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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi I'm new here and looking for what seems to be a common question/problem my 09 6.1 srt8 charger on start up runs rough at 1200rpm settles down to 600rpm but when stopped will run rough at 600 rpm or miss, this seems like a common problem, but I have yet to read any fixes that smooth it out. am I missing something? 80K on it, I have read tones of guesses but nobody saying they solved the problem everything from plugs and wires to new Throttle Body, to loose torque converter, and low octane gas, I use 93, with such a common problem I would think someone has figured it out but I cant seem to find an answer, any help welcome
 

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Hi AMC 13 - couple questions first, did you buy car new or used ? and has there been or is their a tune on it now ? did you buy it privately or through dealer? You run 93 Octane great, caution. from 1 fellow Canadian to another watch what gas you buy, Shell does not use ethanol in their gas which is a detergent which causes film carbon build up Petro Can is worst gas. But they now started selling a 94 octane which you will feel with a press of the pedal. but the gas eats seals gaskets and gums things up.

Spark plugs should be Platinum tip and gap is 50 thous. 16 plugs, do not skimp on them wrong place to save a buck. Dealer plugs are pricey 15.00 each. but are correct and pre gap set. your at 70 thous km or miles ? I just changed my plugs at 30,000 km and the old plugs have no wear on gap tip what so ever so platinum will last a long time but may require periodic inspection. maybe 1 on each bank. and the plug colour should be a burnt tan on the porcelain if you have a black plug it has fowled and needs cleaning or replacing. only change bad plugs as needed, I checked all gaps on my car and left them in. also when replacing any plug or bolt put a little anti seize dope on the threads so they do not seize and snap off in the future, I use it on all threaded parts, also use dialectic grease on all electrical connections and inside spark plug boots to prevent moisture and shorting. Next check to see if you hear a vacuum leak under the hood. if so push the rubber hose on further or clamp.
Next take a 10mm socket and snug up the 8 intake manifold bolds to heads. they do come loose. breather clean or replace. oil is it clear see through or dark can't see through.

do you have any trouble codes or engine light on. I will take you further on your next post
 

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Thank you 3 G Bee
I just got the car last week, it ten fine when I bought it, it must have been warm every time I drove it, the car had 2 previous owners, after a week of owning it I discovered the miss, I bought it privately so no real recourse, the car is mint other than the rough cold start and random miss at the stop light, I've only run one tank of 93 though it so far I think the kid that had it before me used cheap gas, I will check the manifold bolts tonight and I ordered the plugs will have them tomorrow, the car runs great when warm or over 1k and love it so hope this is not a major fix
 

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Good to hear, I happened to be viewing thread and noticed you were ignored and thought I might be of help. Before you go spending money on after market parts make sure you have a decent DTC Scan tool, saves lots of head aches. Auto source has the Innova 3130e for about 300.00 covers everything but internal transmission however you can buy trans coder on line and down load to scan tool. 30 buck. they are a must have. The cars are great vehicles but government emission regulations are getting in the way of our freedoms.

Just another heads up before you have to renew your license plates always check to insure you have no fault codes showing and also disconnect battery the day before emission test for about 10 minutes. then reset your window express up, sun roof, functions. The reason for this is our vehicles store soft fault codes that do not trigger engine lights or DTC's but like the issue with going into limp mode after gas pedal to floor and throttle dies stores the soft fault for gear ratio error that is blind to us, and disconnecting the battery and driving the car a little clears the soft fault memory. Cost me an additional 17.00 for emission test fail to find that out. I tell everyone I know about this because our Governments department of motor vehicles likes to set regulation and rip us all off. They are even looking at the TPM tire pressure monitoring system. Stating that under inflated tires result in additional fuel consumption thereby emitting more air pollution. yet the TPMs are only expected to last 3 to 7 years. But the real reason for this is they changed the rubber composite of the tires because they are cheaper to manufacture and now require 10 additional PSI per tire to fill and tires don't last long.
 

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just unbolt the valve covers if you think that is your problem you will easily see it, lots of noise the car would be running like crap, constant miss no power acceleration, and should show emission code faults.
 
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