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Discussion Starter #1
Currently my AC is blowing cool on driver's side and cold on passenger's side. While driving the driver's side becomes cooler, but still not as cold as the passenger's side. I have a dual AC system.

I have replaced the condenser, driver's actuator door, expansion valve, cabin air filter, also evacuated and recharged my system. Im all out of ideas. What can I do to fix this issue?
 

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Is the driver side cool air when the AC is in Auto Mode or also when in Manual Mode (Auto Mode Off)? In Auto Mode there are several sensors that adjust the AC for the driver/passenger side. In Manual Mode the AC continues to run for both driver/passenger until you shut it Off or manually adjust the fan/temp controls.
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Discussion Starter #3
Its in cool as long as I have the temperature to cool/cold in manual mode. I rarely use auto mode. But the problem is that I had a mechanic to change the blend actuator door on the driver's side. He did not have the specific software that the dealership has and he didn't delete the code. Could that be an issue? Does it need to be re calibrated by software? He re calibrated the door by hand. Then I took it too the dealer where they diagnosed a bad blend door actuator. Of course they want to change to replace the whole door instead of calibrating it. I found out about calibrating through this site on older post.
 

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When replacing the actuator or door there's a calibration diagnostic that calibrates and positions the door in the proper position. Your diagnostic code could be because it was not cleared after repair or it could be a current code because blend door positioning is not correct; needs calibrating.

The blend door actuator moves the blend-air door in two directions. When the A/C-heater control pulls the voltage on one side of the motor connection high and the other connection low, the blend-air door will move in one direction. When the A/C-heater control reverses the polarity of the voltage to the motor, the blend-air door moves in the opposite direction. When the A/C-heater control makes the voltage to both connections high or both connections low, the blend-air door stops and will not move.

On ATC (auto temp control) equipped vehicles, the A/C-heater control uses a pulse-count positioning system to monitor the operation and relative position of the blend door actuators and the blend-air doors. The A/C-heater control learns the blend-air doors stop positions during the calibration procedure and logs a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) for any problems it detects in the blend door actuator circuits.

If you have a scanner that can read all codes (not just Pxxxx Powertrain codes) you look to see what codes are logged (HVAC codes are Bxxxx Body codes). You can clear the logs to see which codes return. If the dealership diagnosed the problem as a bad actuator you do not need the door replaced. The actuator and door are two separate parts; and the actuator is the easier part to replace.
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Discussion Starter #5
I have a scanner but its one of those cheap ones from Wal-Mart. My car has been customized with an alarm system which moved my connection for the ob2 scanner under the dash. The dealership wanted to repair the upper actuator. Not the actual door. They said it would cost 440 dollars which I do not know if thats reasonable. Im sorry if my terminology is bad because im not as good with cars. Do you recommend me letting them fix it or do you thing its another issue? If so, what is my repercussion if that does not actually fix my issue, or do I have to just pay more to get something else fixed if that is not the issue?
 

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Having the dealership do the repair has the advantage of them running diagnostics, verifying the repair and performing the Actuator Calibration. Dealerships also provide 12 month parts & labor warranty on their repairs. Downside? The cost. $440.00 seems high to me. Dealership replaced my blend-door actuator a few years at the cost of $204.05 (including tax). The part was $40.75 and the labor was $160.00 I know labor rates may have increased over the last few years but I don't think they have doubled. I would ask the dealership for a breakdown of the itemized cost for parts & labor.
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Discussion Starter #7
Okay so update. I had the dealer put a new actuator and re-calibrate the part, but it is still having the same issue. The dealer is claiming that it is something else an it can be a door around the evaporator. I don't know too much about the evaporator and they said they need to run more test and its already costing an arm and a leg.
 

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Evaporator explanation (refer to image below) ...
The heating and A/C system pulls outside (ambient) air through the fresh air intake (4) located at the cowl panel at the base of the windshield and into the air inlet housing above the Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) housing and passes through the A/C evaporator (7). Air flow is then directed either through or around the heater core (2). This is done by adjusting the position of the blend-air doors (3) with the temperature controls on the switchbank or the U-Connect Touch ™ screen module. Air flow is then directed out the floor outlet (8), instrument panel outlet (10) or the defroster outlet (1) in various combinations by adjusting the position of the mode-air doors (9 and 11) using the mode controls on the switchbank or the U-Connect Touch ™ screen module. The temperature and mode controls use electrical actuators to operated the air doors.
The fresh air intake can be shut off by pressing the Recirculation button on the switchbank or the U-Connect Touch ™ screen module. This will operate the electrically actuated recirculation-air door (5), which closes off the fresh air intake. With the fresh air intake closed, the conditioned air within the vehicle is pulled back into the HVAC housing through the recirculation air intake (6).
The A/C system uses an A/C expansion valve to meter the flow of refrigerant to the A/C evaporator. To maintain minimum evaporator temperature and prevent evaporator freezing, an evaporator temperature sensor input is supplied to the A/C heater module. In turn, the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) cycles the A/C clutch on and off as necessary to optimize A/C system performance and to protect the A/C system from evaporator freezing.
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Discussion Starter #9
Could the evaporator be an issue for the ac to blow cool and not cold on one side? And what else possibly could it be?
 

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Could the evaporator be an issue for the ac to blow cool and not cold on one side? And what else possibly could it be?
Yes, I went thru that last year, freon was low and the evaporator was leaking. Had cool air on the driver side and warm air on the passenger side. That was in my 2011 Charger and it was not a cheap repair.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Update: I just schedule to get my car from the dealer because they said it would cost almost $1300 to pull the dash and look smh. My dad said he had an issue with a different car where a napkin flew in from the glove compartment into one of the vents. I honestly do not know what is actually blocking my vent from releasing its full ac.
 
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