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Discussion Starter #1
2013 Charger SXT AWD, CEL came on the day after getting the oil changed at Jiffy Lube.
Coincidence, I do not know, but figured they used the incorrect oil.

Checking the EVIC I see the oil pressure stays at 90 psi even with the engine off. Checking the code P0520 it sounds like I need a new sender switch.

Doing some internet searches I find that the switch is located under the intake manifold. No problem as I was an automotive tech in my earlier days. Just the same I figured let me call the dealer and get a price.
You could have floored me when I was told $685 for the job. The breakdown was 200 parts (switch and intake gaskets) and the rest labor (2.5 hrs).

Further searches show that this is not an uncommon problem with the oil pressure switches used by FCA to fail prematurely.

I am a bit hesitant using OEM as some have complained of failure in 1500 miles. I see the last 2 letters of the part number has changed from AA to AB. Has this part been made better?

Looking at different auto stores I am seeing some questionable reviews of some of the aftermarket switches as well.

Is there anyone here in the business that can recommend a specific brand?
 

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Common issue, my '13 van with the pentastar had one replaced in 2014 at 7k miles.
Threw P0520 also, it was stuck on 99psi.
Dealer used OEM of course (not sure if it was AA or AB ), got 75k on the van now, no issues.
I could have done it myself but since it was warranty no point in that.
You have to remove both upper and lower intakes to get to the oil cooler, not really that difficult though.
I had the upper intake off for plugs and that was pretty straightforward.
You can get the OEM switch and the fel-pro set of 12 gaskets for under $100, then a few hrs of your time.
My charger has 47k on it but haven't had this issue yet.
I'm curious to see if anyone has had good luck with non-OEM.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
This morning I went to a different dealer and picked up the required parts. just over 100 dollars in parts.

I must say that I was not looking forward to doing this as I have not been a mechanic for about 25 years, this predates OBD2.

I would do some work only on my own cars over the years until age-related issues set in. If this required getting under the car I would have had to pay to have it done. Better yet I would have traded in for the new Charger had they not changed the headlight design. I prefer the look of the 2013 :D

I started the timer on my phone and casually inspected and removed the required brackets and fittings. At 37 minutes had the upper and lower intake off, cleaned.
I took a 15-minute break and then proceded to reassemble.
31 minutes later the engine was running. 1 hour 23 minutes including the break. No power tools were used. Seriously!

I am not bragging, and will probably pay the price tonight in being sore.

It just blows my mind is that the dealership could possibly quote this job out at $685 at 2.5 hours and 200 in parts.

Side note, One lower intake screw was loose/ not properly torqued from the factory. The electrical connector for the sender did not have the red safety lock. Maybe the car was built on a Monday?

Thank you for your input, hopefully, I will get 75k out of this sender without issue. :rolleyes:
 

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Nice job.
1 1/2 hrs sounds about right, jut need some basic tools and a torque wrench.
Maybe 2-1/2 hrs for the guy who sweeps the floor to give it a go...
I think some guys get intimidated by having to remove the intakes, but it pretty cut & dry.
The oil temp sensor which you probably unplugged to gain access has a red safety lock, the oil pressure sensor doesn't.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The oil temp sensor which you probably unplugged to gain access has a red safety lock, the oil pressure sensor doesn't.
Good to know about the oil pressure sender not having the red safety lock. I was thinking someone at the factory missed it.

Thanks for the help!
 
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