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I recently bought a 2011 Charger and got my two 12 inch subs put it and got some new 6x9 speakers in the front doors. The problem I'm having is that the door speakers are only playing bass and I purchased these speakers in the hopes that it could boost my highs/vocals. The car audio shop that did the job said that the door speakers are designed to play the lows/bass from the factory. The guy told me that to get it to play full range I would need an Amp and some sort of wiring harness. It sounded like he said an "AP4 harness" but I'm not positive. I don't mind buying a small Amp or something but must I get this wiring harness as well to get the speakers to play properly. If so, how much does something like that cost? I'm new to all of this and I'm just trying to find the simplest way to get these speakers working. Thanks for any help
 

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6x9”s are for the mid and lows but won’t hit a hz level as low as a sub will. Now if you got 2 or 3 way 6x9”s then there should be some higher mid and high range hz there unless there’s a factory bypass but I have no idea if that’s the case.
 

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Did you ever figure out what to do? I have a 2011 charger se and I just installed 6x9 3 way speakers in my front doors but just bass is coming out I’m also trying to install a sub which is in my trunk but I do not know where to plug in any of the wires.
 

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I heard of these but never had to use them. I don’t know if 2010 is that different, but my new 6x9’s sound great, they had now highs before.
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6x9s in the doors are only receiving mid-bass (100-300hz).
Options
1. Upgrade doors with CDT 6x9 mid-bass drivers and upgrade 3.5s in dash
2. Take full range signal from rear 6x9s and run through amp to power front speakers at full range. You could even use components with woofer in door, tweeter in dash with 3.5”—>tweeter adapter. Fade would be useless.
3. Use a AudioControl 5-7channel LOC to sum the dash and door signals together and get full range, can run components like option 2. Fade still functional but more expensive option.
4. Use a PAC harness or equivalent to tap into the full range signal before the factory amp and run that through an aftermarket amp.

I went with option 1 in my 12 RT with 10 speaker Alpine.
CDT HD-690S in doors with bridged 4 channel amp
JBL 3.5” speakers in dash (3) and rear doors running off factory amp
Removed rear 6x9s and 8”
15” Sundown SA-15 in trunk
 

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Someone correct me if I’m wrong but you would need a sound amp/sound processor to bypass that factory freq setting. Personally, I got the Rockford DSR1. It’s an amp and sound processor in one device. Getting a harness makes for an easy plug in installation so you don’t have to cut wires.
A new DSR1 runs for about $260 and about $40 for the T harness. It’s pricy but worth it.
 

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No need to bypass the factory frequency settings. Run mid-range/highs in the dash (above 300hz), mid-bass in doors (100-300hz) and bass in the trunk (80hz and below).
 
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