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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey dodge charger team! Hope you all are doing well, thanks for having me here, straight to the topic, I'm interested in owning a 2007 dodge charger R/T, This car has a SALVAGE TITLE! here in my location, before ending the deal, I really want to make sure that I'm getting a good reliable car for what I pay, I want to know that what I should be looking for when purchasing this dodge charger, anything to take into consideration, what to look for or any suggestion you guys have, please share it with me,

They are asking for the price of $7,500 and it has 165000 Miles with a Salvage Title. Is it worth it or not?
If you guys have any suggestions on what to look at.
thanks

UPDATE
Thanks for everyone comments, I've gone through everyone comments
Thank you all for your contribution to this post, I have been wary of buying this vehicle, and on further research, I decided to run the VIN CHECK confirmed my fears.

this is exactly what I was trying to {do/avoid}. Imagine if I did not make this research I would have ended up vehicle having the wrong spec, not friendly to climate, high fuel consumption, High MRSP, etc, please have a look at the report (It's only $15 if you guys don't want to spend $40 for a Carfax)

Here is the link to the report: https://app.detailedvehiclehistory.com/report/vin/2B3KA53H47H745443






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Sometimes with a salvage deal can get you a great car if you are planning on keeping it for a long time. Sometimes it can turn to crap in a few months. Looks good from the Pics but I would take it to a reliable mechanic to get it checked out. You did not mention why it has a salvage title. Important stuff. Was it totaled, front end, rear end, side? Water damaged? Price seems high for a salvage title no matter what work was done.
 
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Need to know why it's got a salvage title. Also i see there's damage to the bottom of the drivers door and rocker. The market is still screwy but I agree with tacamo the price seems high but maybe not being a Daytona?
 

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Last input I forgot about (If the OP returns) is collision. It is not uncommon for a mechanic to say the car is mechanically sound and then find out later that there was frame damage. Assuming the car was in an accident and totaled.
 
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Seems WAY overpriced. As ktlevy points out, high, even for one in "good" condition. If it was a flood vehicle, you can expect to see all kinds of electrical gremlins with corroded connections. Ones not in a flood have enough issues. If you do decide to offer them something way less, like $4K - $5K, be sure to have a good mechanic check it out, paying close attention to WHY it was a salvage (collision, flood, etc.).
 

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Paint can hide a multitude of sins. Salvage title can mean a lot of things and varies depending on the insurance company that paid off on it. It should have a "rebuilt" title in order to be registered and driven. If its still "salvage", you will have to get it inspected yourself before getting it changed to "rebuilt" so it can be driven. If this is the case, I'd walk away at any price. There are a lot of scammers out there that will "clone" a high end version of the car. They'll buy/steal emblems from a wrecked car and put them on a generic version.
I would verify the VIN on the dash matches the VIN on the door. Then call a dealer and verify it's actually a "Daytona" VIN. Usually, special editions get special VIN #'s.
A lot of the times you can put the VIN in GOOGLE and find evidence of a salvage auction sale with pictures and description of the damage. Check out Poctra. Carfax and other background companies can give dates and descriptions of damages. Some offer 5 searches for $20-30
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
UPDATE
Thanks for everyone comments, I've gone through everyone comments
Thank you all for your contribution to this post, I have been wary of buying this vehicle, and on further research, I decided to run the VIN CHECK confirmed my fears.

this is exactly what I was trying to {do/avoid}. Imagine if I did not make this research I would have ended up vehicle having the wrong spec, not friendly to climate, high fuel consumption, High MRSP, etc, please have a look at the report (It's only $15 if you guys don't want to spend $40 for a Carfax)

Here is the link to the report: https://app.detailedvehiclehistory.com/report/vin/2B3KA53H47H745443
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This is the second post you've made like this with the exact same wording.
You seem to be to be the proverbial tite kicker every seller/one hates. Wanting a brand new car for $1000. Then if any little thing goes wrong, you dont like color or your race car doesnt get 50mpg, the seller ripped you off.
Go buy a brand new car and leave everyone else alone. There are enough butt heads in this world as it is.
This looks more like propaganda than anything.
 

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If it's the typical price of a Daytona it's not worth it with a salvage title.
I googled the vin and theres a picture of the hit in the rear. There's a gap on the passenger side but that might have been from damage to the trunk lid. So look at the car and see if the damage is still there under the bumper and in the trunk. Maybe they only threw new parts on it.
If you want it figure out what it's worth to you.
 
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