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They called me back saying they found one at another dealer and sent a driver to pick me up.
P/N indicates its a re-manufactured unit.


the_alternator.jpg


Alternator
• 180 Amp/12 Volt, CW, 6-Groove Clutch Pulley
• Alternator - For Denso Hairpin ED/IF
• Remanufactured
• Replaces -
Chrysler 04801833AB, 4801833AB, P04801833AB
Denso 421000-702, 421000-7020, 421000-7021, TN421000-7021
Lester 11575, 11575R, 11575N
1 Year Warranty
Applications

Chrysler Car
300 V8 5.7L 345cid 2011-2016
300 V8 5.7L 5654cc 345cid 2012-2013

Dodge Car
Challenger V8 5.7L 345cid 2015-2016
Charger V8 5.7L 345cid 2011-2016
Charger V8 5.7L 5654cc 345cid 2011-2012

Dodge Truck
Durango V8 5.7L 345cid 2012-2016
Durango V8 5.7L 345cid VIN T 2011
Durango V8 5.7L 5654cc 345cid 2012-2013

Jeep Truck
Grand Cherokee V8 5.7L 345cid 2012-2016
Grand Cherokee V8 5.7L 345cid VIN T 2011
Grand Cherokee V8 5.7L 5654cc 345cid 2012-2013
Grand Cherokee V8 5.7L 5654cc 345cid VIN T 2011
 

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so I just got the recall done. I notice on the highway a whining sound. What gives ? Also am noticing some noise from the power steering taking low speed turns. Paranoid? coincidence? Any input would be great.
 

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Sorry for the thread resurrection, but I thought I'd post here. I got in my 2012 Charger RT today and went to start it. I got the message that said the key fob was not nearby. It was, so I changed the battery in the fob just to be safe. That didn't help either, so I went and got the other fob. No dice on that either.

My wife did some Googling and read that if you push the fob into the push button that might fix it. Well, that did allow it to go into 'acc' and 'on', but then the screen just started flashing and going off and on like there was an electrical issue. Feeling lost I figured I'd try to jump the thing. Crap! How do you put the thing in neutral? I read about the override and was able to back it down the driveway enough to jump-start it with my wife's vehicle.

Two dealers later (first once couldn't see me) they replace the alternator due to the recall and say the battery tests fine. The dealer still thinks the battery isn't 100%, but I guess this serves me right for putting off the recall. However, the messages you receive with a dead battery are less than intuitive.
 

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I haven't heard about the bypass or pushing the fob on the button Can you elaborate on them a little?
Also, be careful jumping them off, myself and a friend lost Bluetooth modules and we were careful.. I think if I had to again I would connect and let it charge a little before firing it up.
I finally replaced the battery with a police sized AGM. I got the hold-down for $11.00 at the dealer
 

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I haven't heard about the bypass or pushing the fob on the button Can you elaborate on them a little?
Also, be careful jumping them off, myself and a friend lost Bluetooth modules and we were careful.. I think if I had to again I would connect and let it charge a little before firing it up.
I finally replaced the battery with a police sized AGM. I got the hold-down for $11.00 at the dealer
I let the it charge for several minutes before starting the car. It actually took several attempts to build up charge. Pushing the fob on the button got it to go to 'acc' and 'on', whereas not doing so would never take it off 'off'. The 'bypass' is just to allow you to shift the car in neutral. To the right of the shifter is a plastic/rubber rectangular tray about the size of a cell phone. Pop the insert out and you'll see a red plastic piece thru a cut-out. Take a flat-head screwdriver, allen-head, etc. and push down on that red piece while holding the brake down. This will allow you to shift out of park into neutral. That's the only way to do it if your car won't start that I know of.

It's crazy really. I know cars are usually bricks when the battery is dead. However, the push-button and lack of a key makes it even worse. At least you can put a non-push start car into neutral if the battery is dead without having to search for shift bypasses. My battery is still good, or at least tested ok after they replaced the alternator. It's still the original battery, which is pretty impressive really seeing that it's 6 years old at this point. I think the trunk location helps with the longevity.

What exactly is a "police sized AGM?" I'm guessing a really big battery that helps run all the extra equipment in the LEO vehicles?
 

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I let the it charge for several minutes before starting the car. It actually took several attempts to build up charge. Pushing the fob on the button got it to go to 'acc' and 'on', whereas not doing so would never take it off 'off'. The 'bypass' is just to allow you to shift the car in neutral. To the right of the shifter is a plastic/rubber rectangular tray about the size of a cell phone. Pop the insert out and you'll see a red plastic piece thru a cut-out. Take a flat-head screwdriver, allen-head, etc. and push down on that red piece while holding the brake down. This will allow you to shift out of park into neutral. That's the only way to do it if your car won't start that I know of.

It's crazy really. I know cars are usually bricks when the battery is dead. However, the push-button and lack of a key makes it even worse. At least you can put a non-push start car into neutral if the battery is dead without having to search for shift bypasses. My battery is still good, or at least tested ok after they replaced the alternator. It's still the original battery, which is pretty impressive really seeing that it's 6 years old at this point. I think the trunk location helps with the longevity.

What exactly is a "police sized AGM?" I'm guessing a really big battery that helps run all the extra equipment in the LEO vehicles?
Yes a little longer. I run a dash cam in parking mode and it helps Mine a 2013 was OK but I changed it before it demand it.
 

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Dodgy has a lot of parasitic draw even after most of the modules go to sleep
Interesting, My 2013 has almost zero parasitic draw, its one of the first things I looked at comparing it to my 2005 Silverado which is near the max (so-called) acceptable draw of 50milliamps being 40milliamps.

I couldn't believe it at first. I left it on the cable with the trunk lid open and after everything times out its .01milliamps. I even did it on both the + & - sides in the trunk and under the hod to satisfy my disbelief.

I used the same amp meter on both vehicles. A pretty handy little item get into tight spots when your looking for trouble on a vehicle. The GTC CM100
 

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They called me back saying they found one at another dealer and sent a driver to pick me up.
P/N indicates its a re-manufactured unit.


View attachment 83519

Alternator
• 180 Amp/12 Volt, CW, 6-Groove Clutch Pulley
• Alternator - For Denso Hairpin ED/IF
• Remanufactured
• Replaces -
Chrysler 04801833AB, 4801833AB, P04801833AB
Denso 421000-702, 421000-7020, 421000-7021, TN421000-7021
Lester 11575, 11575R, 11575N
1 Year Warranty
Applications

Chrysler Car
300 V8 5.7L 345cid 2011-2016
300 V8 5.7L 5654cc 345cid 2012-2013

Dodge Car
Challenger V8 5.7L 345cid 2015-2016
Charger V8 5.7L 345cid 2011-2016
Charger V8 5.7L 5654cc 345cid 2011-2012

Dodge Truck
Durango V8 5.7L 345cid 2012-2016
Durango V8 5.7L 345cid VIN T 2011
Durango V8 5.7L 5654cc 345cid 2012-2013

Jeep Truck
Grand Cherokee V8 5.7L 345cid 2012-2016
Grand Cherokee V8 5.7L 345cid VIN T 2011
Grand Cherokee V8 5.7L 5654cc 345cid 2012-2013
Grand Cherokee V8 5.7L 5654cc 345cid VIN T 2011
Got a question about this - I had an alternator replaced in April 2019 and the one the put in was part number - 4801833AB.

it seems that my problems are alternator related but the Dealership insists it is good. Not only this but they replaced a 220amp with a 180amp. I keep having engine light come on, car is riding rough (especially in the 60 - 70mph range and then smooths out). I have an electrical issue. Also my windows are going down when car is off and locks up/down and lights on after car is off. Thoughts???
 

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4801833AB is a valid PN for the 5.7L Hemi. It may depend on the model year but the Charger RT came from the factory with an optional 180A alternator; it may be standard in the newest model years. Pursuit Chargers came with 220A alternators. You can see what came from the factory with your car by linking to the following website ... FCA RAM

For diagnosing your problems, plug a OBD2/CAN scanner into the car's OBD2 port and see what diagnostic codes are being logged. Use a scanner that can read all codes (not just powertrain codes). If you're having electrical problems the codes being logged may be chassis & body codes.
.
 

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4801833AB is a valid PN for the 5.7L Hemi. It may depend on the model year but the Charger RT came from the factory with an optional 180A alternator; it may be standard in the newest model years. Pursuit Chargers came with 220A alternators. You can see what came from the factory with your car by linking to the following website ... FCA RAM

For diagnosing your problems, plug a OBD2/CAN scanner into the car's OBD2 port and see what diagnostic codes are being logged. Use a scanner that can read all codes (not just powertrain codes). If you're having electrical problems the codes being logged may be chassis & body codes.
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I understand what you are saying but what I’m asking is - the part was put in my vehicle in April 2019 4801833AB and it looks like that part number is part of a recall from a couple years ago. Does that mean I have a faulty alternator!?
 

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The recall I'm aware of was for the diode thermal fatigue problem. Alternators other than 421000-0801, 421000-7021, 421000-7041, 421000-7042, 421000-7051, or 421000-7052 were replaced. The alternator being replaced was returned to the MOPAR Core Return Center for core credit. I imagine the returned alternators were remanufactured and released to parts stock with a new part number. I don't know what the new part number is though.
119226

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