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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I got some dynamat on the way in the mail and was wondering if anyone has pulled the trunk lid liner? I was looking at it today and it's not as straight forward as I originally thought it was going to be.. there is that stupid emergency trunk release and those henge covers.. I see how to get the henge covers off but the trunk release handle seems like it is going to be a PITA.. also is it held up with just those trim clips and the henge covers or is it glued/ double sided taped up too? :4-dontknow:
 

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You won't need to do that area, you can cut around it. I have Dynamated plenty of vehicles at the shop. You can leave that area alone, it won't make a difference in the muffling process. You're main goal is going to be the bottom of the trunk, and the sides, and lid. The latch and ER release area can be avoided.

Also, when you need to use multiple pieces, do not butt them up against each other, you overlap the pieces. You should overlap by a half inch, no less than a quarter inch.

You'll need a roller and a 1-2" wide pry-bar, or like a 1 - 2" hard plastic putty knife to roll, and squeegee/press the dynamat down.

IF you happen to break or split a piece, when doing a seam, or dip, or something, just cut another piece that overlaps each side of the broken/split area, and roll or squeegee it on.

Did you get the Lite or Xtreme?

I have been doing this n ow for a long time, and are now damn good at it. I will be doing a viper and SSR interior this summer, more than likely. I have done an H2, an entire 2007 Dakota, 2006 Jeep Liberty, Viper Trunk, and more. The Dakota and H2 interiors are completely dynamated, that also includes the door skin, vapor barrier, and door covers. It adds almost 150bs of weight to the vehicle, and perhaps more. The doors are lite, the floors, pillars, foot-well, and roofs are Xtreme.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You won't need to do that area, you can cut around it. I have Dynamated plenty of vehicles at the shop. You can leave that area alone, it won't make a difference in the muffling process. You're main goal is going to be the bottom of the trunk, and the sides, and lid. The latch and ER release area can be avoided.

Also, when you need to use multiple pieces, do not butt them up against each other, you overlap the pieces. You should overlap by a half inch, no less than a quarter inch.

You'll need a roller and a 1-2" wide pry-bar, or like a 1 - 2" hard plastic putty knife to roll, and squeegee/press the dynamat down.

IF you happen to break or split a piece, when doing a seam, or dip, or something, just cut another piece that overlaps each side of the broken/split area, and roll or squeegee it on.

Did you get the Lite or Xtreme?

I have been doing this n ow for a long time, and are now damn good at it. I will be doing a viper and SSR interior this summer, more than likely. I have done an H2, an entire 2007 Dakota, 2006 Jeep Liberty, Viper Trunk, and more. The Dakota and H2 interiors are completely dynamated, that also includes the door skin, vapor barrier, and door covers. It adds almost 150bs of weight to the vehicle, and perhaps more. The doors are lite, the floors, pillars, foot-well, and roofs are Xtreme.

I got Xtreme.. I've matted a trunk before but it never had a stock lid liner.. I'm just looking to help with the rattle of my spoiler.. the thing basically liquefies with the one 12 I have... and I might throw a bit in the rear deck around the 6x9s and over the old sub cutout.. and a small piece on the back of the license plate.. can't really/don't want to do the trunk floor because the battery access door and storage.. might one day do inside the rear quarter panels but probably not.. not in any sound comps or anything :D

got the roller and the dynamat tape also :TU:

I never knew about the overlapping bit though.. thank you!
 

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I pulled it when I removed my center light to try to tint the thing (fail!).

I don't really remember doing it, which leads me to believe it wasn't that bad?

I want to say there were some clips around the edges, and you have to unscrew the covers and the closure handle. But once you unscrew that stuff, it was pretty easy I think.


I hope that helps!
 

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pulled mine out to install backup cam just remove all the tabs from around the perimeter that you see, pull out and remove the handle theirs a tab hidden behind it you don't have to remove the hinge cover the liner just slides in behind them then it will pull right out just have to slide the cover back under the hinge covers good luck hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Alright cool thanks guys... got my dynamat today so I should be getting this done soon!
 
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