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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2012 Dodge Charger R/T
Rear Power Distribution Center
Fuse #23
0.300 Amps while off

Does anyone know what components are on a particular fuse circuit (Fuse #23, Rear Power Distribution Center)?

I've been having trouble with my battery draining, and I think I have narrowed it down to Fuse #23 in the Rear Power Distribution Center. With the car off for about 5 minutes, the amp meter reads about 0.300 Amps.

If I pull Fuse #23 in the Rear Power Distribution Center, the amperage goes to 0 Amps.

The Fuse diagram shows Fuel Door\Diagnostic Port. I've disconnected the Fuel Door electrical connection (with fuse #23 in), but have no change in the current draw.

I'm not sure how to disconnect the Diagnostic Port (if that is possible).

I also don't know what else might be on that same circuit to be able to disconnect.

Does anyone have circuit diagrams of what would be on that same Fuse #23?


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Shot in the dark because I don’t know all the priors apart from what you stated.
1. How old is the battery? Could be that there is not enough amperage to click a relay or keep a circuit closed.

2. Did you try replacing the fuse?

3. Any hard bumps or accidents that could have messed with wiring ?

4. Does the gas door indicator come up when its open?

Even if voltage is good on the battery the amperage can be too low to run everything.

Just my 2 cents.

Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Do you have anything at all, like a Tazer or other device, plugged into your OBD port?
Nothing plugged into the OBD port.

I think I may have found the problem. My Bluetooth died years ago. I've unplugged the hands free module and the current seems to be zero. I still have to verify that this continues to be the case. I will provide an update after driving and letting it sit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I think I may have found the problem. My Bluetooth died years ago. I've unplugged the hands free module and the current seems to be zero. I still have to verify that this continues to be the case. I will provide an update after driving and letting it sit.

Shot in the dark because I don’t know all the priors apart from what you stated.
1. How old is the battery? Could be that there is not enough amperage to click a relay or keep a circuit closed.
Battery is about 1 year. I'll have the battery tested.

2. Did you try replacing the fuse?
I didn't, but will try that.

3. Any hard bumps or accidents that could have messed with wiring ?
Rear ended cosmetic damage, also hit deep water during rainstorm that pulled out one of the splash guards. Will check those areas for damaged wires.

4. Does the gas door indicator come up when its open?
I'll check that.

Even if voltage is good on the battery the amperage can be too low to run everything.
Good point. I tend to only think of the battery amperage if it isn't able to start.

Just my 2 cents.

Good luck
 

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With the car off for about 5 minutes, the amp meter reads about 0.300 Amps.
When performing the IOD (ignition Off draw) test, allow enough time for the electronic timers to shut off (time out). This may take up to ten minutes. 10 minutes versus 5 minutes may not change your test results but 10 minutes is the recommended amount of time.
I've unplugged the hands free module and the current seems to be zero
Fuse #23 does connect to the Bluetooth (HFM - hands free module)

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'll be sure to give it at least 10 minutes from now on. Good info, thanks!

Thanks for verifying that! Since it was next to the ODB port, and broken I was just taking a guess that it was on the same circuit.

Is more of the circuit diagram available online somewhere?

When performing the IOD (ignition Off draw) test, allow enough time for the electronic timers to shut off (time out). This may take up to ten minutes. 10 minutes versus 5 minutes may not change your test results but 10 minutes is the recommended amount of time.

Fuse #23 does connect to the Bluetooth (HFM - hands free module)

View attachment 124271
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So far so good on disconnecting the Hands Free Module as the battery drain culprit. I took the car out for a drive yesterday; checked the battery this morning and it was 12v. I still have more testing to do over a couple days.

My gas door is no longer opening (same circuit), but I may not have reconnected the electrical on that properly (bad angle for me to get at) when I was doing my troubleshooting.

Will send more updates as it did take a couple days for the battery to drain before.
 
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