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A few yes.
Interesting. I don't shy away from high-mileage cars, but I've never bought anything with over 200K. And I'd be really wary of an LX/LD with that kind of mileage, especially an older unit.

My DD/beater is a Toyota Camry with over 250K. It's a "gas and go" car. Rarely have to do a damn thing to it except fluid changes, tires, and brakes. It has the fantastic 2GR-FE V-6, and will absolutely hang on to a stock 5.7 LX/LD Charger's mudflaps, and depending on the Charger's PCM, leave it in the dust when the Charger's top speed limiter kicks in at 128 MPH, or run neck-and-neck with it until they both hit their 145/149 limiters. It easily gets 25 MPG in a mixed driving cycle, and that's old-school, "divide the miles by the gallons", not some comically optimistic number displayed on an EVIC. It's as reliable as the sun in the morning, and the moon at night.

My LX/LD cars, on the other hand, are garage queens. They get driven on nice days and mainly for pleasure use. But boy, are they trouble. They rattle, they squeak, they clunk. Seems like just about anything, including overcast skies, can make them throw a CEL. They have front ends with flimsy, stork-like appendages that make me wonder how they stay together at all, and if you want to align them properly, you have to either hack up your control arms or buy expensive aftermarket parts with proper adjustments. The door panels peel, the radio screens delaminate. Sometimes when I turn the key on an LX, I say a quick prayer that I didn't drop a valve seat last time I shut it down. When I press "start" on my LD, I wonder if this is the day I'm going to wipe out my cam.

But I don't think I've ever turned back to look at my Camry as I'm walking away from it. I've definitely never gotten any compliments on it. And I sure as hell have never had a co-worker burst into the office, saying, "Guys, check out what I just found in the parking garage!" and waving his phone with a picture of my Camry on it, like the first time I drove my Daytona to work.

I guess modern Chargers are not really about basic, reliable, trouble-free transportation, especially as they age. They're rides you have to be passionate about to really enjoy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Well, part of the problem I'm having here is I sold my previous car to buy this one as a daily. The seller of this car was misinformed by the owner prior to him. He was told it had a swapped in 6.1L with 165k. He didn't know how to check that and at the time neither did I. When I test drove the car I had no problems and even after no problems for about 200miles of driving. Rust was repaired on the body, only very minor surface on some spots underneath. Brakes were recently done with bigger ones in the front. I saw it as a good purchase.
Fast forward to when I'm starting to have problems and that's when I found out it's still a 5.7 and assuming it's the original one.
The MDS codes was the start of problems, that happened after I filled the tank with 93 from Cumberland farms and that was after about 200miles of city/hwy driving. By this I mean I drove the car on the gas that was in it till it was around 1/4 and put 93 in it. That whole time it was fine. On the highway heading towards Boston is when the light came on for mds. I decided to get the oil changed and I think that's a normal thing to do when you get a new to you vehicle. Only after changing the MDS solenoids (which was super easy and they came out easy probably bcuz I also learned they were replaced sometime after 2020) and putting everything back together did the misfire start, but also didn't make the MDS codes go away either.
I'm tempted to just unplug the damn MDS harness, I know this will throw a light, but it shouldn't try to use it then, but I might as well wait and get it disabled in the tune.
I just want to know what it is that's wrong so I can fix it or get it fixed and enjoy my car again. There's other things I need to do to it but they aren't as pressing.
I do like it, but it's frustrating to buy a daily driver and then only get to drive it less than 1 week for over a month.
 

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I'm tempted to just unplug the damn MDS harness, I know this will throw a light, but it shouldn't try to use it then, but I might as well wait and get it disabled in the tune.
I just want to know what it is that's wrong so I can fix it or get it fixed and enjoy my car again.
I think you should try to get the compression check done. You could be beating yourself up over a broken valve spring.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
compression check at a place said everything was good, they checked over all i did and said its probably electrical and they dont do electrical.
its at the dealer now for a diag and compression check, confirmed not electrical or ecm. tech said could be valve not sealing or mds lifter pins. technician said probably not worth it if it comes to those as repair requires removing the head and its labor intensive, said i should cut my losses and id probably be chasing problems for as long as i own the car. cutting my losses isnt exactly an option but neither is spending thousands and thousands on it. if its the mds lifter pins would it be worth it to get the mds delete kit w/ tune/oil pump/timing chain and then basically have a refreshed engine?
what do i do? i wouldnt be completely opposed to selling it but i cant sell it for 1000 thats just not enough. realistically 2000-2500 but nobody is gonna pay that in its current state.
 

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You need the results of the compression check. I don't understand why a tech would say that you "probably would be chasing problems for as long as you own the car" if it isn't electrical or PCM related.

A bad "MDS pin" just leads to a permanently collapsed lifter. Replace it, and you're off to the races. Ditto a burned or otherwise damaged valve or broken spring. If there are multiple affected valves or the seats are chewed, get a reman head for $350 or so, or even a clean used head if you want.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
they just called me back. cyl 1 and cyl 4 have compression problems. starts out ok but drops to 30 for both. they are telling me its an internal problem and not the valve or spring. they said replacing both heads isnt worth it for 200k miles and swapping the engine would be better but at least 8k for parts and labor.
 

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they are telling me its an internal problem and not the valve or spring. they said replacing both heads isnt worth it for 200k miles and swapping the engine would be better but at least 8k for parts and labor.
I don't know what this means.

If they mean it's cracked rings or a damaged piston, something like that, replacing the heads, regardless of cost, would not resolve the problem.

If the problem is the valves, springs, or rockers, reman heads would definitely resolve the problem. I put two reman heads on my '07 Daytona in 2021. $600 for the complete heads, about $100 for gaskets and $100 for fluids, etc. Used heads should be considerably cheaper. Putting an $8,000 engine in an first-gen R/T with 200k on it is ludicrous.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
thats just what they told me, they said its not worth doing an engine swap either. ill have the write up for it monday, maybe it will be more clear. i did a quick google search for heads and i got everything from 200 to 1000 each, depends if used or reman or performance. i dont know what kind of work is involved in replacing them, but its beyond my skillset so id have to have a shop do them. if its just a head replacement and a shop can do it and prices arent ridiculous, then i may be able to get that done. thats a lot of "ifs" though. then theres the rest of the work to get done, including the clunk going over bumps which i was thinking was a swaybar bushing or something, but didnt have it driving properly long enough to find out. or, it might be better to put it up for sale whole for parts or something, maybe somebody will want it? i really dont know, but driving this minivan is making me go crazy
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
dealership put the car back together, picking it up fri.
cyl 1 and 4 are the problems, they said it looks to be a spring on cyl 4 but cyl 1 seems internal and not head replacement related. not spring or rocker or valve for that one.
ive learned my lesson here: i rushed into buying a car that i should have waited and did more research on, and im in it for roughly $4000 and will most likely be trying to sell whole for parts/repair as i dont have the space or time to do a part out.
 
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