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2009 Dodge Charger SE 2.7L V6 - 98,000 Miles
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2009 2.7l v6 Charger. I had a little misfire in cylinder three for a while so I changed the Plugs, Coils, removed the fuel rail + Injectors and cleaned them thoroughly with a battery and carb cleaner. Before I did this job I just had the misfire code and the tire pressure light and the car ran almost perfectly sounding but just had a rough idle, and I especially noticed the idle would be a little more rough if I had been driving the car to operating temperature and then turned it off and tried to restart it again soon after.I assume The tire light might have something to do with me getting new tires recently. Anyways after I changed The plugs coils and reinstalled cleaned injectors and throttle body which I had cleaned as well, The car now runs horribly and has very low feeling power it stalls out while driving. Me and my family got a premium scanner it reads. P1128, P1129, C1502 after I cleared the codes. Before it also showed B2104 but after I cleared the codes and ran the car it didn’t come back. I will take any advice at what parts to start changing first I have a $700 ex tool scanner let me know how I can use it most effectively if you know thank you all!

Parts I changed new within last 1.5 years: Alternator OEM, Battery, Starter, Water pump, thermostat, Timing chain kit, Tires, brake pads, ignition coils, spark plugs, and changed Orings and gaskets on everything I removed except EGR
(cleaned injectors) (cleaned throttle body)
(Cleaned plastic upper intake manifold)
 

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C1502: tire pressure sensor, more than likely, the tire shop damaged one of them. I'd hit them back up on it. Theres a procedure for changing tires with sensors. Walmart will check them for free and tell you which one is bad. They also sell them but they are $35 each. You can buy all 4 for a few dollars more on ebay. It doesnt really matter what dodge/chrysler you get them for but they gave to be 433mhz. 314mhz is the other option and is wrong for this car.
The other codes are for the engine not warming up fast enough. I'm guessing you didn't plug the coolant temp sensor back in when you worked on the car. The computer defaults to -20F which is so rare and so far off of average that it will run super rich, and terrible. That's first guess.
The second guess is that you didnt get a vacuum line plugged back in on the back of the intake. That or the EGR tube or seal is not installed properly in the intake. These aren't the easiest to install but are critical. Tilting the intake up at the front helps install the EGR tube easier. Leaving the EGR tube bolts loose, with a new gasket on the EGR valve, helps installation and prevents damage. They don't list a part number for the 2.7L but they do for the 3.5L which is the exact same thing. Like $1 or less. Just did one. Be sure and install the blue EGR tube to intake silicone gasket too.
 
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