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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys!! I purchased a replacement climate control from LKQ on eBay because my back lighting had went out, but now that I have it installed the doors that normally open/close to direct airflow don't seem to work anymore. I checked the model # before purchase and it matches the one I had factory wise, but the was another number that was slightly different. Should I try disconnecting the battery to see if it resets or something?
 

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Hey guys!! I purchased a replacement climate control from LKQ on eBay because my back lighting had went out, but now that I have it installed the doors that normally open/close to direct airflow don't seem to work anymore. I checked the model # before purchase and it matches the one I had factory wise, but the was another number that was slightly different. Should I try disconnecting the battery to see if it resets or something?
Can't hurt but makes we wonder if there is some sequence to calibrate the unit to the orientation of the airflow doors? So it doesn't try to rotate them open when they are already open which could cause be an issue if it tries to rotate them if they are rotated fully already. Maybe call the local dealer up and see if they will give you some information?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yea, I'm think something like that myself. I read somewhere that there's a fix with a scan tool but it wasn't a Charger they were speaking on. Since we're in the colder times now, I'm only running the heat but utilizing the defrost setting, but I never changed it before putting in the new unit. Now no matter what you try to set it too, it remains on heat and in the defrost setting. I might try calling a dealership but the always act as if they don't know unless they run a diagnosis for $99 bucks
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Here's something I found that might help others in the future:

The Actuator Circuit Test / Door Calibration function first tests the air-door electrical circuits for shorts and then it homes and repositions the air-doors to remove accumulated positioning errors and to check for air-door span faults. This test / function supplements the continuous actuator drive system diagnostics and can provide greater detail about shorted air-door electrical circuits by identifying up to three door driver circuits shorted simultaneously. This test will also detect air-door travel too large faults, air-door travel too small faults, air-door bound faults, and air-door broken linkage faults. The Actuator Circuit Test / Door Calibration function must be manually actuated. Faults detected will display when checking for DTCs in the A/C-heater control.

1. Turn the ignition to the On position.
2. Turn the blower motor control (1) to the Off position.
3. Press and hold the EBL [rear window defogger] mode switch (2) down and then turn the blower motor control on. Continue to hold the EBL mode switch down until the EBL status indicator begins flashing. Then, release the mode switch. While the test / function is running, the EBL status indicator will flash once per second.

If the test / function passes, the EBL status indicator will stop flashing. However, if the test / function fails, the A/C and EBL status indicators will flash alternately.
Faults detected will display when checking for DTCs in the A/C-heater control.

To read the DTCs:
1. Turn the ignition to the On position.
2. Turn the blower motor control (1) to the On position.
3. Press the A/C mode switch (2) down, turn the blower motor control to the Off position, wait until both LEDs illuminate (approximately 5 seconds) and then release the A/C switch. If there are active or stored DTCs to display, the A/C status indicator (3) will begin to flash. If there are no active or
stored DTCs to display, the LEDs on the A/C heater control (4) will turn off and the system will automatically exit the mode of operation.
4. To manually exit Display DTC Mode, either turn the ignition off or disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.




Here are the codes that could come up.
11–MODE POT OPEN (MTC)
12–MODE POT SHORTED (MTC)
13–TEMP POT OPEN (MTC)
14–TEMP POT SHORTED (MTC)
18–BLEND DOOR RANGE TOO SMALL (MTC)
21–BLEND DOOR RANGE TOO LARGE (MTC)
22–FRONT MODE DOOR RANGE TOO SMALL (MTC)
23–FRONT MODE DOOR RANGE TOO LARGE (MTC)
31–EVAPORATOR SENSOR OPEN (MTC)
32–EVAPORATOR SENSOR SHORTED (MTC)
33–A/C MODE SWITCH STUCK (MTC)
34–EBL MODE SWITCH STUCK (MTC)
35–FAILED COOL DOWN (MTC)
36–EEPROM CHECKSUM ERROR (MTC)
37–ROM CHECKSUM ERROR (MTC)
41–FRONT MODE OVERCURRENT (MTC)
43–BLEND OVERCURRENT (MTC)
44–RECIRC OVERCURRENT (MTC)
45–BLEND DOOR BOUND (MTC)
46–FRONT MODE DOOR BOUND (MTC)
47–RECIRC DOOR BOUND (MTC)
51–RECIRC DOOR RANGE TOO SMALL (MTC)
52–RECIRC DOOR RANGE TOO LARGE (MTC)
53–FRONT MODE DOOR LINKAGE BROKEN (MTC)
55–BLEND DOOR LINKAGE BROKEN (MTC)
56–RECIRC DOOR LINKAGE BROKEN (MTC)
61–COMMON DOOR DRIVER CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND (MTC)
62–COMMON DOOR DRIVER CIRCUIT SHORTED TO IGNITION (MTC)
63–FRONT MODE DOOR DRIVER CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND (MTC)
64–FRONT MODE DOOR DRIVER CIRCUIT SHORTED TO IGNITION (MTC)
67–BLEND DOOR DRIVER CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND (MTC)
68–BLEND DOOR DRIVER CIRCUIT SHORTED TO IGNITION (MTC)
69–RECIRC DOOR DRIVER CIRCUIT SHORTED TO GROUND (MTC)
71–RECIRC DOOR DRIVER CIRCUIT SHORTED TO IGNITION (MTC)
72–SHORT TOO COMPLEX (MTC)
73–AC REQUEST OUTPUT SIGNAL TOO HIGH (MTC)
74–AC REQUEST OUTPUT SIGNAL TOO LOW (MTC)
75–AC REQUEST OUTPUT SIGNAL HIGH WHEN DRIVEN LOW (MTC)
76–AC REQUEST OUTPUT SIGNAL LOW WHEN DRIVEN HIGH (MTC)
77–EBL OUTPUT SHORTED HIGH
81–BLOWER NOT ON HIGH AT START OF COOLDOWN TEST (MTC)
82–SENSOR TOO COLD TO START COOLDOWN TEST (MTC)
83–SENSOR FAILED OPEN DURING COOLDOWN TEST (MTC)
84–SENSOR FAILED SHORTED DURING COOLDOWN TEST (MTC)
85–BLOWER NOT ON HIGH DURING COOLDOWN TEST (MTC)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Are you having issues with your doors opening and closing? I know a lot of people were having issues with the blend doors and the actuators that operates them
 

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Not forsure what the problem is. Have 55 degree air out dash vents, 95 degree air out floor and center console with a/c on. If I switch to heat everything seems good 150 degree air out all vents. A/C seems to be working fine full charged drips water out the evap. Any advice?

Rick
 

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makes we wonder if there is some sequence to calibrate the unit
There's a Body Verification Test that's executed from a Scan Tool. The HVAC menus include a actuator calibration function that is run after repairs are made to any of the HVAC doors, linkage, door actuators, or door actuator circuits. This is required to calibrate ATC (automatic temp control) systems.

MTC (manual temp control) systems can be calibrated using the following procedure:
1. Turn the ignition on.
2. Turn the blower control to off.
3. Press the EBL mode switch down for five seconds and then release it. Wait approximately 90 seconds for the calibration process to run to completion before proceeding.
4. Turn the ignition off, wait 10 seconds, and then turn the ignition on.
5. Operate all functions of the system that caused the original problem to verify they're fixed.

The EBL is the rear window defroster. The service manual refers to it as the "EBL" for Electric Backlight system. I can't explain the logic of it but that's what they call it.
 

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Read DTC's got a 46 Front mode door bound (MTC) how do I fix this problem.
There is a mode door and a blend door. The mode door actuator is interchangeable with the actuators for the blend-air door(s) and the recirculation-air door ... so the trick is to figure out which door is actually bound (not moving).
In your case the DTC is pointing to the mode door. However, I have experienced heat coming out the vents when the A/C is On ... and it was the blend door. Since you're getting a mix of heat and cold out different vents it probably is the mode door. But if you replace the actuator for the blend door and still have the problem ... check the blend door.

The mode door actuator is located on the driver side end of the HVAC air distribution housing, close to the instrument panel. The mode door actuator is mechanically connected to the floor, defrost/demist and the panel-air doors.

The blend door actuator for the single zone heating-A/C system is also located on the driver side end of the HVAC air distribution housing, close to the dash panel. The blend door is mechanically connected to the driver side blend air door. If you have a dual zone heating-A/C system, a second blend door actuator is located on the passenger side of the HVAC air distribution housing and mechanically connected to the passenger side blend-air door.
 

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Pulled driver side dash out found mode door has the little arm that snaps into door broken and not hooked to linkage hope I can but this part. the little clip that hooks in door is broke and doesn't stay hooked in door so the linkage can't stay hooked.

Rick
 

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Got the little clip hooked back into door, linkage hooked back up and this seems to have fixed my problem. Hope I can buy this part somewhere, the dealer was no help. I should have taken a picture of it while I had it out. I guess I'm headed to a junk yard. Anyway thanks for the suggestions and help.

Rick
 

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Well I realize this is an old thread but it’s the most relevant to my issues so hoping I can resurrect it.


Bought my Charger last October. Never had any problems with my AC, it blew as strong and cold as I could expect for a 10 year old vehicle.


One night, it was a little chilly so I switched on the heater. The next time I tried to use to AC all I got was increasingly hotter air. Ran the Actuator test, got #14, #18 and #56


Per manual to resolve DTC #14 I replaced the AC Heater Control Module and ran body verification test first. Cleared saved codes and reran test.


Still getting DTC #56 Recirc Door Linkage Broken.


So far, I’ve removed the glove box but I can’t get to the nuts or screws holding the door actuator on to the air inlet of AC heater housing assembly and its dark outside now.


Tomorrow, I’ll head to the auto parts store that’s showing it has replacement door actuator I need in stock and borrow a flexible torx tool from them remove door actuator.


Any one done this repair, got advice in advance?


Hoping repairing recirc door returns AC to cool air but don’t see how it could.


Might I need a refrigerant refresh? That’s beyond my skill set. Referrals? I’m in So Cal area and this Summer heats got me beat!


Need my AC fixed STAT.


Thanks fellas,

Girl with wrenches
 

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03C73F4A-B9E1-4CBC-ACB9-1614F7A9DAC0.png Okay so I made it over to the parts store today and bought my new Dorman part #604-021 (I think it was) and per the manual for DTC 56, Step 2 I installed it. Reran the body verification test, cleared the stored DTCs and activated the Actuator calibration/test again. Still throwing a DTG 56 and active not stored DTC. What gives? Note that before installing new part, I did hand rotate the actuator doors and they just spin and spin with no stops. But the manual only stated if “they spin in either direction to install” see photo
 

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I was so over working in car during heatwave was waiting until to dusk to do anything at all. Although getting DTC 56 my AC now blows cold again & I didn’t want to but knew I had to follow up on last DTC anyways. Took me almost 2 weeks to do piecemeal but disconnected blower motor and climbed awkwardly in under glove box and voila! Recirc door not working with actuator and can be moved by hand all over the place freely. After pricing a new AC air inlet housing (recirc door and previously purchased actuator included) from MOPAR at another $75 (control module was $80ish plus $35 on actuator and $10 in specialty tool to remove instrument bezel) and reviewing what looks like a PIA and another 2-4 hrs in repair time, Im declaring this b1tch done - not interested in investing more money or time in full repairs now that I’ve got some cool air
 

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I was so over working in car during heatwave was waiting until to dusk to do anything at all. Although getting DTC 56 my AC now blows cold again & I didn’t want to but knew I had to follow up on last DTC anyways. Took me almost 2 weeks to do piecemeal but disconnected blower motor and climbed awkwardly in under glove box and voila! Recirc door not working with actuator and can be moved by hand all over the place freely. After pricing a new AC air inlet housing (recirc door and previously purchased actuator included) from MOPAR at another $75 (control module was $80ish plus $35 on actuator and $10 in specialty tool to remove instrument bezel) and reviewing what looks like a PIA and another 2-4 hrs in repair time, Im declaring this b1tch done - not interested in investing more money or time in full repairs now that I’ve got some cool air
I’m impressed! Been working on high performance cars for 45 years but would be afraid to dig into anything like what you just did! I think I am having a similar problem with my 2013. The recirculation does not come on and my high speed fan does not come on when I activate max air. Do you think the recirculation door is stuck? Can you come over and fix mine?
 

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Aw thanks BilletAG

Kind words like that and a few beers might’ve gotten you help if we lived in the same time zone

No Recirc mode or high speed fan mode huh? ATC or MTC? I assume albeit 5 yrs newer that your AC system still self calibrates and tests, did you try running Actuator Circuit Calibratestamajiggy? What codes did you get? Is actually much funnier puzzle trying to determine fault than it reads. Post codes or video of flashing leds you get.
 

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I’ll see if I can test it tomorrow. Recirculation does not work in MTC. When I activate the recirculation button, it turns climate control on ATC.
 

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I’ll see if I can test it tomorrow. Recirculation does not work in MTC. When I activate the recirculation button, it turns climate control on ATC.
I did not have to get into the dash. It was not an actuator. I found it had thrown a code for the humidity sensor. It did not show up as an engine code on the dash. The sensor is under a little black plastic cover mounted on the inside windshield to the right of the rearview mirror. I installed a new sensor and the recirculation and max air work fine now.
 
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