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Discussion Starter #1
I'm considering getting the tune up but I want to be able to increase the off the line acceleration as well as low-end torque. since the majority of driving is just regular driving I'm not going to be keeping at 4000 RPM at all times


I want faster acceleration as well as off-the-line acceleration.. 0-30 quicker

does the tuner do that? does anybody have any real-world experience with it? 3.5 L experience would be ideal but if anybody's done it on any of their
 

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i was hoping for more real world personal experience

I understand how it works I'm just wondering what people's results have been

specifically since it's a 3.5 L v6 I'm wondering if it's even possible to noticeably change the off the line acceleration without serious and expensive mods..

i feel like different exhaust wpuld reduce back pressure wicheans LESS low end torque

and a cai wont make much difference without a tune + catbackk

so I was wondering if there was anything that just the tuner could change to give a little bit more off the line performance and whether anybody had experience with it to confirm or deny it
 

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Hey Mike,

Not too many folks on here still rockin a 3.5, but hope someone pitches in.
But yes, with a few bolt ons like CAI, Exhaust and a tune, you will notice a little difference in terms of driveability.
Some tuners also boost throttle input by 15% or so so you get a little more punch for the same foot/pedal calibration you usually use when driving.

With regards to 'backpressure' - really, it comes down to the scavenging efficacy of an exhaust:

 

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Hey Mike,

Not too many folks on here still rockin a 3.5, but hope someone pitches in.
But yes, with a few bolt ons like CAI, Exhaust and a tune, you will notice a little difference in terms of driveability.
Some tuners also boost throttle input by 15% or so so you get a little more punch for the same foot/pedal calibration you usually use when driving.

With regards to 'backpressure' - really, it comes down to the scavenging efficacy of an exhaust:

really im hoping for really good off the line and decent highway acceleration

it feels sluggish from a dead stop until it hits like 3-5k rpm

i want that to be faster at lower rpm from a stop

and ive driven alot of cars. a recent one was the 2019 Mitsubishi outlander. with a 4 cylinder engine but it had no problem passing otger cars on the highway. its no racecar but i could tap the gas and downshift and easily get ahead at highway speedss

i want that more for the 3.5

basically what feels like the main issue is that the only really goes at high RPMs..

. im looking to get better low rpm and off the line accelerationn

i get that most have gone to 3.6 but im not ready to pay 14k for another car yet

especially when alot of them are more beat upp
 

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Discussion Starter #7
A custom email tune from Hemifever knocked half a second off my 0-60 in my RT
would something like that work for a v6?

also I'm hoping tonight have to use 93 octane. there's a massive difference in price between 87 and 93..

hows ur off the line accelerationn before and afterr
 

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would something like that work for a v6?

also I'm hoping tonight have to use 93 octane. there's a massive difference in price between 87 and 93..

hows ur off the line accelerationn before and afterr

Looks like you can tune your vehicle with that. I don't know if hemifever tunes the v6 but he probably does, or someone out there does. My 0-60 is .5 seconds faster with the tune. Most of it is actually the transmission tune, shifts are much quicker, redline is a bit higher, top speed limiter is off too. I think my car is factory locked at 130mph. I went 147 a while back pretty easily. Tune works best at higher octane but they can be set to run on any octane you want. A tuner can probably give you a tune for each octane rating.
 

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Discussion Starter #9

Looks like you can tune your vehicle with that. I don't know if hemifever tunes the v6 but he probably does, or someone out there does. My 0-60 is .5 seconds faster with the tune. Most of it is actually the transmission tune, shifts are much quicker, redline is a bit higher, top speed limiter is off too. I think my car is factory locked at 130mph. I went 147 a while back pretty easily. Tune works best at higher octane but they can be set to run on any octane you want. A tuner can probably give you a tune for each octane rating.
i have the predator for my 06 v6 and dont see any transmission options other than shift firmness 😥
 

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A lower rear gear will help. It will give you more low end off the starting line. What speed trans do you have? Assuming you have a 2.62 rear and change to a 3.06, it will increase your torque multiplication in first gear by 17%. A 3.73 will increase it by more than 40%! In other words, the tires will be able to spin easier.
 

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A lower rear gear will help. It will give you more low end off the starting line. What speed trans do you have? Assuming you have a 2.62 rear and change to a 3.06, it will increase your torque multiplication in first gear by 17%. A 3.73 will increase it by more than 40%! In other words, the tires will be able to spin easier.
IDK what the rear gear is because it doesn't say and I'm having trouble figuring it out. it's whatever came with it probably unless the last guy changed it. It doesn't look overly big

I've heard that the ratios are 3.06 3.64 3.90

IDK tho. Even a 7% difference would probably make a big difference..

that's what I'm looking at. another option is just getting smaller tires. but I'm not good with that math that what size tire would change the ratio by what percent..
 

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I think there is only two ratios for a Charger? In 2011-2014, it was a 2.65 standard and a 3.06 was the performance rear. The limited production 2011 Mopar ‘11’ Charger had a 3.92 rear. I don’t know if you will get a big enough boost from the 3.06 for the cost? You will affect your speedometer accuracy if you put a smaller diameter tire on the front...
 

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thats what ive been saying! but everyone else is denying basic physics and sayong it wont improve anythingg
I don't think I've read that from anybody. They've said you'll get some but it's not worth the money you'd spend for the minimal gain you'd get but the guys over here don't know that since you have that thread over on the 300c forum where you keep comparing your ride to a Crown Vic. You're comparing apples to oranges.
 

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I don't think I've read that from anybody. They've said you'll get some but it's not worth the money you'd spend for the minimal gain you'd get but the guys over here don't know that since you have that thread over on the 300c forum where you keep comparing your ride to a Crown Vic. You're comparing apples to oranges.
you still haven't explained how it's apples to oranges? They are the same weight with the same horsepower and the same torque. there's no apples to oranges here..

as far as it not being worth the money if simultaneously telling me that a better rear end gear wouldn't be worth the money but spending money on a cold air intake and dual exhaust somehow would be? telling me I would get better in performance improvements and low-end torque from an SRT dual exhaust that's not made for this car versus btter gears?

the same people telling me that rear gears are a waste of money or also telling you that it's not a waste of money to get dual exhaust a second cold air intake new headers forged internals and a different camshaft all to gain maybe 50 horsepower MAYBE

and remember that the 300 horsepower 3.6 l isn't much faster from 2011..

and what minimal gaine? different gears or a maximum. some of the best money you can buy

if you want to do the math then if you get even a 7% change in gear ratio apply that 7% across-the-board. it's the equivalent of a 7% horsepower increase which is like 15 horsepower it's the equivalent of 7 % torque increase which is like 20 lbs torqu


and a 7% increase in 0 to 60 times? it's almost .5 seconds


I don't think people have really thought it through. They simply know that ricers and nascar use cool sounding things like "dual exhaust" and "cold air intake" and "camshafts" so they just slap a bunch of things that they know r on performance cars onto their car and hope it works..


there's many more factors that go into it rather than just putting a boltt on thing.

most of these guys dont have a 3.5

yeah it's true if you have a high our V8 a lot of those things might help. More free flowing exhaust on 6.1 l V8 is going to give it substantially more hp.


a cold air intake on that is going to increase the horsepower substantially because it needs it. isn't going to be able to make much use of the extra ir flow


it already has a cold air intake. The air it's pulling in is cold. The only thing a k&n cold air intake would do is maybe increase the diameter a little bit and use a filter that allows a little bit more air but it's doubtful it would even take much advantage of it..

if we're talking about wasted money I don't see the point in spending 200 to $300 on a cold air intake and maybe get a unnnoticeable amount increase

if I have to look hard to even notice the difference then it wasn't worth the moneyy

performance mods like 7 ft wide exhaust and headers and cam shafts and cold air intakes a good for high performance cars with high performance V8 already maxing out what they can do. those aren't going to do lunch on a fuel efficient car. gears are what it's a different sound Lowe's. That's why Dodge created different rear-end gear ratios for the different cars. The 5.7 l pastor 3.06 the 3.5 l has the 3.64 and the 2.7 l had the 3.90. Because they knew that the gear ratios made a difference..


if it didn't they would have just given them all the same gear ratio..


I don't see any evidence to back up the idea that it's going to be minimal improvements. sure it's not going to make it eat a 6.1 l but it doesn't have to..

minimal improvements would be things like dual exhaust and cold-air intake that nobody in these forms has ever stated actually massively improved their car..

in fact according to the forum it seems like they'll actually hurt the cars. I see people talking all the time about how they put SRT exhaust and cold-air intake on their 3.5 and are getting 8.3 seconds 0 to 60. That's worse than factory stock..

then they talked about after they buy a $300 predator and do a tune it's back down to 7.5 which was factory stuff. set from my research it seems like those bolt on mods actually hurt the performance and you need to use a specialized tune just to get it back down to what it was originally..



are also the same people that were saying that it was like a night and day difference when they installed the 93 octane and I did that and there was hardly a difference..

maybe there was a slight difference but I could hardly tell. And if it's barely noticeable it's not worth spending the extra money on 93 octane all the time..

personal experience and professional car manufacturing engineers say that the rear end ratio makes a difference..


professional engineers also say that it's not just about slapping on something that sounds nice like "dual exhaust"" and that you have to actually make sure that it works for your enginee

but then my proposals are getting shot down by people who don't even own the same car telling me that the engineers are wrong I know what you really have to do is spend hundreds to thousands of dollars playing on all these bolt ons that's so far no owners have claimed workss

really drive the point home my friend owns a minivan. it's heavier and it has a smaller engine. less horsepower

first gear on that minivan is 4.10..

it takes off quicker then my car. maybe my car over all is faster if we drag raced it the top speed but from a stop the minivan is actually faster. You can't tell me that rear end and 1st gearss don't make a difference


it's literally heavier and it would beat my car going 0 to 30..

and it doesn't have the magic dual exhaust

I'm sick of being shot down with this obvious proposal instead of just getting the answers that I was looking for about what gear ratio would be best.

going from 3.06 to 3.64 we're being almost 20% increase. same as going from 3.64 to 3.90..

just need help figuring out how it will affect my gas mileage and which ones I need..
 

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you still haven't explained how it's apples to oranges? They are the same weight with the same horsepower and the same torque. there's no apples to oranges here..

as far as it not being worth the money if simultaneously telling me that a better rear end gear wouldn't be worth the money but spending money on a cold air intake and dual exhaust somehow would be? telling me I would get better in performance improvements and low-end torque from an SRT dual exhaust that's not made for this car versus btter gears?

the same people telling me that rear gears are a waste of money or also telling you that it's not a waste of money to get dual exhaust a second cold air intake new headers forged internals and a different camshaft all to gain maybe 50 horsepower MAYBE

and remember that the 300 horsepower 3.6 l isn't much faster from 2011..

and what minimal gaine? different gears or a maximum. some of the best money you can buy

if you want to do the math then if you get even a 7% change in gear ratio apply that 7% across-the-board. it's the equivalent of a 7% horsepower increase which is like 15 horsepower it's the equivalent of 7 % torque increase which is like 20 lbs torqu


and a 7% increase in 0 to 60 times? it's almost .5 seconds


I don't think people have really thought it through. They simply know that ricers and nascar use cool sounding things like "dual exhaust" and "cold air intake" and "camshafts" so they just slap a bunch of things that they know r on performance cars onto their car and hope it works..


there's many more factors that go into it rather than just putting a boltt on thing.

most of these guys dont have a 3.5

yeah it's true if you have a high our V8 a lot of those things might help. More free flowing exhaust on 6.1 l V8 is going to give it substantially more hp.


a cold air intake on that is going to increase the horsepower substantially because it needs it. isn't going to be able to make much use of the extra ir flow


it already has a cold air intake. The air it's pulling in is cold. The only thing a k&n cold air intake would do is maybe increase the diameter a little bit and use a filter that allows a little bit more air but it's doubtful it would even take much advantage of it..

if we're talking about wasted money I don't see the point in spending 200 to $300 on a cold air intake and maybe get a unnnoticeable amount increase

if I have to look hard to even notice the difference then it wasn't worth the moneyy

performance mods like 7 ft wide exhaust and headers and cam shafts and cold air intakes a good for high performance cars with high performance V8 already maxing out what they can do. those aren't going to do lunch on a fuel efficient car. gears are what it's a different sound Lowe's. That's why Dodge created different rear-end gear ratios for the different cars. The 5.7 l pastor 3.06 the 3.5 l has the 3.64 and the 2.7 l had the 3.90. Because they knew that the gear ratios made a difference..


if it didn't they would have just given them all the same gear ratio..


I don't see any evidence to back up the idea that it's going to be minimal improvements. sure it's not going to make it eat a 6.1 l but it doesn't have to..

minimal improvements would be things like dual exhaust and cold-air intake that nobody in these forms has ever stated actually massively improved their car..

in fact according to the forum it seems like they'll actually hurt the cars. I see people talking all the time about how they put SRT exhaust and cold-air intake on their 3.5 and are getting 8.3 seconds 0 to 60. That's worse than factory stock..

then they talked about after they buy a $300 predator and do a tune it's back down to 7.5 which was factory stuff. set from my research it seems like those bolt on mods actually hurt the performance and you need to use a specialized tune just to get it back down to what it was originally..



are also the same people that were saying that it was like a night and day difference when they installed the 93 octane and I did that and there was hardly a difference..

maybe there was a slight difference but I could hardly tell. And if it's barely noticeable it's not worth spending the extra money on 93 octane all the time..

personal experience and professional car manufacturing engineers say that the rear end ratio makes a difference..


professional engineers also say that it's not just about slapping on something that sounds nice like "dual exhaust"" and that you have to actually make sure that it works for your enginee

but then my proposals are getting shot down by people who don't even own the same car telling me that the engineers are wrong I know what you really have to do is spend hundreds to thousands of dollars playing on all these bolt ons that's so far no owners have claimed workss

really drive the point home my friend owns a minivan. it's heavier and it has a smaller engine. less horsepower

first gear on that minivan is 4.10..

it takes off quicker then my car. maybe my car over all is faster if we drag raced it the top speed but from a stop the minivan is actually faster. You can't tell me that rear end and 1st gearss don't make a difference


it's literally heavier and it would beat my car going 0 to 30..

and it doesn't have the magic dual exhaust

I'm sick of being shot down with this obvious proposal instead of just getting the answers that I was looking for about what gear ratio would be best.

going from 3.06 to 3.64 we're being almost 20% increase. same as going from 3.64 to 3.90..

just need help figuring out how it will affect my gas mileage and which ones I need..
It's not worth my time, you're looking more like a troll every time you reply. Not wasting any more time on someone that's too lazy to do their own research & question everything that someone says.
 

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It's not worth my time, you're looking more like a troll every time you reply. Not wasting any more time on someone that's too lazy to do their own research & question everything that someone says.
Think redneckrockstar.
 

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IDK what the rear gear is because it doesn't say and I'm having trouble figuring it out. it's whatever came with it probably unless the last guy changed it. It doesn't look overly big
You can find out your entire original build list by putting your vin# into the FCA site here >>> FCA RAM <<< . Chances are you have 2.62 gears. As others here have said, upgrading to a 3.06 will give you some improvement in acceleration, but maybe not enough to be worth the $$. Maybe if you can do the install yourself, not so much $$ then. Tuning is never a bad idea, and could give you a modest hp gain. In the end, based on reading a lot of other posts about the V6 mods over the years, I fear you're not going to get the noticeable response you are seeking. But I wish you luck!
 
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