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Discussion Starter #1
TL;DR
Changed left front wheel speed sensor but still getting ABS and stability control messages.


I know this is a common problem and there are a bunch of threads on this, but short of taking it to the dealer I see people have had mixed results. I saw a few quick estimates and past experiences that put the dealer cost of fixing one of these around several hundred dollars. Some even want $150 just to scan it lol, so I set about trying to do this one on my own. My problem all started with the car telling me to service the ABS and electronic stability control, and from there is went like this:

I was driving last Monday and I get the ding and messages in the dash telling me to get the ABS and ESC serviced. Messages/warning lights went out after a few seconds and that was that. Got the same messages one more time that day and a few more the next. At this point I figured it was some sort of sensor starting to crap out. On Wednesday I set off and when I hit the brakes I get the ABS pushing back at me through the pedal for a second, then the brakes go back to normal and the warning lights come on and have been on ever since.

After doing some quick research I see that this is somewhat common and the wheel speed sensors are the usual culprit, but not sure which one(s). Head to AutoZone and their scanner, an Innova 3130f, gives me four error codes for the left front wheel speed sensor. Unfortunately I didn't write them down exactly but I do know one of them said 'erratic signal'. Anyways, they order me a replacement sensor, a Dorman 'ABS Sensor', and yesterday I install it. I also picked up an Innova 3100j OBD Scanner since I knew that brand would read the ABS codes for the Charger.

Installed the new sensor, drove for a couple miles and the lights didn't go out, so I hooked up the scanner and it read 3 codes for the left front wheel. I selected the option to clear all the codes and I guess it did 2 of them but one error remains:

C0031-4A (1/1) Active
Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor - Incorrect Component Installed

Now, the description is pretty clear what the problem is, but the guy at AutoZone (who I trust) told me the sensor he ordered is the right one. It looks just like the one i removed and fit the same. I know others have seen this code after replacing the sensor so I thought maybe it's not necessarily the wrong part.

At this point I'm not sure what to do next. I've read that it can take up to 50 miles for the ABS and stability control warnings to go away on their own, but I have my reservations about that. Maybe the scanner I bought isn't sophisticated enough to clear the remaining code? Should I disconnect the battery and let everything reboot and see if it comes back on? I'd prefer to avoid the dealer at this point because of the cost and since I already switched the sensor I'm afraid they might try to ding me for as much as possible or say I messed something up. The car rides fine and I don't feel anything through the wheel or pedal (although my OCD has me thinking about the tiniest sensations from every bump and crappy road lol). I'd like to avoid taking the wheel off again too as it took a toll on my back getting the lug nuts loose and tightening them back up. Any help anyone can provide is greatly appreciated.

Sorry for the long post and thanks for reading!
 

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I'm not positive but I believe starting in 2015 there was 2 different sensors. I've seen other posts where people have had this same issue.
 

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Oh boy, I have a very recent horror story for you on a similar subject:
2014 pursuit...
similar anti skid & engine light.... errors
Also had my dash light flickering as I drove down the road ...

Short story version ...
at dealer after chatting with their class A tech (34 yers w dodge)... I asked him to scan it and to check the police wires to see if cut or shorted $139
Claimed he needed to bypass 2 circuits ... final bill .. $897.31 to run 2 wires

All problem we’re back in 3 days but no one would call me back after many messages to service manager ... I stopped in and they refused to work on my car for altered Exhaust ...same as the original visit and repair..?????

In the mean time
I pulled the entire dash apart to look for bad grounds and check all harness connections .... all good.
Wife noticed a lump in the floor ... under it was 9 stripped wires from police equipment, 1 direct from battery, (it could of started a fire) ...
repaired and pulled back in to the console.

My flickering dash lights now cleared caused by the shorting wires in floor...
Cleared all Errors for 2 weeks
then both lights returned engine and anti-skid .

3 weeks of calls to dealership general manager and owner representatives ...
got me a free new scan and look at car..
They made me wait 4&1/2 hours to clear the errors and said it was a ghosting problem and nothing can be done

We are at the mercy of the stealer dealers because they have a monopoly on their proprietary electronics

Their should be law to protect us from this criminal consumer treatment

Tony in Florida
 

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First, you should use factory parts. The scanner at Auto Zone may not have been reading correctly. I had the same problem: ABS and Traction Control lights were on and cruise control would not work. I have a friend who is a tech at the Dodge dealer and he scanned it for me as a favor. When I replaced my wheel sensor, the lights did not come back on and cruise was back working.
 

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^^^ what he said.....I have tried sensors from Ebay that do not work...some were so long that they contacted the reluctor...dodgy uses active sensors...their resistance and volts can be checked with a DVM...they should also have a volt supply ...if not there is probably a wiring problem..

My Foxwell 644 scanner will erase codes and turn out the dash light but the error code and light will instantly reappear if the problem is not corrected..

the scanner will also read individual wheel speeds as the car is moving and the bad sensor will be obvious..

check your installation of the new sensor...

vid might held
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks everyone for your insight. Since my original post I've come across some info from other owners who indicated the same as all you guys, that the aftermarket sensor won't work. I believe a fellow owner even got a code saying there was a 'Compare Signal Failure' or something along those lines, indicating perhaps both front (or rear) sensors may have been working, but they weren't working in unison.

I even stopped by the local Mavis today as I saw they were open on a Sunday, and the first thing the guy there told me was that using an OE part is where I should (re)start. Combine all this with the fact that the scanner is telling me I have an incorrect component installed lol and that's what I'll do next.

Tanza:

You're scaring me over here haha. Seriously though that sucks that you had to go through all that. What you say about the proprietary nature of aspects of the vehicle is so true. Sucks that you have to hope the dealer is fair just so you can keep your car/their product working.



Thanks again everyone. I'll keep posting as developments occur.
 

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Dealers get 100% markup but I always stick with factory parts. Ask your parts manager to give you a discount. I got 20% off all my parts just by talking nice to the parts manager. Told him I work on my own car and can get Mopar parts cheap on the internet but would prefer to deal with my local Dodge dealer and could use a break in parts. I have (4) FCA vehicle’s and spend a lot of money on parts.
image.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just had an OE Mopar sensor put on and, voila, no more ABS/Traction lights.

I bought the sensor from the dealer for $31.45, which is about the same that I paid for the aftermarket one. I also asked the guy in the service department how much it would cost to have it installed and he quoted me $450 because it's a very difficulty part to get to and will require a decent amount of time.

Anyways, I've been trying to avoid doing it myself again because I get sciatic pain in my back, so I went back to Mavis to see what it would cost there and the guy quoted me $58 for .7 hrs of work. The tech did it in about 15 mins and the guy at the desk said don't worry about the charge, just tip the technician. I gave him $45 and everything's good now.

Thanks everyone for your help. I wish I had come to you all sooner.
 

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So good evening. I'm having the same issue. I replaced my sensor with MOPAR sensor and my ABS light and ESC lights are still illuminated. I had the axle replace but it was a 3rd party axle. Could this be the problem, I'm still getting C0030, Left Front Tone Wheel - General Signal Failure. What other options should I consider?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So good evening. I'm having the same issue. I replaced my sensor with MOPAR sensor and my ABS light and ESC lights are still illuminated. I had the axle replace but it was a 3rd party axle. Could this be the problem, I'm still getting C0030, Left Front Tone Wheel - General Signal Failure. What other options should I consider?
Derrick197729, sorry to hear you're having this problem.

Since my original posting I had this same problem again with a different wheel (these sensors generally wear at the same rate, so when one goes others probably aren't far behind). One of the codes I got was 'C0039-02 Right Rear Tone Wheel - General Signal Failure', same as you but a different wheel. Also the same as one of the codes I received the first time this happened to me (before using an off brand replacement). Each time the problem was resolved by replacing the wheel speed sensor with an OE part.

Did you replace the axle and wheel speed sensor at the same time? If the fix was simultaneous then that would indicate it is the axle, however the code you received suggests to me that it's not that, so I'm not sure (I know that doesn't help). The sensor doesn't really interact with the axle directly as far as I know. It could be the actual tone wheel from which the sensor receives the signal. It looks sort of like a sprocket with a lot of teeth. I think I remember reading when I first had this problem that the tone wheels can become very dirty, which would interrupt the signal, however that's really all I know about how the sensors work.

May I ask where you sourced your replacement sensor so as to rule out any chance that it's a knock off?

Sorry I can't be any more help. Let me know if you have any more questions and keep us posted on your progress.
 

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CdNJ,

Thank you for the response. The sensors are Mopar but the axle is not. I replaced the sensors after the axle not at the same time. I will take it to the mechanic tomorrow for him to scan it. My service awd started coming on as well. So I replaced the axle,disconnect solenoid/actuator as well. The car is 9 years old with a lot of original parts but I hope to have it resolved tomorrow.

Derrick197729, sorry to hear you're having this problem.

Since my original posting I had this same problem again with a different wheel (these sensors generally wear at the same rate, so when one goes others probably aren't far behind). One of the codes I got was 'C0039-02 Right Rear Tone Wheel - General Signal Failure', same as you but a different wheel. Also the same as one of the codes I received the first time this happened to me (before using an off brand replacement). Each time the problem was resolved by replacing the wheel speed sensor with an OE part.

Did you replace the axle and wheel speed sensor at the same time? If the fix was simultaneous then that would indicate it is the axle, however the code you received suggests to me that it's not that, so I'm not sure (I know that doesn't help). The sensor doesn't really interact with the axle directly as far as I know. It could be the actual tone wheel from which the sensor receives the signal. It looks sort of like a sprocket with a lot of teeth. I think I remember reading when I first had this problem that the tone wheels can become very dirty, which would interrupt the signal, however that's really all I know about how the sensors work.

May I ask where you sourced your replacement sensor so as to rule out any chance that it's a knock off?

Sorry I can't be any more help. Let me know if you have any more questions and keep us posted on your progress.
 

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Over the weekend I got the dreaded C0031 error code. Ironically, the car had been sitting in the driveway after driving home from a trip to the pharmacy to pick up a prescription a few days earlier. We had the car loaded up to take a 300 mile round-trip to take our grandchildren back to their parents. I only drove the car a hundred feet or so when the ABS & ESP lights flashed on. I pulled back into the driveway and we went in my wife's Chrysler 200 (not nearly as pleasant a drive). I wasn't worried about not having ABS or ESP, but I didn't relish driving 300 miles without cruise control.

When I got back home, I used the AlfaOBD software to diagnose what was wrong. When I checked the ABS module, it showed the C0031 error, indicating that there was a problem with the left front wheel speed sensor. I cleared the fault, but as soon as I started driving, it came back.

I looked online (moparonlineparts & Rockauto) and found the sensor (part# 68199988AD) for just under $25. This morning I called my local Dodge dealer to see if they had the part in stock. They didn't, but the parts manager said he could get it by tomorrow, so I told him to go ahead and order it for me (15% off the list price). He called me back a few minutes later to say he looked up my VIN (I bought the car from this dealership) and his computer said that it takes a different part number (68199987AC) which has a list price of almost $52 (before discount). As jkelly16 noted, there are two different part numbers for the front wheel sensors on the 2015's (and possibly other years as well). As much as I hated to pay double for the other sensor, I decided that I should order the one that the VIN says it needs.

I'll report back after I get the sensor and install it. Hopefully, the installation won't be too difficult. It looks pretty easy from watching a couple of YouTube videos, but nothing ever goes easy for me!
 

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Well, I picked up the sensor this morning. I tried installing it but failed. I got the connector end off okay, however I couldn't get the sensor out of the hub. I was able to get a small screwdriver under the section where the bolt goes. However, the actual sensor itself is frozen into the hub. I tried everything I could think of to break it free, but there's nothing really to grab onto to try to pry it up with. Reluctantly, I made an appointment to bring the car to the dealer next week.
 

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soak it overnight with PB Blaster of Farty Artie's nut buster.. if that doesn't get it some gentle heat from a propane torch should do it..
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I had the same difficulty getting the sensor end out as well. Once getting the screwdriver under the 'hilt' I just kept leveraging and moving it around until it started to break free. At first it did seem like it wasn't going to budge but eventually it did. I did have to play with it for about 15-20 minutes. Yours might be bedded in there a little more. I'm not sure if you're still under warranty but the dealers by me quoted $450, plus the OBD diagnostic fee. I took mine to a Mavis where my friend works and they did it in 20 minutes when the dealer wanted me to leave my car for half a day. First time the manager didn't charge me and I just tipped the tech, and the second time he charged me 30 minutes of labor. Cost about 50 bucks each time.
 

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Thanks for the tips, guys. I did soak it with PB Blaster, although not overnight. I tried lifting both sides of the mounting "bracket" and turning the mounting bracket back and forth. Unfortunately, all that happened was the wire, where it goes into the body of the sensor, was twisting, but the sensor itself wasn't moving. I also tried rocking the bracket where it's attached to the sensor/wire back and forth, also with no luck. Unfortunately, there's nothing "hard" sticking out of the hole to grab onto to pull, just the wires and bracket. If the sensor were a metal part, I would try some heat, however I don't want to melt the wire insulation and rubbery plastic. At this point I've put it all back together and I don't think my wife will let me try again. I was diagnosed with Stage 4 lung cancer about 18 months ago and ever since, my wife goes into a panic every time I mention working on the car. I appreciate that she's concerned for me, but she worries too much.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
That sucks it's not coming out, Bob. At this point I'd say take it in, but again, beware the dealer pricing on this. You've realized by now that barring the stuck sensor, this is a pretty easy job, so don't let the dealer take you for a ride.

My Dad also has (had) lung cancer. He actually had one of his lungs removed and is limited in his activity as well, so I can empathize with your wife on not wanting you to work on your car. Hell, I gave up on doing it a second time (after buying an incompatible aftermarket part the first time) just for sciatic pain, so I wouldn't feel bad at all about taking it to someone lol. Let us know how it goes.
 
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