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We have a 2006 Dodge Charger. For the past few months our check engine light will come on periodically. When it does the car will start having a really rough idle when stopped. It also has a VERY slow acceleration and then it will just jump and go.
We have taken it in one other time and they said they fixed the problem. My husband thinks that one of the valves is sticking and they will have to take off the heads and this will be VERY expensive to fix.
Has anyone had this problem? If so, what exactly was the issue? What were the repair costs? Any other helpful information?
Thanks so much for the help.
 

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Do you know if it's throwing any DTC codes???? Here's how to access it:

"From the Top 150 + Tips & Tricks"

1. Get in the car, close the door.
Perform steps 2-6 fairly quickly (less than 3 sec's total time).
(The key should not return to the OFF position through this next sequence!)

2. Turn key to 'ON' position
3. then back to 'ACC'
4. then to 'ON'
5. then back to 'ACC'
6. then to 'ON'

If there are any stored codes, they will appear immediately, in place of the odometer.
 

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P0300 Diagnostic Code - Random Misfire


Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

What does that mean?
Basically this means that the the car's computer has detected that not all of the engine's cylinders are firing properly.
A P0300 diagnostic code indicates a random or multiple misfire. If the last digit is a number other than zero, it corresponds to the cylinder number that is misfiring. A P0302 code, for example, would tell you cylinder number two is misfiring. Unfortunately, a P0300 doesn't tell you specifically which cylinder(s) is/are mis-firing, nor why.

Symptoms
Symptoms may include:
  • the engine may be harder to start
  • the engine may stumble / stumble, and/or hesitate
  • other symptoms may also be present
Causes
A code P0300 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
  • Faulty spark plugs or wires
  • Faulty coil (pack)
  • Faulty oxygen sensor(s)
  • Faulty fuel injector(s)
  • Burned exhaust valve
  • Faulty catalytic converter(s)
  • Stuck/blocked EGR valve / passages
  • Faulty camshaft position sensor
  • Defective computer
Possible Solutions
If there are no symptoms, the simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back.
If there are symptoms such as the engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders (i.e. spark plugs). Depending on how long the ignition components have been in the car, it may be a good idea to replace them as part of your regular maintenance schedule. I would suggest spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor (if applicable). Otherwise, check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the catalytic converter has gone bad. If you smell rotten eggs in the exhaust, your cat converter needs to be replaced. I've also heard in other cases the problems were faulty fuel injectors.
Random misfires that jump around from one cylinder to another (read: P030x codes) also will set a P0300 code. The underlying cause is often a lean fuel condition, which may be due to a vacuum leak in the intake manifold or unmetered air getting past the airflow sensor, or an EGR valve that is stuck open.

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P0132 OBD-II Trouble Code

Technical Description
O2 Oxygen Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank1, Sensor1)

What does that mean?
This involves the front oxygen sensor on Bank 1. This code indicates that the heated oxygen sensor reading is too high.
Symptoms
You will likely not notice any drivability problems.
Causes
A code P0132 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
· The oxygen sensor [FONT=inherit!important]heater circuit is shorted out [/FONT]
· The wiring to the sensor is broken / frayed (less likely)
Possible Solutions
The simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back.
If the code comes back, the problem is more than likely the front Bank 1 oxygen sensor. You will likely wind up replacing it but you should also consider these possible solutions:
· Check for wiring problems (shorted, frayed wires)
· Check the voltage of the oxygen sensor
 
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My charger throw a misfire code twice, and the idle was rough also. The dealer upgraded the software on the TCM Or PCM, because there was an upgrade available for multiple cylinder misfire. They also use a carb cleaner(like seafoam) in the vacuum line. Now it runs like its new again, and I have had no more misfires. Hopefully this will help you out a bit.
 

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I just started getting the P0300 code a couple times over the last month, thanks for this Dave, it definitely helps!:TU:

P0300 Diagnostic Code - Random Misfire


Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

What does that mean?
Basically this means that the the car's computer has detected that not all of the engine's cylinders are firing properly.
A P0300 diagnostic code indicates a random or multiple misfire. If the last digit is a number other than zero, it corresponds to the cylinder number that is misfiring. A P0302 code, for example, would tell you cylinder number two is misfiring. Unfortunately, a P0300 doesn't tell you specifically which cylinder(s) is/are mis-firing, nor why.

Symptoms
Symptoms may include:
  • the engine may be harder to start
  • the engine may stumble / stumble, and/or hesitate
  • other symptoms may also be present
Causes
A code P0300 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
  • Faulty spark plugs or wires
  • Faulty coil (pack)
  • Faulty oxygen sensor(s)
  • Faulty fuel injector(s)
  • Burned exhaust valve
  • Faulty catalytic converter(s)
  • Stuck/blocked EGR valve / passages
  • Faulty camshaft position sensor
  • Defective computer
Possible Solutions
If there are no symptoms, the simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back.
If there are symptoms such as the engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders (i.e. spark plugs). Depending on how long the ignition components have been in the car, it may be a good idea to replace them as part of your regular maintenance schedule. I would suggest spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor (if applicable). Otherwise, check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the catalytic converter has gone bad. If you smell rotten eggs in the exhaust, your cat converter needs to be replaced. I've also heard in other cases the problems were faulty fuel injectors.
Random misfires that jump around from one cylinder to another (read: P030x codes) also will set a P0300 code. The underlying cause is often a lean fuel condition, which may be due to a vacuum leak in the intake manifold or unmetered air getting past the airflow sensor, or an EGR valve that is stuck open.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


P0132 OBD-II Trouble Code

Technical Description
O2 Oxygen Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank1, Sensor1)

What does that mean?
This involves the front oxygen sensor on Bank 1. This code indicates that the heated oxygen sensor reading is too high.
Symptoms
You will likely not notice any drivability problems.
Causes
A code P0132 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:
· The oxygen sensor [FONT=inherit!important]heater circuit is shorted out [/FONT]
· The wiring to the sensor is broken / frayed (less likely)
Possible Solutions
The simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back.
If the code comes back, the problem is more than likely the front Bank 1 oxygen sensor. You will likely wind up replacing it but you should also consider these possible solutions:
· Check for wiring problems (shorted, frayed wires)
· Check the voltage of the oxygen sensor
 

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P0300 code

I got the P0300 code set when the dealer changed the water pump and timing belt. It was running smoothly before they worked on it. It runs rough at idle, and surges with power as the rpm increases. I pulled the Jetchip out, and it still throughs the same code. The exhaust sounds louder with the Jetchip in. The valve train seems louder since the work was done at the dealer. Maybe they tightened the belt to tight? It makes the sound of a belt or bearing whining a little bit. It has a loud whistle from the exhaust with heavy acceleration. May have and idea what that is, but will find out on Friday, when the exhaust is changed with Flomasters and full dual exhaust, if it's the poor patch weld that was added to make it look like it has dual exhaust. Happen to have a pair of Flowmasters with H pipe already together from a Mustang that someone crashed into in front of our house, while it was parked. I just replaced the spark plugs recently. I only got about 12.3 MPG in town and about 14.8 MPG on HWY. I added some air to the tires, and it jumped up to about 16.? MPG on HWY.
I'm guessing the dealer damaged the camshaft position sensor or something. I hope they can figure it out and fix it. Not sure if cat's are bad or not. But I will have to wait for the dealer to fix the other problem for now, then I will drop the exhaust to check it. Maybe it's the cats? They are on this list below as one of the posible problems. I guess I need to check the O2 sensors to. But shouldn't the computer pick up on that?
Well, enough for now.
Thanks,
Mark
 

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since they change the timing belt, my guess will be bad timing. dealer definitely need to repair the mess they made. i suggest to wait for the car to be repaired to reinstall the jetchip just in case.
 

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since they change the timing belt, my guess will be bad timing. dealer definitely need to repair the mess they made. i suggest to wait for the car to be repaired to reinstall the jetchip just in case.
I would agree it sounds like the timing is off.
 

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I figured I would leave the Jetchip out, so they don't see it and try to say that's causing it. On Friday, I'm going to the muffler shop to get the dual exhaust put in. It already has a tail pipes y out to two, but it's single up the middle. I just happened to have a pair of Flowmasters from a Mustang that someone decided to crash into while it was park in from of our house. It has the H pipe already on it. So Hopefully it shouldn't cost too much. It's hard to believe the dealer could make such a mistake without catching it before it left the shop. When you start it, it runs rough. Don't they test drive before releasing it as fixed? Thanks for the input.
 

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Why is nobody saying this. Throw that jet chip in the garbage before it ruins your car, and get yourself a Predator instead. Good luck with getting your car fixed.
 

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Found out today that they tried to replace the belt tension pulley, but the company that covers the extended warranty, that I purchased when I bought the car, did not want to pay for that. They said, we are already replacing the timing belt, that they say was damage due to the coolant leaking on it, we don't want to pay for the pulley. Well, they are now paying for the pulley, and of course, to R & R it, while they could have saved money by paying for it when is was already apart. And they got to pay for another day of car rental. Enterprise did not want to give me the Charger for the $35, but I got the Avenger. I did my homework when I thought I was going to have to pay for it myself, I bought the kit with the water pump, timing belt and tension pulley. Now I need to sell it, or return it. But if I return it, I lose shipping cost and 15% restocking fee. Just hope it's done before I need to leave for my doctor appointment tomorrow. Not sure what time the rental needs to he in.
 

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Why is nobody saying this. Throw that jet chip in the garbage before it ruins your car, and get yourself a Predator instead. Good luck with getting your car fixed.
Okay, I found one on Ebay, I just have to wait for that tax return in a couple days. Then I will sell the jetchip on ebay. lol
After another look, I found one that accepts bill me later, so it's on it's way already.
 

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Got it back today from the dealer. It doesn't idle rough any more, but when accelerating, it seems to surge a few times as it accelerates. I have only had this car just over a month, so I'm not sure what is normal. But there is a whistle in the exhaust with heavy acceleration. It's been doing that since I bought it. I'll be taking it to the muffler shop next week, for the full duel setup.
 

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The whistle was fixed with the new exhaust setup. The whistle was caused by the point where someone welded on a Y from the stock exhaust, but the hole was smaller than the added pipe. Now it has full duel exhaust. The undercarriage is a bit dirty though. It sounds really good outside. It's not too bad inside, but at certain RPM + Throttle position, the acoustics vibrate allot inside. I just accelerate a little more or less, and it goes away. Cruising is about the same as it was inside as it was before. I'm just waiting for my Predator so I can adjust the tuning, including calibrate speedometer for the 20" wheels. Tom Tom says the speedo is 2 MPH off/slow. So I guess the previous owner never had it calibrated.
 

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My 2007 did this after replacing the spark plugs. My mechanic found that the blue gasket on the intake tube(near firewall on driver side) that plugs into the intake was either bad or was damaged upon removal or re-install. Replaced this gasket and everything seems fine now.
 

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That blue ring is junk. It fell off when I changed my spark plugs. I found it on the ground after the fact. It didn't wont to run without it. I put some silicon tape on it, then once it was together, I rapped the silicon tape around the connection on the back of the intake manifold.
 

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