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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
well even though I was scared to do it and ive been scared every single day for the past week...I just finished driving around for 7 full days with fuse#14 pulled. With the exception of a 70 mile highway trip it was all city driving and I didn't experience any problem..well none that I know of anyway (knock on wood) What I did experience was a completely different car! Wow!!! Once I confirm for sure it's not an issue..it's going to be expensive on rear tires! I put the fuse back in today though because I could swear I could hear a faint noise coming from the front end. But maybe I'm just being paranoid because 5 others couldn't hear anything!
 

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definitely advise on this... I hate the AWD at 40 degrees... Here in Colorado it is 40 degrees every friggin morning....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
definitely advise on this... I hate the AWD at 40 degrees... Here in Colorado it is 40 degrees every friggin morning....
Well its been 2 weeks and no issues so far! At this point I dont expect any. I sure as hell didnt want to be the guinea pig on this one but I had to try. Seems like its all good! :TU:
 

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was your "Brake" light along with the ABS, FCW, AWD Service and ESC lights?
 

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Sounds good! Just wasn't sure about the brake light. Driving autostick with RWD is awesome! To bad there is no defeat for the AWD besides this, so we could do it on the fly.
 

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I tried this. When I pulled fues #48, my traction control light came on and I couldn't use my cruise control. So I tried pulling fuse #14. When I pulled this fuse, my ABS light, traction control light, and AWD service light came on plus no cruise control. I drive alot of highway miles, so it was not the route for me. Is this the same thing you experienced?
 

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Did not try the cruise yet. I'm sure it is the same though.
 

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Cruise is disabled by this as well. After owning my AWD '12 RT Plus since April 9th, and reading all these forums about fuse #14, I finally just went out a few minutes ago and tried it. Yeah, definately glad I got the AWD. haha. If I had gone with RWD, my cost in tires every few months would be TERRIBLE!! :p The AWD is whats keeping me in check lol.

Was definately a different feel. I liked it alot, but definately appreciate now what the AWD does for me.
 

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This threat might just shed light on my issues. Since I got my 11 RT AWD in october, my dash lights up like a christmas tree intermittently on its own. All the indicators mentioned in this thread and cruise control not working. It goes in and out during a trip or just when sitting idle during a break. I've been into the dealer on it twice. Both times they blamed the recall on the door handles. Still not fixed after two replacements. Sounds like there might be something wrong with the fuses! I'm going to mention this next time I bring it in. Very annoying! (When not intended anyway!).
 

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Guys, just curious, why are you pulling fuse #14 and not #48 (or forty whatever it is) as it that one only disables FCW, ACC, CC, TC, along with AWD. You can at least keep your ABS that way.

Also the only thing that no one has been able to confirm is whether or not the axle is still being cooled when this fuse or the other is pulled.
 

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This threat might just shed light on my issues. Since I got my 11 RT AWD in october, my dash lights up like a christmas tree intermittently on its own. All the indicators mentioned in this thread and cruise control not working. It goes in and out during a trip or just when sitting idle during a break. I've been into the dealer on it twice. Both times they blamed the recall on the door handles. Still not fixed after two replacements. Sounds like there might be something wrong with the fuses! I'm going to mention this next time I bring it in. Very annoying! (When not intended anyway!).
There is a new recall JUST for this. MR10, I think. Search threads recently for "recall"
 

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Guys, just curious, why are you pulling fuse #14 and not #48 (or forty whatever it is) as it that one only disables FCW, ACC, CC, TC, along with AWD. You can at least keep your ABS that way.

Also the only thing that no one has been able to confirm is whether or not the axle is still being cooled when this fuse or the other is pulled.

+1 If there is an "oil slinger" type device driven by the front input shaft... could spell long term trouble... use with caution. We need MB tech on here, LOL (seriously...). The front axle is a direct take off from either the C or E class 4matic's, can't remember which. The ring/pinion diameter seems small for the power level of our cars. Are there different front axle gear sets available? Even if through MB? Seems nobody knows. And the fluid capacity of that front axle is abymismal. I've changed my front diff fluid out once so far, and the factory fill looked heavily loaded with gear break in material. "Filled for Life", mmmmmkay....
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Guys, just curious, why are you pulling fuse #14 and not #48 (or forty whatever it is) as it that one only disables FCW, ACC, CC, TC, along with AWD. You can at least keep your ABS that way.

Also the only thing that no one has been able to confirm is whether or not the axle is still being cooled when this fuse or the other is pulled.
Good question..?? Ill switch it out to 48 tomorrow..thanks. As for as the cooling goes..Ive heard this concern before and in no way am I saying its not a valid one..Ive yet to hear why its a concern in the first place. What is the relationship with either of these fuses and cooling? Any shed you can light would be appreciated.

So far..no issues!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
+1 If there is an "oil slinger" type device driven by the front input shaft... could spell long term trouble... use with caution. We need MB tech on here, LOL (seriously...). The front axle is a direct take off from either the C or E class 4matic's, can't remember which. The ring/pinion diameter seems small for the power level of our cars. Are there different front axle gear sets available? Even if through MB? Seems nobody knows. And the fluid capacity of that front axle is abymismal. I've changed my front diff fluid out once so far, and the factory fill looked heavily loaded with gear break in material. "Filled for Life", mmmmmkay....
Not sure if im misinformed but to the best of my knowledge..the front input shaft automatically disconnects when not needed...so pulling the fuse is no different! Yes? No?
 

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Not sure if im misinformed but to the best of my knowledge..the front input shaft automatically disconnects when not needed...so pulling the fuse is no different! Yes? No?
This is how I originally understood how it works. While I had my car at my local performance shop getting an oil change, the tech's brother that was working on my car stopped by and he happened to be a MB tech himself. Our cars' AWD system and axle are not exactly the same as the 4matic and E-class but very close. The transfer case can only handle a maximum of 450whp. The MB tech was explaining to me how it worked, but even he was not 100% if pulling the fuse completely disengaged all functioning components of the system. "All" is the key word here. It might be exactly as you described it above, but until I'm sure, I'm not doing it on a regular basis. Once in a while I will, but my plans to install a switch inside car are on hold until we figure this out.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
This is how I originally understood how it works. While I had my car at my local performance shop getting an oil change, the tech's brother that was working on my car stopped by and he happened to be a MB tech himself. Our cars' AWD system and axle are not exactly the same as the 4matic and E-class but very close. The transfer case can only handle a maximum of 450whp. The MB tech was explaining to me how it worked, but even he was not 100% if pulling the fuse completely disengaged all functioning components of the system. "All" is the key word here. It might be exactly as you described it above, but until I'm sure, I'm not doing it on a regular basis. Once in a while I will, but my plans to install a switch inside car are on hold until we figure this out.
This is the best description of the system Ive found so far:

http://www.gearsmagazine.com/view.ashx?article=c8392265-8859-49e6-b364-0e60e6fe773a

As far as cooling goes..it says:

"This BW44-40 transfer case uses a special MOPAR transfer case lubricant (p/n 68049954AA). The BW44-40 transfer case contains an oil pump
to circulate gear lube throughout the transfer case and provide clutch cooling. The Drive Train Control Module monitors the temperature of the transfer case with a temperature sensor and is capable of disengaging the all-wheel"

If true..there should be no issue with the cooling.

And ya..a switch would be ideal for sure!! But for now..and Im not saying there isnt going be an issue...I have been driving hard for the past six weeks with it disconnected! So time will tell I guess.
drive system if transfer case temperature exceeds recommended limits
 
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