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Discussion Starter #1
Hey y'all, i recently acquired a 2012 Charger R/T AWD and started to do some research on what mods do the best for these vehicles. I have not found any real info on how much rwhp a full bolt on R/T puts down. By full bolt on i mean cold air intake, cat back, headers, intake manifold, throttle body, tuner/tune etc. "bolt on" power adders do not count! :hah:Also curious to see what a full bolt on plus a cam car would put down. Youtube has plenty of charger dyno videos but majority of the videos do not have specs listed (a dyno video is pretty much useless unless numbers and specs are known!) Obviously it would be nice to just slap on a supercharger and call it a day but at 6K+ for the kit and even though i would be doing the install myself that is a chunk of change i doubt i would be able to afford (I would have to believe that i am not the only one in this group lol). It would also be nice to actually see some dyno verified info/break down on mods for these cars... for example:
Cat back exhaust - 10-15rwhp/20 ft lbs
CAI- 10rwhp/10 ft lbs
Throttle body - 5-10rwhp

I had a ls1 Camaro and there was plenty of break down lists that were verified numbers for the ls1 motor but i don't seem to find any for newer 5.7 hemi's. I did happen to find some good dyno #'s for meth injection for these motors (which by the way these motors seem to do well with) but not much for a break down on how much power was gained by each individual mod. Just thought this would be a good list to make up, as the first thing people ask when talking about modifications is what type of realistic/real power can be had these mod's will get them.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
After doing some research and looking on various forums, watching various videos, looking at various dyno sheets i have came up with some REALISTIC rwhp figures for your basic bolt on mod's for these newer 2010-2014 5.7 Hemi's. What i did is wrote down the numbers i collected from various dyno sheets/videos/posts and made a close average out of all the data i collected. Now obviously there is alot of factors that play a role in what YOUR vehicle may put down on a dyno (temp., elevation, type of dyno, vehicle mileage etc.) but i believe these to be a good ball park number. Remember this is a average of what i have collected, some brands may perform better then others and these are peak numbers/gains. So far this is what i have got:

Cold air intakes (any name brand)- 10rwhp/10 ft lbs (readings varied from only 5rwhp gains to upwards of 15rwhp)

Cat back exhaust system - 15rwhp (readings varied from only 10rwhp gains upwards of 25rwhp)

Long tube headers - 10-15rwhp WITHOUT a tune and 20-25rwhp WITH a tune.
A tune is really a must have when installing long tube headers to truly get the power out of your car/without a tune well they help it wont make as much as a huge difference if you install a tune with the headers (obviously you will get more rwhp out of installing long tube headers if you have other mod's already installed like a cat back, intake etc) Some have reported upwards of 30rwhp when there installed on a vehicle that already has basic bolt ons.

Shorty headers - 5-10rwhp looks like typical gain for these, with a tune you should see the higher end of the gains and possibly slightly more.

Tuner - 5-10rwhp on a stock vehicle, 20-25rwhp on a full bolt on vehicle (this is using a canned 93 octane tune, a custom or dyno tune will gain you more power and more then likely a better power band). This was a hard one as the data varied alot. On a stock vehicle some have reported gains slightly higher then 10rwhp, also on a full bolt on vehicle some have gained as little as 15rwhp but have also been as high as around 30rwhp.

SRT 6.4 intake manifold swap - 15-20rwhp seems to be the norm on a vehicle with bolt ons.

This is what i have collected so far, i wouldn't take it to heart but based on my research they seem to be fair numbers. Just trying to get an idea myself as what type of real world gains can be had and to help out anyone looking to start modifying there charger. If anyone has any suggestions or want to share there results/gains from mod's please be free! I will add prices when i get a chance to what these mod's typical cost to help out anyone looking to know about what to expect to pay.
 

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You are in good shape with late model heads. Start with 6.4 intake, 6.1 exhaust manifolds
dont have experience with long tubes. Cat back exhaust and hi flow cats. Installing a high perf cam is expensive if you dont do the labor. I modified my 2006 R/T - the only stock piece is the block. Looking back I wish I had a stroker engine or super charger. My car runs great but its an addition to go faster.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Honestly i would absolutely LOVE to supercharge the charger but building it N/A makes the most sense as far as being affordable. Seems like the 6.4 intakes can be had for a decent price on ebay so not to expensive. I will probably go the long tube header route, but being AWD i believe i am limited on selection. A stroker motor will be awesome! but man talk about $$$, coming from modifying diesel trucks (which are by far much more expensive then cars) building a Mopar motor isn't far behind! :O I was also looking at the Comp cam which seems like a decent price and is relatively a pretty good hp to $ ratio if you do the labor yourself, either that or a SRT Cam. I wonder why type of 1/4 mile times can be had with a full bolt on/cammed car? i would have to imagine you could get pretty deep into the 12s? Personally i probably wont go crazy with my Charger as it is my year round DD but i can never leave anything i own stock... Stock is to boring :hah:

You are in good shape with late model heads. Start with 6.4 intake, 6.1 exhaust manifolds
dont have experience with long tubes. Cat back exhaust and hi flow cats. Installing a high perf cam is expensive if you dont do the labor. I modified my 2006 R/T - the only stock piece is the block. Looking back I wish I had a stroker engine or super charger. My car runs great but its an addition to go faster.
 

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I went the route you are considering with the cam etc with my last car. I had a chance at the time to get a supercharger for a very good price but I opted for the cam and headers and hi flo cats. I used a Comp Cams cam and the one I went with was way way to much for the street as it was impossible to drive it even though the car was a five speed stick. Anything under about 1600 rpm was driving the herky jerky car. I realized that I would have been either better off at the time with going with the supercharger which would have given me more power and been more streetable or just have traded the car in on a newer more powerful model.
Most of the things you are considering are easy and with a tuner you will get their max gains if you get a good custom tune for your car. If you go the cam route than you might have to go with a new TCM to allow the car to rev higher without going into limp mode and throwing a code. Usually with a cam you need to do gears and a torque converter if the car is an automatic.
Good luck with your car and enjoy. Keep us posted on your progress.
 

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You would be lucky to get over 400 RWHP with all bolt ons. Cam is going to be what puts your over the 400 mark.
 
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Cam shorties dyno tune thats the best bang for the buck for the 5.7 sense your awd the tcase can only handle so much awd in these cars are more for safty than performance. Bolt ons may give you 10-20 more over stock on any car if your lucky shops and magazines like to post that stuff because it makes money nothing more
 

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talking from experience and being in a charger club, i have seen people with full bolts on and 392 cam get up to 430 Wheel HP and they even beat stock SRT's and camaro's SS.

one guy has full bolts on, with a 392 cam and nitrous, that thing is a rocket. makes the srt's soft lol
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I was thinking of around 400rwhp with full bolt ons and a cam but 430 is pretty darn good! Do you happen to know exactly what mods they have? and if they have any dyno sheets? I would be curious to see what type of power band they have. Granted long tubes and the cam swap is some $ alone just in parts but i think it would be well worth it if your doing the labor yourself to gain 80+rwhp and with the 392 cam is would still be very daily driver friendly. Of course if you have the $ for the amount of labor to put in a cam you could have a supercharger kit bolted on...

talking from experience and being in a charger club, i have seen people with full bolts on and 392 cam get up to 430 Wheel HP and they even beat stock SRT's and camaro's SS.

one guy has full bolts on, with a 392 cam and nitrous, that thing is a rocket. makes the srt's soft lol
 

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Hey,

Yeah the mods he had were:

Borla S-type cat back
Kooks 1 3/4 long tube headers
cattless mid pipes
392 cam
afe stage 2 CAI
catch can
dyno tune
NGK Spark plugs
shift points raised to 6400 if im not mistaken. maybe 6300.

and thats all.


I was thinking of around 400rwhp with full bolt ons and a cam but 430 is pretty darn good! Do you happen to know exactly what mods they have? and if they have any dyno sheets? I would be curious to see what type of power band they have. Granted long tubes and the cam swap is some $ alone just in parts but i think it would be well worth it if your doing the labor yourself to gain 80+rwhp and with the 392 cam is would still be very daily driver friendly. Of course if you have the $ for the amount of labor to put in a cam you could have a supercharger kit bolted on...
 

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welcome. in the spring i will have my "full bolt on" awd car done. with just a cai, 180 degree thermostat, 3k stall torqu converter, and stage 2 valve body i was putting down 328 hp and 347 tq on awd mode. this winter we'll be installing:
ported 392 intake manifold
ported throttle body
american racing long tube headers with HF cats (this are the only long tubes that fit AWD cars just FYI)
LMI 392 CAI


i already installed a zoomers exhaust so that will help with the dyno tune as well. car won't be ready until april more than likely but i will post dyno sheets then. only thing missing will be a cam which i'm not sure if i will do or not. probably going to start saving but for suspension parts after this work.
 

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I have seen on E-bay stroker kits for my 5.7 block for 2500. Im sure I have to get it balanced. Supercharger would be great but that has to be about 6500. Then comes in will stock short block take boost? Friday night I did two passes at a drag strip - 40 degree weather -no traction at all -13.5 at 106. If I got a stroker kit with all the mods I have done and got into the deep 12s -I would be happy.
 

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I love reading this stuff , I have been out of the car game for a long time until I got my 100th anniversary RT a few months ago . I have been racing a stroked 1441cc Hayabusa for the past 6 years and when I run a 8.4 all I can think of is a 7.9 lol
 

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Discussion Starter #15
From what i have gathered is running 500-525rwhp is the top of the "safe" limit on a stock short block. Of course it all depends on the tuning and the way the car is driven... but that seems to be the norm as a limit on a stock shortblock. Granted some people have made them live just fine at higher HP levels. I am in the same boat i would love to have a fun daily driver that is capable of running mid to low 12s. Soon as i get the new turbo/fuel system for my truck i will be in the real deep low 12s and possible into the 11s so i want the charger to be in/around the same ball park. If they would have made a SRT AWD charger i would have bought that! lol

I have seen on E-bay stroker kits for my 5.7 block for 2500. Im sure I have to get it balanced. Supercharger would be great but that has to be about 6500. Then comes in will stock short block take boost? Friday night I did two passes at a drag strip - 40 degree weather -no traction at all -13.5 at 106. If I got a stroker kit with all the mods I have done and got into the deep 12s -I would be happy.
 

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2014 Dodge Durango RT RWD
• Stage .5 HL v2 205/222 which includes .625 rpm lift springs, chromoly retainers, custom locators, shims, hardened pushrods full set of hellcat lifters
• CNC Ported Heads.
• 6.4 srt headers X Pipe, Blastin Bob's Glasspacks 4 Inch Tips
• K&N intake (had no heat shield)
• ATI 918486 Super Damper
• 2800 Stall Converter
• 20x9 Hellcat Rep
• Stant 180 Thermostat
• Toyo Proxes ST III 285/50/20
• ECM and VCM Custom Tune
• Stock 289RWHP After 370RWHP
(71hp drivetrain loss)
Suspension
• Bilstein Front Shocks
• Bwoody Front Sway Bar Links and Ball Joints Rear Sway Bar Links and Lower Control Arms
• Front SPC Camber Kit
 

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2014 Dodge Durant RT RWD
• Stage .5 HL v2 205/222 which includes .625 rpm lift springs, chromoly retainers, custom locators, shims, hardened pushrods full set of hellcat lifters
• CNC Ported Heads.
• 6.4 srt headers X Pipe, Blastin Bob's Glasspacks 4 Inch Tips
• AFE Intake
• ATI 918486 Super Damper
• 2800 Stall Converter
• 20x9 Hellcat Rep
• Stant 180 Thermostat
• Toyo Proxes ST III 285/50/20
• ECM and VCM Custom Tune
• Stock 289RWHP After 370RWHP
(71hp drivetrain loss)
Suspension
• Bilstein Front Shocks
• Bwoody Front Sway Bar Links and Ball Joints Rear Sway Bar Links and Lower Control Arms
• Front SPC Camber Kit
If you put then only 289RWHP stock on an eagle hemi, there was something wrong. 320hp is the normal area give to take 5-/+
 
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