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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so I've been reading numerous post about others with similar problems as to mine. This past summer I was pulling into a parking space and the car just completely died. I sat there for a few minutes trying to get it to crank up and nothing. It would turn over but not start. So went on in the store for about 10 minutes came out and it started. When it started the check engine light and traction control light were both on. So I had a few more errands to run and when I got to the last stop the car died again. Sat there for 20 minutes trying to start it. It eventually started and I decided to drive it to Advance to have them put the machine on it. It kicked out the codes for crankshaft and camshaft sensors. So I drove it on home where when I tried to start it after shutting it off so my dad could see what I was talking about it did absolutely nothing. But still turning over. So we replaced the crankshaft sensor, plugs and put a new battery in it and it still wouldn't start. We took the front off to make sure the timing belt was fine and it hadn't jumped time and everything checked out perfectly. After 2 weeks of sitting there someone told me to replace the starter relay. I did and it started. But the issue I'm still having is the check engine light and traction control light still on. When you start the car there is a delay and it makes this awful noise like it doesn't want to start but after the second time of trying to start it, it will fire up. Now the major issue is when you reach speeds between 50 mph and 70 mph the car will start jerking unless you maintain a constant speed of for an example 55. The cruise control will not work now. The car will jerk for a little bit until you decrease your speed. Also it feels like when you reach those speeds and let off the gas when you press the accelerator it feels like something maybe wrong with the fuel pump. Both fuel pumps have been checked and are working. Like you really have to press the accelerator to get your speed back up. I've been dealing with this issue since June of 2015. 3 mechanics have looked at it and no one seems to know what the problem is. The crankshaft sensor has been replaced twice and I'm still getting the code for it. Even after disconnecting the battery the lights immediately come back on. I'm in need of help because it's time for inspection and it will not pass.
 

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The crankshaft sensor has been replaced twice
Have the camshaft sensors been replaced?
.
 

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I'm having a similar problem, but seems I got mine under control since finding small amount of water in lower trunk area. Where the donut is next to the battery and fuse box. I believe the codes were being thrown as fuse box got wet and threw all kinds of codes. Put me in limp mode or just wouldn't start. U0101, 2098, 2096, bas/esp was acting up. Then let it sit for some time to dry out..remove 11 fuse from front fuse for a couple min. Cleaned up water and sealed the rubber on trunk. All is normal again. But I had a hell of a week trying to find what my possesed car wanted. Maybe this will help, my advise check wiring/fuses in trunk.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
No we already checked for water damage in the trunk and everything checked out fine. I took it to a shop that only deals with dodge and Chrysler. He listened to my problems and had me to start it and all that stuff and told me my problem is in the engine but the kicker is he isn't going to be able to get to mine until the middle of next week. I wish it was something as simple as a fuse but we've replaced both cam and crankshaft sensors, plugs, new battery. Just praying it's nothing major and it doesn't cost me an arm, leg, lung and kidney.
 

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No we already checked for water damage in the trunk and everything checked out fine. I took it to a shop that only deals with dodge and Chrysler. He listened to my problems and had me to start it and all that stuff and told me my problem is in the engine but the kicker is he isn't going to be able to get to mine until the middle of next week. I wish it was something as simple as a fuse but we've replaced both cam and crankshaft sensors, plugs, new battery. Just praying it's nothing major and it doesn't cost me an arm, leg, lung and kidney.
  1. Did you even find the problem? I have the exact same issue
 

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Having the same problem too. I've changed both the camshaft and crankshaft position sensors and the egr valve, I also cleaned the throttle body reprogrammed the steering angle sensor and the throttle position sensor.
 

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Good luck
 

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Has anyone found out the issue with this? I am having same issue. Replaced the water pump and did the timing 3 times and it is on point. Replaced the camshaft sensor 2 times. Replaced both ABS fuses.
 

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Has anyone figured this out?. I am having the exact same problem.
I had the same problem it was one of my coil packs. Before I changed it it wouldn’t let me drive over 50. But I could drop in to manual mode and it would let me jump past 50. When I would come to a stop or slow down out of manual it would try to shut off. Sure enough it was the 3rd coil. I changed it reset the check engine light and it went off and started running like normal. But this also happened right after I had to change my alternator and battery.
 

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So your was doing the same thing ? Track light and engine light on and throwing cam and crank sensor codes ? Mine been doing this crap and I can’t not figure it out I’m guessing bad pcm
Yes same exact thing. After replacing the camshaft sensor in bank B. The car was running fine both light went off on their own once I replaced it. Now with these cars some parts have to be OEM/Mopar standard. A few examples and problems from experience. Thermostat, Oil pressure sensor, pcv valve. Tried using cheaper parts like from local auto part stores they didn’t work. Some of these parts are cheaper at the dealership.
 

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Has anyone found out the issue with this? I am having same issue. Replaced the water pump and did the timing 3 times and it is on point. Replaced the camshaft sensor 2 times. Replaced both ABS fuses.
You can tell if it’s the water pump or oil pressure sensor. When they are bad they will make a weird humming alarm sound. I have replaced almost everything.
 

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So your was doing the same thing ? Track light and engine light on and throwing cam and crank sensor codes ? Mine been doing this crap and I can’t not figure it out I’m guessing bad pcm
Hello did you ever find a solution to your issues I’m dealing with the same thing on a 2014 challenger that I just bought used. It kick the code P0394 and hill assist lights and traction control comes on along with check engine but I’ve replaced camshaft sensors twice and got an oil
Change to see if that would help. It will run good for a while then back on again.
 

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Ok so I've been reading numerous post about others with similar problems as to mine. This past summer I was pulling into a parking space and the car just completely died. I sat there for a few minutes trying to get it to crank up and nothing. It would turn over but not start. So went on in the store for about 10 minutes came out and it started. When it started the check engine light and traction control light were both on. So I had a few more errands to run and when I got to the last stop the car died again. Sat there for 20 minutes trying to start it. It eventually started and I decided to drive it to Advance to have them put the machine on it. It kicked out the codes for crankshaft and camshaft sensors. So I drove it on home where when I tried to start it after shutting it off so my dad could see what I was talking about it did absolutely nothing. But still turning over. So we replaced the crankshaft sensor, plugs and put a new battery in it and it still wouldn't start. We took the front off to make sure the timing belt was fine and it hadn't jumped time and everything checked out perfectly. After 2 weeks of sitting there someone told me to replace the starter relay. I did and it started. But the issue I'm still having is the check engine light and traction control light still on. When you start the car there is a delay and it makes this awful noise like it doesn't want to start but after the second time of trying to start it, it will fire up. Now the major issue is when you reach speeds between 50 mph and 70 mph the car will start jerking unless you maintain a constant speed of for an example 55. The cruise control will not work now. The car will jerk for a little bit until you decrease your speed. Also it feels like when you reach those speeds and let off the gas when you press the accelerator it feels like something maybe wrong with the fuel pump. Both fuel pumps have been checked and are working. Like you really have to press the accelerator to get your speed back up. I've been dealing with this issue since June of 2015. 3 mechanics have looked at it and no one seems to know what the problem is. The crankshaft sensor has been replaced twice and I'm still getting the code for it. Even after disconnecting the battery the lights immediately come back on. I'm in need of help because it's time for inspection and it will not pass.
I have a problem with my 2009 2.7 dodge charger it said camshaft so I change it and the crankshaft sensor too just in case and the cables for the crankshaft too . And nothing.. it still on. What else should I do.. I have your problem too
 

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Yes same exact thing. After replacing the camshaft sensor in bank B. The car was running fine both light went off on their own once I replaced it. Now with these cars some parts have to be OEM/Mopar standard. A few examples and problems from experience. Thermostat, Oil pressure sensor, pcv valve. Tried using cheaper parts like from local auto part stores they didn’t work. Some of these parts are cheaper at the dealership.
I have a problem with my 2009 2.7 dodge charger it said camshaft so I change it and the crankshaft sensor too just in case and the cables for the crankshaft too . And nothing.. it still on. What else should I do..
 

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Yes same exact thing. After replacing the camshaft sensor in bank B. The car was running fine both light went off on their own once I replaced it. Now with these cars some parts have to be OEM/Mopar standard. A few examples and problems from experience. Thermostat, Oil pressure sensor, pcv valve. Tried using cheaper parts like from local auto part stores they didn’t work. Some of these parts are cheaper at the dealership.
I have a problem with my 2009 2.7 dodge charger it said camshaft so I change it and the crankshaft sensor too just in case and the cables for the crankshaft too . And nothing.. it still on. What else should I do..
Hello did you ever find a solution to your issues I’m dealing with the same thing on a 2014 challenger that I just bought used. It kick the code P0394 and hill assist lights and traction control comes on along with check engine but I’ve replaced camshaft sensors twice and got an oil
Change to see if that would help. It will run good for a while then back on again.
I have a problem with my 2009 2.7 dodge charger it said camshaft so I change it and the crankshaft sensor too just in case and the cables for the crankshaft too . And nothing.. it still on. What else should I do..
 

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Hello did you ever find a solution to your issues I’m dealing with the same thing on a 2014 challenger that I just bought used. It kick the code P0394 and hill assist lights and traction control comes on along with check engine but I’ve replaced camshaft sensors twice and got an oil
Change to see if that would help. It will run good for a while then back on again.
 

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I have had the same issue with my challenger. I have hinted through all the forums looking for the answer. I replaced both camshaft sensors, checked the wiring for oil or signs of wear, changed the exhaust camshaft phaser, checked the timing, changed the oil and now the code has come on twice in the last 6 months vs staying on. My fuel mileage got better and it runs better, but I'm still battling with it. My next step is to change the oil control valve.
 

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I had this similar problem on an '06 Charger SXT. It'd be running great then the lights would come on and it was like it died. But, it didn't, it just went to idle. Figured out I could shut the car off while still driving, pop it in Neutral, hit the key and it'd start right back up and run fine for maybe a day or two. Would lose cruise control and couldn't go over 50mpg too.
The throttle on these is electronically driven, no cable or linkage. Therefore, they put several safety overrides into the system. There are 3 circuits from the throttle pedal to the throttle body. Circuit "C", "D", & "E" I think it is. "C" goes from the pedal to the engine. "D" goes from the engine to the pedal. Then "E" goes back to the engine again. They are all part of a redundancy system to eliminate error in a critical system. Basically they are 3 dimmer controllers like for your dash lights.
If there is any sort of discrepancy between any one of the circuits, the system goes into fail safe mode and basically shuts down. I changed the pedal on mine first as it was the cheapest(I bought it used). Was better for a day or two, then came back worse. So, I swapped out the throttle body. That fixed it. Apparently the throttle bodies are common fail items on these.
Once you replace them, or to reset/sync an existing one, you need to get in the car and turn the key to the run position but don't start it. As slow as you possibly can, push the gas pedal to the floor. As slow as you can, let up on it. This recalibrated the pedal to the throttle body. Doing it twice in a row doesn't hurt either. MAKE SURE ENGINE IS NOT RUNNING!
 
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