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This code is driving me nuts and broke at the same time. I recently bought a 07 charger with 524,000km or 328,000mi yeah that is not a typo! had P1004 and P0462 codes. Replaced srv actuator and 1004 is gone but cant seem to beat the 0462 (fuel level sensor "a" low voltage) replaced complete fuel pump unit left side ($270 from dealer + tax) cleared codes and within 15 min code is back. Purchased new right side sender ($240 + tax) plugged in before install all is good. Played with senders fuel gauge working great. Installed cleared codes it lasted 1/2hr before popping the code again and gauge hits the E. Any ideas??? I'm getting a bad headache from banging my head. Wont pass the new plug in emissions test here in Ontario with that code and cel light on. Also checked wiring at and the pcm pins for corrosion and there is none. Thanks in advance
 

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Glad you were able to resolve the problem! That's a lot of miles on a Charger!
 

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Dealing with this right now on my 09 charger, hopefully it's just an instrument cluster connection. I've replaced all the same things you have and still having the same issue. It's driving me insane, what was it that you exactly fixed for the instrument cluster connection?
 

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I've got the same code for fuel low voltage on my 2007. I'm going to start with the cluster connections. Will update with results
 

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So I had codes 0462 and 0571 present after self testing with the key. I removed the gauge cluster which was not easy, it is not designed to easily come out with the upper dash being very much in the way with its prongs for the outer bezel to seat into. While out, i manipulated the plugs by forcing the wires into the connectors (mine had three plugs). I also lightly and carefully lubed the pins on the cluster with quality Electric Grease, reinstalled and voila, codes are clear. No more Engine Light!.Now off to get a safety inspection hopefully..
 

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I have the same issue right now with my 09 Charger police package. Somedays the check engine light comes on and the fuel gauge goes down to empty. I changed the fuel pump (driver side) and gas cap twice already. I also took the cluster out of the dash & checked all connections and still having the same issue. Any other suggestions?
 

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I changed the fuel pump (driver side) and gas cap twice already. I also took the cluster out of the dash & checked all connections and still having the same issue. Any other suggestions?
The fuel level sending units and sensors are integrated with both the main (driver side) fuel pump module and the auxiliary (passenger side) fuel pump module. The instrument cluster provides a constant current source to the fuel level sending unit and monitors a return input on a fuel level sense circuit. The resistance through the fuel level sending unit increases as the fuel level falls and decreases as the fuel level rises; causing changes in the sense input voltage.

So the problem could be with the auxiliary fuel pump module or the wiring/connectors to the module.
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I just replaced the auxialiary fuel pump (passenger side) module and still having the same issue. I think it might be wiring towards the cluster. Any suggestion on how to trouble shoot the wiring or the cluster itself. Thanks.
 

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There's a self-diagnostic test will put the IC (instrument cluster) into test mode. In test mode the IC will perform an actuator test to confirm the circuitry, gauges and indicators are operating as designed. During the test the IC circuitry will position each of the gauge needles at various calibration points, illuminate each of the segments in the display unit and turn all of the indicators ON and OFF again. The test does not verify electronic message inputs to the IC or inputs to any of the electronic control modules

1. Begin the test with the ignition switch in the OFF position.
2. Depress the Electronic Vehicle Information Center (EVIC) Down / Scroll switch button on the left steering wheel spoke.
3. While still holding the Down / Scroll switch button depressed, turn the ignition switch to the ON position, but do not start the engine.
4. Release the Down / Scroll switch button.
5. The IC will simultaneously begin to illuminate all of the operational segments in the display unit and perform a bulb check of each operational LED unit indicator. The display segments and LED unit indicators remain illuminated as each gauge needle is swept to several calibration points and back. If a display segment or an LED unit indicator fails to illuminate, or if a gauge needle fails to sweep through the calibration points and back during this test, the IC must be replaced.
6. The self-diagnostic test is now complete. The IC will automatically exit the self-diagnostic test mode and return to normal operation at the completion of the test.

Note: The self-diagnostic test will be aborted if the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position, or if an electronic vehicle speed message indicating that the vehicle is moving is received over the CAN data bus during the test.

For older Chargers, that do not have the EVIC, test mode works the same except that instead of using the button on the steering wheel you use the odometer/trip odometer button ...
1. Begin the test with the ignition switch in the Off position.
2. Depress the odometer/trip odometer button.
3. While still holding the odometer/trip odometer button depressed, turn the ignition switch to the On position, but do not start the engine.
4. Release the odometer/trip odometer button.
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i did the EVIC test by using th odometer/trip button and showed DONE. not really sure what to look if the cluster is the issue on my P0462 code. i started the car, my gas needle stayed on less than half tank and the checked engine light is on again. i filled the tank two days ago and i'm sure i did not used more than half of the tank of gas. does this mean that the cluster is the issue?
 

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If the gas gauge needle moved to the Full position during the cluster test the problem is not the gauge. If the gas gauge needle didn't move to the Full position during the cluster test the problem is the instrument cluster.
P0462 is set when the fuel level sensor signal voltage goes below 0.4 of a volt for more than 90 seconds. If the fuel gauge passed the cluster test the problem could be the wiring harness/connectors; fuel level signal circuit shorted to ground or shorted to the fuel level sensor return circuit. OR terminal push out on the back of the cluster.
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Rechecked the cluster wiring harness and found nothing on wires. Put everything back and still having the same issue. One mechanic from work informed me that since I have a police package Charger, the replacemernt fuel pumps has to be for a police package Charger only. Now I'm not sure about this statement.
This issue started when the wiring (power) from the fuse towards the fuel pump relay burned inside the fuse box at the rear of my car. It also damaged the connector of the driver side fuel pump. I pieced out the wiring between the relay & the fuse and replaced the fuel pump for the 1st time. It worked for several months then her comes the check engine light for P0462 code and the fuel gauge goes down to empty. Cleared the check engine light and fuel gauge works again. Then it happened again. Did the same thing again and replaced the passenger side fuel pump. It worked for few days then check engine light comes on and fuel gauge lit up & goes empty. Two days ago while driving, engine died and managed to pull over to a parking lot. Checked the fuel pump connector, ok then looked at the fuse box at the rear, the wiring burned again including the 20 amp fuse. Fixed this wiring issue, put a 30 amp fuse, put back the both original fuel pump and works all day yesterday then today the check engine light comes on and fuel gauge empty. I was thinking it might something to do with ground since most wirings for lights and siren were cut. Not sure what to do next. Any advise will help and many thanks in advance.
 

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The battery circuit connects to the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump relay output connects to the fuel pump module. The cluster fuel level sensor signal circuits connect to the fuel pump module. There's a ground circuit from the cluster to the fuel pump module and there's another ground circuit from the fuel pump to common/chassis ground. These make up the 5 blades/contacts in the fuel pump module connector.

Burned wiring along with blown fuses indicates a short somewhere. Something is drawing an excessive amount of current. Location of fuses & relays change from MY-to-MY, but since you said the fuel pump relay is in the rear fuse box (rather than the front), I'm guessing the 20A fuse, next to the fuel pump relay, that blew was fuse #44?
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The 20 amp fuse that burned is #6 and not fuse #44 (for amplifier/sunroof if equipped on my car). I think you were right, something is drawing an excessive amount of current. I'm not really sure how or where to start on looking for the ground circuit from the cluster to the fuel pump module and fuel pump to common/chassis ground. Do you think that installing an inline fuse wire on the same wire that keeps getting affected will help with excessive current issue?
 

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Wiring has changed from MY-to-MY but for a 2009 ... if the fuel pump relay is in the rear fuse box ... fuse #6, in the rear fuse box, is the 20A fuse connecting the battery to the fuel pump relay. I would examine the fuel pump relay to see if it's overheating and possibly shorting to ground.
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Guys I to have had this problem and headache for years finally look inside the wiring harness from driver side body to driver door by the door hinge and opened up the rubber boot and found 3 broken wires in there because the wires are not long enough fixed and my problem when away for about 2 weeks and now it’s back again just saying watch for short wiring from dodge also for those of you guys changing you instrument clusters did you notice those wires run on the metal brackets in the dash and those wires are also on the short side coming up from the radio
 
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