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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am a new owner of a scat. Had an R/T years ago and used this forum back then with an old account I have no idea how to access. And the experience here was always great.

My new scat has low miles but has been sitting for awhile and I was just told that I need new shocks in the front, which Im guessing they go bad from sitting regardless how much theyre driven?? Anyway, upon buying the car I noticed some alignment issues and it needed new tires. Both have since been somewhat fixed, and I thank yous for the recommendation on the tires. I say somewhat cause I need a shock replaced in the front so the alignment can be fully set.

Where I am needing some help is figuring out which shocks/struts to buy?? I have been doing the research and many around here say to go or stay with the B6s, but thats what was on it originally (?) and what went bad a little too soon (miledge wise) for my liking. Also, im in PA where the roads are dogsh!t, and it seems as most recommendations on here come from areas where your lucky to have roads that dont have potholes that look like they been hit with meteors from outer space. So, Im looking for advise as to what system to go with when it comes to harsh roads. I realize that only one of my shocks are supposedly bad but I really dont like how the car rides in general. It seems as if it rocks like Im on a boat and it just doesnt feel securely planted to the ground like it should, so I would just like to go ahead and replace them all if theres a better option out there.

I would appreciate any suggestions anyone has as to what would be a good buy for my situation. I also tried to do some research on a good tire pressure setting for harsh roads. I realize the door says 32, but I did notice that it seems to ride better around 40. Does this make sense when driving on horrible roads? And is this where I should be pressure wise?
 

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Check your tire sidewall for max cold psi.
Remember, tires heat up when driving and will usually go up 5-7 psi over 32 when hot.
Running at 40 cold could be pushing it, plus the centers will wear quicker than the outer treads.
 

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Who determined the shock is bad? Is it leaking? Scat Packs typically ride stiffer than R/Ts. I have had Bilsteins on 2 cars and they were still fine after 6 years. Plenty of pot holes here in AZ as well. More air in the tires will cause a harsher ride.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Check your tire sidewall for max cold psi.
Remember, tires heat up when driving and will usually go up 5-7 psi over 32 when hot.
Running at 40 cold could be pushing it, plus the centers will wear quicker than the outer treads.
I meant to say I have it at about 40 hot and 36 cold.

Who determined the shock is bad? Is it leaking? Scat Packs typically ride stiffer than R/Ts. I have had Bilsteins on 2 cars and they were still fine after 6 years. Plenty of pot holes here in AZ as well. More air in the tires will cause a harsher ride.
The place that did my tires and alignment. The wear on the inside edge of the old tire was consistent with a bad shock, and upon trying to align it they couldnt get it where its suppose to be on the computer due to it being bad. I mean, thats what they told me. I was there the whole time why they were doing everything and what they were saying seem to be legit. I will say the car was badly out of alignment. The car felt like it was shifting/floating when I drove it. When they put it on the computer I seen the numbers and it was a mess. Definitely appears as someone had some fun in that car before they put it up for sale.
 

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A bad shock/strut will show as 'cupping' on a tire. If the inside wear was smooth all the way around I'd look more at alignment/steering than shocks.
If it is the shock, always replace both sides, not just one. Probably cheaper to buy the strut assemblies vs the labor charge to replace just the shocks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
A bad shock/strut will show as 'cupping' on a tire. If the inside wear was smooth all the way around I'd look more at alignment/steering than shocks.
If it is the shock, always replace both sides, not just one. Probably cheaper to buy the strut assemblies vs the labor charge to replace just the shocks.
Thats the thing, the inside wasnt smooth like the rest of the tire. It was bumping or wavy, if thats what cupping is? Also, I was looking and it seems as most brands that are "performance", dont offer an assembly in one and you have to get the coils pressed in anyway. Id prefer to just buy an assembly but not sure if I can per brand, and I do plan on replacing both, maybe all if it makes sense. Ive done a whole suspension change on my r/t awhile back so Im somewhat familiar with the process. I just want a better ride. These cars are suppose to be a big step up for a first gen r/t and it doesnt feel like it when driving, suspension wise. I will say when putting it in sport it does seem to tighten up a little. Definitely the steering does. I havent drove it much since I got it cause it felt like a death trap till I got the new tires and alignment done. Now it just feels like Im on a boat.. Ill add, its a 2015 with 10k miles. Garage kept. Everything looks new. Just something doesnt feel right with the suspension. Everything else was checked, and there is no play in anything. I would think that the boat thing would be shocks but Im no expert.
 

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Yup, that wavy bumpy tire indicates a bad shock. When I did my R/T I got Monroe OEM front strut assemblies and Bilstein rear shocks. I'm happy with the ride.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yup, that wavy bumpy tire indicates a bad shock. When I did my R/T I got Monroe OEM front strut assemblies and Bilstein rear shocks. I'm happy with the ride.
So would one bad shock cause the bad ride Im getting? Or if ones bad are they all on the verge of getting there and should be changed? Bilstens all around are oem on the scats from what I understand, so Im curious to know if all my shocks are going vs just the one that shows and replacing just the fronts will fix the issue..? Or is this just the ride a charger gives? I see your in Jersey so you understand the road issues we have in the tri-state. What is your experience road wise with what your running and how have they held up? I would think shocks dont last nowhere near as long for us, just like everything else car wise, and maybe its just time to change them already due to it sitting and philly potholes.
 

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I run stock 245/45r20s and in winter 275/40r20s (same diameter, taller sidewall) and the 275s handle the potholes better.
But our cars sit low so it's always gonna be a tradeoff on comfort.
I'd get the fronts done and a fresh alignment.
 

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Have you verified what is ion there now? Is everything stock (wheel size/offset, tries size, etc.), like from the factory, or are there mods? Nothing really wears out from sitting still. Stock Scat Packs are pretty good, except maybe a tad harsh, with the Bilstein's w/o the adjustable suspension.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Have you verified what is ion there now? Is everything stock (wheel size/offset, tries size, etc.), like from the factory, or are there mods? Nothing really wears out from sitting still. Stock Scat Packs are pretty good, except maybe a tad harsh, with the Bilstein's w/o the adjustable suspension.
Wheels are stock with brand new 275s on it. No mods done. Had an aligment done and it made a huge improvement. Has active suspension. I notice when running in sport it definitely seems to tighten up the suspension which gives me a better ride. There is no lose play in anything and it all looks as a car would with only 10k miles on it. Im now wondering if this is just how the chargers are on sub par roads, or if the roads have just gotten that much worse since I had my last charger lol. The car basically feels like its floating, feels like its going to take flight when I hit bumps. I mean, is this how the active suspension feels normal? Im also wondering if I run a tazer I can try the added street mode and see how it feels? The thing is, I dont wanna be running all these modes to "cover up" an issue if the suspension is not working as it should. I was thinking of going to a dealership and driving one they have on the lot to see if its all normal and just in my head. I just dont think it is. It just doesnt feel as if Im seated on the ground right when I drive it. And the bulk of the boat effect goes away when I jump up to sport, so if thats the case then you would think theres nothing wrong and thats just how it is, right? Cause if a shock (or something else) wasnt working properly in normal mode then why would it in sport, and Id still feel an issue? I also seen that when the active suspension has an issue you do get a light or notification which I am not getting, but is this the case electronic wise or shock wise? I would think thats just an electronic based warning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Multiple causes of cupping.
I see that now, thanks. Im leaning more towards my shock being just fine at this point, and my experience being just the way it is with the active suspension. I explained my current experiences more in my recent post.
 

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I’m in Pa right now. The roads are dogshit, but just as bad in most of the East Coast. I run 32 cold, and will put Bilsteins on when the time comes. Scatpack is significantly stiffer than the R/T.
 

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Whatever shocks you get, just make sure they don't make the front of the car sit any lower than it is. These Scat packs sit low enough to the ground as it is and we we have to be careful of any parking lot, store entrance, etc., that we drive into for fear of scraping the front apron. You don't want it sitting any lower.
 
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