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My driver side headlight started randomly going off recently, then completely failed. I assumed it was the bulb and was about to purchase some replacement HID bulbs. While searching, I found a video on YouTube of a guy with the same problem. Turns out the light wasn't bad, but the 20amp micro stubby fuses (#15 for the drivers side and #16 for passenger side) were melted. HE replaced his fuses and the lights worked, but he never explained what caused them to fail. So, I pulled fuse #15 and sure enough it was burned. I replaced it with a new replacement and my headlight works again. I don't know if anyone else has experienced this, but I wanted to share it so others can be aware of it. It's much cheaper to replace a $1.50 fuse than to replace the $68 HID bulb.
 

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HID bulbs become less efficient as they age and require progressively higher voltage to "fire". That five-year-old bulbs might start to burn fuses isn't that surprising.
 

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My driver side headlight started randomly going off recently, then completely failed. I assumed it was the bulb and was about to purchase some replacement HID bulbs. While searching, I found a video on YouTube of a guy with the same problem. Turns out the light wasn't bad, but the 20amp micro stubby fuses (#15 for the drivers side and #16 for passenger side) were melted. HE replaced his fuses and the lights worked, but he never explained what caused them to fail. So, I pulled fuse #15 and sure enough it was burned. I replaced it with a new replacement and my headlight works again. I don't know if anyone else has experienced this, but I wanted to share it so others can be aware of it. It's much cheaper to replace a $1.50 fuse than to replace the $68 HID bulb.
It's a Bad Connection from the fuse to the fuse box...you could put a little solder on the fuse to make the connection a little tighter! This is what I found when I found out that my fuses we're burning up!
 

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OK, so I'm thinking that the reason the fuses take so long to blow is because there is an initial surge of power. Not enough to blow the fuse, but over time it weakens the fuses and makes them eventually blow. Does that seem reasonable?
 

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My driver side headlight started randomly going off recently, then completely failed. I assumed it was the bulb and was about to purchase some replacement HID bulbs. While searching, I found a video on YouTube of a guy with the same problem. Turns out the light wasn't bad, but the 20amp micro stubby fuses (#15 for the drivers side and #16 for passenger side) were melted. HE replaced his fuses and the lights worked, but he never explained what caused them to fail. So, I pulled fuse #15 and sure enough it was burned. I replaced it with a new replacement and my headlight works again. I don't know if anyone else has experienced this, but I wanted to share it so others can be aware of it. It's much cheaper to replace a $1.50 fuse than to replace the $68 HID bulb.
I had the exact same experience this year with my 2015 Charger R/T Road & Track. In April, my driver-side high and low beams were inoperative regardless of switch position (ON or AUTO). On a whim I swapped fuses 15 and 16 – both of which looked fine – and the light started working again. Puzzled but satisfied, I moved on. However in June, I noticed my passenger-side headlight now exhibited the same problem. This time though, fuse 16 was warped and partially-melted, though oddly it still showed continuity. I replaced it and the headlight began working again. In my case I'm guessing the fuse was defective as my driver, then passenger, light outages seemed to follow it.
 

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It's a Bad Connection from the fuse to the fuse box...you could put a little solder on the fuse to make the connection a little tighter! This is what I found when I found out that my fuses we're burning up!
You are correct. My 2015 Charger Rallye with 38K miles does the same thing. When it happens, I just tap the fuse box and it comes back on. Through other testing (relay and fuse swaps), I've narrowed it down to a bad connection within the fuse box. I just haven't had the time to open it and do any soldering. I have a similar problem with my Adaptive Cruise Control/Accident Avoidance system randomly shutting down and telling me to clean my front radar sensor. I'm led to believe it is a similar bad connection inside the fuse box at the fuse terminal. Soon, I'll be opening up the fuse box and checking both.
 

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My driver side headlight started randomly going off recently, then completely failed. I assumed it was the bulb and was about to purchase some replacement HID bulbs. While searching, I found a video on YouTube of a guy with the same problem. Turns out the light wasn't bad, but the 20amp micro stubby fuses (#15 for the drivers side and #16 for passenger side) were melted. HE replaced his fuses and the lights worked, but he never explained what caused them to fail. So, I pulled fuse #15 and sure enough it was burned. I replaced it with a new replacement and my headlight works again. I don't know if anyone else has experienced this, but I wanted to share it so others can be aware of it. It's much cheaper to replace a $1.50 fuse than to replace the $68 HID bulb.
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! Wish I would have checked that before buying the headlights, but at least now I have a spare set...
 

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I had the same issue a while back (under warranty). Took it to the dealer, they replaced the light and of course the issue continued. I went through the fuses and saw that both of my HID fuses were melted. I brought this to the attention of the dealer. They took pictures and sent them off to FCA.
 
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