How to check timing?

Discussion in 'Dodge Charger Mechanical Problems and Questions' started by Amanda, May 13, 2017.

  1. Amanda

    Amanda New Member

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    Hey guys!
    I have a 2010 Dodge Charger ralleye 3.5L hp motor 154,986 M
    My car has been down for a few weeks inbetween moving haven't had time to mess with it

    I'm getting back fire thru the intake.
    So I've done some research and seems it can only be distributor or timing. (I may be wrong). It's a crank no start status. I've replaced crank and cam sensors no help.

    My questions are:
    1: can I check timing an easy way meaning not pulling whole front off to make sure timing didn't jump. It has cranked for a few seconds since initial death so I know belts intact.
    2: what all can cause an intake back fire?
    3: I'm getting an 08- wait to start indicator circuit open code when I do a gauge/ cluster scan. What in the world is this? I can't find any info on it.
    4: I'm thinking it may be my Throttle body sensor. When I was checking the injectors I noticed when turned to on position it makes a noise that I've never herd it do. A very loud buzzz click buzzz click when it clicks you can see it move or jump. Is this normal?

    The issue history:
    1 month ago I got in it when 1 miles stopped at stop sign and while I was sitting at idle it stalled. So hard I thought some one rear ended me!
    Took two or three tries but it cranked fine I went to store did a MIL and gauge scan nothing. Chalked it up to bad gas. My ETC and traction control lights did come on momentarily, but went off after it restarted. Ran like a top before and after this.


    2 weeks later: we just moved to 2 hrs away, that morning I got up and check fluids everything was fine got in and drove the 2 hr dr to old house. As I was climbing a hill I noticed a power loss or bog down. It caught and went. No issues again.
    Drive there ran errands and drove back. On the way back we got 1/2 way back, stopped to get gas left it running ran in store ( we have three toddlers who were sleeping it's was 2 am) came back out my car sounded diffrent like it was tire not a tick or knock just tired.
    I checked fluid temp did the key dance, nothing.

    Got in for gas (topped off) and we pulled out, got on high way one miles later my oil light came on I called my SO who was I front of me so we could pull over. Before the call went thru it died. When it died it took me 1 mile to figure out it died. It was as if I turned of key no jump no noise no light dim just light the flip of a switch. I was for sure it was dead when I lost power steering. Pulled off high way ran codes. P0340 (cam p sensor)
    p0522 (oil pressure sensor low) and P2172 ( sudden large intake of air MAS sensor) I didn't push it I called a tow truck.

    I replaced cam/ crank sensors. All codes cleared except P340 after sensor changed it came up P0340 P0340pd and would flash first 5 seconds then stay on. Had cranked and ran for a few seconds since this but nothing else. Tried jumping it off even though is a good battery think maybe it was a voltage issue but didn't work. Fuel pump working correctly. Spark is there or wouldn't back fire. Closest dealer ship is towns away. Only auto parts store dosent loan out a compression tester. Can some one help me figure this out? Any questions welcome and help appreciated! Always maintained on time every time. Never had a bit of trouble out of her until this! I have to drive an hr to get compression tool rental. But my car is down lol. Please help!
     
  2. djalbin

    djalbin Active Member

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    The new cam sensor could be defective. Some people have had issues with non-Mopar brand sensors. But even if it is defective, it's probably time to replace the timing belt anyway ... and the timing belt could be the problem.

    The 3.5L V6 has a timing belt. If the timing belt has not been replaced in 155K miles then it's time (recommended service for timing belt replacement is 105K miles). Inspect the timing belt hydraulic tensioner for fluid loss around the plunger seal. Replace the tensioner if it's leaking.
    The water pump is behind the timing belt cover too (the water pump is driven by the timing belt). So it's recommended to replace the water pump when replacing the timing belt (why go through the process twice).

    The timing belt may have stretched and slipped, or the tensioner is not holding tension ... throwing the timing out of synch. Only way to check timing is to remove the timing belt cover and inspect the alignment of the timing marks.

    Timing verification:
    Remove the outer timing covers. Rotate the crankshaft until the pointer on the crankshaft sprocket aligns the TDC mark on the oil pump. Check to determine if the camshaft sprocket timing marks are aligned with the marks on the inner timing cover. It may take an additional full revolution of the crankshaft before the camshaft sprocket marks are aligned.

    The 3.5L is NOT a freewheeling engine. Therefore, it's recommended to loosen the valve train rocker assemblies before servicing the timing drive. When aligning timing marks, always rotate engine by turning the crankshaft. If camshafts have moved from the timing marks, always rotate camshaft towards the direction nearest to the timing marks (DO NOT TURN CAMSHAFTS A FULL REVOLUTION OR DAMAGE to valves and/or pistons could result).
    .
     
  3. Amanda

    Amanda New Member

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    I posted a response I guess it didn't post. But my timing is shot. I found a donor car 82K I'm gonna do a motor swap. I'm trying to find pull steps. Do you have a link or guide to pulling the motor? I can't find anything on line? Thanks!
     
  4. djalbin

    djalbin Active Member

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    I have seen manuals online where you register (subscribe) for 30-day access, 1 year access, etc ... and other sites where you can download a PDF copy of the Service Manual. You can Google search for 2010 Dodge Charger Service Manual and see which sites you like best.
    One example is linked below. I have never purchased anything from them so I can not verify their reliability. I have purchased the same PDF on DVD from eBay (different vendor) and it was complete. I don't know of any free Dodge Charger Service Manuals.

    https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail...arger-complete-workshop-service-repair-manual

    or search eBay

    http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...kw=2010+dodge+charger+service+manual&_sacat=0

    .
     
  5. Amanda

    Amanda New Member

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    Thank you so much!
    On another note I know this may be a weird question....
    Is there any way to directly damage the timing other than wear or opening motor? Like can some one get into a car and do something specific to damage timing? Either repetitive actions to wear it down quickly or certain driving habits?
     
  6. djalbin

    djalbin Active Member

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    Timing belt wear is the primary reason. The belt can stretch and cause it to slip or the teeth on the belt can wear/crack/split and cause the belt to slip. The valve timing can only be changed by opening the engine.
    You can modify spark timing, without opening the engine, with a engine programmer (e.g. DiabloSport). The programmer plugs into the car's OBD2 port and you can install a new tune; or adjust the Spark Timing Advance/Retard of the current tune.
    .
     
  7. Amanda

    Amanda New Member

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    I mean if I let some one drive my car, can they've intentionally do something to cause timing belt failure? In the past 4 years I've had 4 vehicles have timing belt failure. Only one other person I let drive my vehicles soon after timing goes out. And all diffrent cars my charger a Acura a explorer and a pt cruiser all timing belt all stripped not busted worn not broke. I just wanna know if it's possible this person is doing it. (Either way they won't be driving mine anymore lol) I wanna know if it's just bad luck or sabotage lol
     
  8. djalbin

    djalbin Active Member

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    Stripped teeth is more common than a actual broken belt. A older belt can stretch at higher RPMs. It's possible with a older timing belt to abuse it by doing burn outs, over-revving the engine, etc ...
    It's not direct access to the timing belt but hooligan driving that may be sabotaging your timing belts. Four failures in four years, in four different cars by the same driver ... I would be suspicious too.
    .
     

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