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Discussion Starter #1
Sort of new to the forum, sorry if I miss anything but I'm not going into HEAVY detail, I figure if anyone is looking to install an amp, they should have prior knowledge on it before ripping apart a new car. I couldn't find the speaker wires for the life of me anywhere on the internet, so I'm hoping this thread can help someone out who was in my predicament. Anyone can feel free to chime in for some better tips or anything I left out, including corrections.

NOTE: I'm not 100% sure, but the wiring schematic should be the same for all models and premium sound system. For what it's worth, I have the RallyE Plus Model with Stock System 6 speaker.

The Basic stuff-

Positive 12+ - Wired straight to the battery

Negative Ground - NO Shorter than 3 feet. Wire to the battery or any
NON-painted screw on the trunk, you can find quite a few from the wires that come out of the harnesses once you lift the trunk lid.

Remote Wire 12v - This depends on the user/installer. Personally, I flipped open the fusebox right beside the battery and with a 12v tester, went through each fuse slot. I don't have a picture (or good memory) but I chose the fuse on the top right corner that says "Cigarette Lighter". Simply add your "Add-A-Circuit"

and follow instructions on the box. basically, test the 12v line first, then replace the fuse and test your cigarette lighters to ensure they still work. better safe than sorry.

Now, the LOC (Line Out Converter)

LOC

Basically you should know what this is, if not, it's a line out converter that allows you to tap into the stereo wires to get an RCA output that you need for your subs.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41mQdP8OBYL._SL500_AA300_.jpg[COLOR=black][/IMG[/COLOR][COLOR=black]][/COLOR]
You can get a fairly cheap and decent one for about $20. does the job, but if your looking for sound quality, invest in a higher cost one.

Now, since these chargers produce no bass in the rear speakers, we will need to tap into the front speakers. For the purpose of this How-To, we are also skipping the idea of wiring to the sub wires. We want a Left and Right clean channel. So snap off the driver kick panel, shouldnt take much effort, pull straight up.
[IMG]http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk300/tmc_adio07/IMAG0143.jpg

Hands and knees time. get under the steering wheel column and look to the left side of the column, straight up, and you will see a square piece of carpet held on by a plastic push-screw. just pop that piece off. Now, I found it easier to work with the emergency pedal pressed all the way down, your choice. Look under there and you will see the amp. In my case, its the alpine 6 speaker amp. You will see TWO wire harnesses. One is a small one, one is large. You are unplugging the SMALL harness.


It is circled in red. To verify you pulled the right one, turn your car to ACC mode and turn up the radio. should sound like crap, basically only the instrument speakers in the dash should be playing, which are non-amplified speakers. Once you got that done, you should now see this wire dangling right in front of you.




It has some black tape on it, slowely peel it off and the mesh wire protect should open right up.



Now, follow this diagram for the colors. We want the FRONT left and FRONT right speakers. Do NOT tap the rears! You will get very little to no bass.



Only easy way I found to tap those wires with very short amound of room to work with, was some simple t-taps. not "super" clean but hey, your saving $100 for not paying a professional for an amp install.



From here, my phone battery died, so no more pictures. Basically do everything in reverse, plug that harness back in until it clicks. test your car in ACC mode again to make SURE the speakers are all still playing. Slide your LOC somewhere in there, I found a rubber grommet with a little shelf to be perfect, got a tough double sided tape, taped it down and threw on a few zip ties. LOC converter ready to roll.

Now, just grab your RCA-to-RCA cables, and slide them under the kick panel on the driver side, should be a fair amount of room to work with, all the panels (Driver,Pillar,Backseat Driver Side) should pop up easy. then conceal those wires.

Ready to rock and roll. Wiring the sub to the amp, again, is fairly straightforward if you've got this far. Hit up the crutchfield website for a good diagram module or even someone on here could chime in for me. I'll post a completed picture of my setup tomorrow. Enjoy.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks guys. figure my first few posts should be positive and not about complaints/problems. I actually don't have the factory sub in my car and I wired up 1 12" Alpine X 1243D sub, it hits very hard man. I've had 5 cars adn this charger sounds the cleanest with high bass coming from the trunk. with the execption of standing outside the car of course....every car will rattle. dynamat fixes that fairly well.
 

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thanks guys. figure my first few posts should be positive and not about complaints/problems. I actually don't have the factory sub in my car and I wired up 1 12" Alpine X 1243D sub, it hits very hard man. I've had 5 cars adn this charger sounds the cleanest with high bass coming from the trunk. with the execption of standing outside the car of course....every car will rattle. dynamat fixes that fairly well.
i change my sub set up almost every month for carshows, i made my current box for spl, (the others where for looks), but this one i have now is killing my trunk... it is one of the worst trunks ive had to deal with and i install audio for a living.... the rattle is mostly from the LED taillight panel... im not going to line the trunk becuz i want to trade mines in for an SRT
 

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Great write up! i am new to the Z and i recently posted a "newbie" thread about my rear speakers not working, but have gotten zero useful replies. I am pasting my post below. if you can provide any info i would really appreciate it. i was just hoping for some suggestions before i start ripping everything out. (i just want to add a couple subs to my stock system to get a little boom boom for myself)

"so, i tried to run an LOC from my right rear speaker and once i got my amp and sub all hooked up there was power to the amp, but no sound from either the sub or the rear speakers. so, i unhooked everything and tried to simply re-hook the rear speaker (that i had spliced for the LOC), but there is still no signal from either of my rear speakers. It is a 2011 with the stock 6 speaker system. there was not previously any custom mods (just bought it brand new over a month ago), so i don't suspect that there is a wiring problem at the deck, but i don't know what else it could be.

This is my first post (although i have used this forum on multiple occasions since i got my ride) and i could really use some help!!!!!"

thanks,
LJB
 

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Great write up! i am new to the Z and i recently posted a "newbie" thread about my rear speakers not working, but have gotten zero useful replies. I am pasting my post below. if you can provide any info i would really appreciate it. i was just hoping for some suggestions before i start ripping everything out. (i just want to add a couple subs to my stock system to get a little boom boom for myself)

"so, i tried to run an LOC from my right rear speaker and once i got my amp and sub all hooked up there was power to the amp, but no sound from either the sub or the rear speakers. so, i unhooked everything and tried to simply re-hook the rear speaker (that i had spliced for the LOC), but there is still no signal from either of my rear speakers. It is a 2011 with the stock 6 speaker system. there was not previously any custom mods (just bought it brand new over a month ago), so i don't suspect that there is a wiring problem at the deck, but i don't know what else it could be.

This is my first post (although i have used this forum on multiple occasions since i got my ride) and i could really use some help!!!!!"

thanks,
LJB
u my have shorted it out it happen to me they had to replace the whole unit and if they find that it was u that did it it will not be covered so u are looking at 2000.00 to replace it i got lucky and had a buddy that worked at the dealer so he got mine covered the radio is not the touch screen it is under the dash and it is a computer that is vin. lock to your car good luck but the only way to find out for sure is take it to the dealer there the only 1 with the software to check it
 

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I suppose i could just tap the front speaker wires and run the rear speakers and a sub off of an amp (or amps!)........
 

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How bad is the wiring hacked? Can it be put back together without it being noticed? Personally, I would give that a shot and take it back to the dealer.

Also, if you tap the fronts, you might just ending up doing to your front outputs as was done to the rear outputs.
 

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How bad is the wiring hacked? Can it be put back together without it being noticed? Personally, I would give that a shot and take it back to the dealer.

Also, if you tap the fronts, you might just ending up doing to your front outputs as was done to the rear outputs.

not too bad. i just cut the wires about six inches from the harness and re-connected them with a wire nut (for temporary fix). i could probably connect them with a barrel-type compression connector and wrap the whole thing in electrical tape to match the rest of the wire bundle......any other "professional" suggestions, like maybe buy a new harness?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
not too bad. i just cut the wires about six inches from the harness and re-connected them with a wire nut (for temporary fix). i could probably connect them with a barrel-type compression connector and wrap the whole thing in electrical tape to match the rest of the wire bundle......any other "professional" suggestions, like maybe buy a new harness?
i would tap them back together, and black electrical tape wrap them VERY tight so that it doesn't show. chances are they aren't going to go through the trouble of getting the car set up and open the speaker to find you messed with it, then put it all back together just to tell you your out of luck. If it's RIGHT THERE in front of them, they'll probably just give it a fix and not trouble you too much.
 

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Great write up. Used it to install my audio control lc2 loc. Along with a PPI amp and RE subs.

Thanks for making it easy for all of us.
 
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