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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi I need help my check engine light and ESC light is on as well I went to auto zone it got it checked. It showed saying the the problem was the brake light switch so I replaced it. But the check engine light and ESC is still on!!
 

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What was the actual DTC (diagnostic trouble code) that was logged? What year is the car?
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Need a higher level scanner to pull ABS module codes to get more specific.
 

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P1C4E is a code saying there is an active DTC (diagnostic trouble code) stored in the ABS/ESP Module. You need a scanner that can read ABS codes to see the code stored in the ABS module. ABS codes are Cxxxx chassis codes and Uxxxx communication codes.

P0572 is logged when the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) sees the Brake Switch is stuck in the low/On position. Codes for the brake switch sensor circuit are stored in the ABS module. You're back to needing a scanner that can read ABS codes in order to get all the information needed to diagnose the problem.
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
P1C4E is a code saying there is an active DTC (diagnostic trouble code) stored in the ABS/ESP Module. You need a scanner that can read ABS codes to see the code stored in the ABS module. ABS codes are Cxxxx chassis codes and Uxxxx communication codes.

P0572 is logged when the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) sees the Brake Switch is stuck in the low/On position. Codes for the brake switch sensor circuit are stored in the ABS module. You're back to needing a scanner that can read ABS codes in order to get all the information needed to diagnose the problem.
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I also have a now horn or no driver side air bag I think my car was in a accident and I think the clock spring is also messed up but idk if that can cause the problem too. But who can I take it to to get these codes checked out even more.
 

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Defective clockspring can cause a lot problems. The wiring harness/connectors may be the problem if the repair work was not done correctly. Communications on the CAN Bus (CAN = controller area network) may be affected. A Dodge dealership or an auto collision center may be able to perform a complete diagnostic on the codes. If you're doing it yourself you will need to purchase a scanner that can read all modules/codes.
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Sounds like you may have several issues. You need a good quality scan tool that most better shops have. No horn or airbag is typically a clock spring. But since you have the brake light code that kind of rules that out to some extent. Couple that with the ETC light and it sounds like a wiring problem under the dash. May have had an alarm installed or a tracking device that wasn't removed correctly. I'd take a look under the dash for butchered wires first.
ETC is Electronic Throttle Control. Gas pedal basically. There are 3 circuits in it that must match identically or it will throw the code and shut throttle control down. Back to wiring problems most likely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Sounds like you may have several issues. You need a good quality scan tool that most better shops have. No horn or airbag is typically a clock spring. But since you have the brake light code that kind of rules that out to some extent. Couple that with the ETC light and it sounds like a wiring problem under the dash. May have had an alarm installed or a tracking device that wasn't removed correctly. I'd take a look under the dash for butchered wires first.
ETC is Electronic Throttle Control. Gas pedal basically. There are 3 circuits in it that must match identically or it will throw the code and shut throttle control down. Back to wiring problems most likely.
Thank you ima look into it this weekend. Also who should I go to for they can pull better codes instead of the stupid brake light switch code.
 

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Check around at local mechanic shops. Stay away from chain stores like Firestone and others. Get a real mechanic that's been around for awhile and has a decent reputation. I wouldn't trust a dealership very much. Getting honest answers would be a miracle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ok so I got some one to hook it up to one of those fancy code scanners it said the only problem was the brake switch circuit low still. I’m not sure if I bought the right one or a cheap Chinese one from autozone when I replaced it. Ima try to find oem one and replace it again. Also is there a right way to put it on? I’m also gonna replace my clock spring as well. Another question I have is do I really need a driver side airbag?
 

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On the drivers side airbag, everything is a whole system. If any sensor in the system doesnt work, the entire system will not function. Now, is it mandatory your have functioning air bags, no in most states. They are just an option and are not required to be functional. This could vary from state to state so check up on that.
There is an installation procedure for the brake switch, not complicated. They are adjustable for each car because of production tolerances. You can reset them, I do it all the time. But, it isn't exactly easy if you don't have mechanical skills.
The proceedure:
1. Unplug and Remove old sensor.
2. Depress brake pedal as far as you can.
3. Install new sensor.
4. Release brake pedal. During the release, it sets the brake switch for your car by pushing the plunger against a stop. This is a very sensitive setting. Do not pull up on the brake pedal or you will disturb the setting.
The plunger has ribs on it that grip against a tube internally. Once set, a small clamp holds the plunger in place. You can reset a used switch by disassembling it. You have to release the small clamp then pull the plunger back out so it can reset again. This can be a challenge on some models.
I would also try to find a wiring diagram for the switch and verify you are getting power and ground to the switch. This also controls cruise control.
 
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