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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2010 charger, yesterday I walked over to it and the key fob would work. I thought that was odd so unlocked it manually and went to start it, and nothing. No lights would come on in the cluster like they usually do or anything. So I automatically thought well the batteries dead I must of left something on. But the headlight would turn on just fine but I still tried to jump it, but nothing changed. I took the key out of the key fob and tried that and also nothing. I replaced the key in the fob and nothing changed. Seems like the car is not detecting or recognizing the key fob. I disconnected the batteries for about half an hour and connected it back up and again nothing changed. The car does not crank or anything, nothing happens at all when I turn the ignition on. Please help
 

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Okay, the standalone key shouldn't have a battery. It uses a coil around where your ignition is. It is a capacitive coil to send power to the transponder in the key like a wireless phone charger. Since both keys aren't working, either your car was reprogrammed to forget your keys (which doesn't sound likely unless you recently had a key programmer plugged into your car. ;)) or that coil could have failed. So...check your fuses. Also, does your car have a static or flashing security light on your dash? If so, what does it do when you put a key in the ignition?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Okay, the standalone key shouldn't have a battery. It uses a coil around where your ignition is. It is a capacitive coil to send power to the transponder in the key like a wireless phone charger. Since both keys aren't working, either your car was reprogrammed to forget your keys (which doesn't sound likely unless you recently had a key programmer plugged into your car. ;)) or that coil could have failed. So...check your fuses. Also, does your car have a static or flashing security light on your dash? If so, what does it do when you put a key in the ignition?
I took a quick look at te fuses and they looked good but plan on taking a better look later when I get home. The flashing light doesn’t come on, the only time the red flashing security light came on was after I reconnected the batteries. But this morning I went out to try it again and the light wasn’t flashing anymore. So nothing happens at all when I put the key in the ignition now.

This all happened a day after I checked the car hours. Someone told me to turn the ignition to the on position and hold the trip reset button for 6 seconds and it would show me the engine hours. I did this and the next day that i went to turn it on is when all this happened
 

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I took a quick look at te fuses and they looked good but plan on taking a better look later when I get home. The flashing light doesn’t come on, the only time the red flashing security light came on was after I reconnected the batteries. But this morning I went out to try it again and the light wasn’t flashing anymore. So nothing happens at all when I put the key in the ignition now.

This all happened a day after I checked the car hours. Someone told me to turn the ignition to the on position and hold the trip reset button for 6 seconds and it would show me the engine hours. I did this and the next day that i went to turn it on is when all this happened
Hmm... weird... Let me know what happens.
 

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Sounds like you may have two different issues here but they might be related. Issue 1 the key fob does not unlock the doors, trunk, sound alarm etc. So that would be a lack of electricity in the fob (fob battery/damage) or lack of electricity in the car (car battery, fuse, wires etc) The second issue is that the vehicle is not recognizing your chipped ignition keys. That added fact would lead me to suspect that this is a car issue and not a fob issue. From your picture you have two ways to start the car. one fob, one key. Have you tried to do anything with them separated? I would be curious to know what happens when you leave the fob in the house and try your key. It should start the car without the fob present and if it does not then I would want to find out why the car is not recognizing the key. On Fords, they have a known issue with the chip sensor breaking and not reading the key. Haven't heard of a similar issue with the Charger but it would be a place to start.

You could also consider repeating what you did with the trip sensor. Is it possible that something is stuck and you are somehow not in Start mode. I say this because the fob should still unlock the doors and trunk etc even if the chip sensor is not working. You should be able to unlock the car from across the parking lot even if the chip sensor is too far away to see the fob for start purposes. If the fob is not working to unlock the doors from across the parking lot there must be some sort of issue with the system that has you blocked from sending a signal to open the door and the same issue may be keeping you from starting the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Sounds like you may have two different issues here but they might be related. Issue 1 the key fob does not unlock the doors, trunk, sound alarm etc. So that would be a lack of electricity in the fob (fob battery/damage) or lack of electricity in the car (car battery, fuse, wires etc) The second issue is that the vehicle is not recognizing your chipped ignition keys. That added fact would lead me to suspect that this is a car issue and not a fob issue. From your picture you have two ways to start the car. one fob, one key. Have you tried to do anything with them separated? I would be curious to know what happens when you leave the fob in the house and try your key. It should start the car without the fob present and if it does not then I would want to find out why the car is not recognizing the key. On Fords, they have a known issue with the chip sensor breaking and not reading the key. Haven't heard of a similar issue with the Charger but it would be a place to start.

You could also consider repeating what you did with the trip sensor. Is it possible that something is stuck and you are somehow not in Start mode. I say this because the fob should still unlock the doors and trunk etc even if the chip sensor is not working. You should be able to unlock the car from across the parking lot even if the chip sensor is too far away to see the fob for start purposes. If the fob is not working to unlock the doors from across the parking lot there must be some sort of issue with the system that has you blocked from sending a signal to open the door and the same issue may be keeping you from starting the car.

I got the car towed to my trusted mechanic today. I’ll keep you guys posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I forgot to come in here and update you on what the issue was. Ready? (Cue the drumroll please)....

Turns out a rat/squirrel climbed under the dash through the bottom of the car a created a nest. At the same time are up wiring which caused a short
 

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The mice (yes plural) who made a family nest in my wife's SUV gave zero f*ks that it was a daily driver. They made babies in the cabin air filter.
 

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The car is not a daily driver? I wonder how these creatures have the time to make homes in our cars

Thats correct, the car was not a daily driver. I had it sitting on the corner of my property while I prepared it to list for sale. I live out in the country and my property is next to a big pasture. So the winter was pretty harsh down here and didn’t realize my car made an excellent shelter for field mice to escape the cold. It sat for about a month without moving or starting it
 

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Hi. I have precisely same issue with the my. Although it was ongoing for some time where it took 3-5 key turns to start the car but eventually the car just went dead. No turnover whatsoever, cannot unlock the doors (the moment I hit the unlock button the car bips and locks itself right back immediately). aside from that everything is dead - radio, can't roll my windows up etc. Naturally changed the car battery - nothing. Dying fob battery is not the case - has very different symptoms - slowly coming, shorter unlock distance from the car for unlocking, with eventual manual unlocking but never starting issue. So checked my fuses all looked great. Oddly the gears don't shift whatsoever - had to push the car from the parking spot for the tow truck but unusually could not go to neutral gear - also odd. Towed my car to the shop to run diagnostics - diagnosed with receiver issues and wireless ignition malfunction. Hefty repair cost. Does that seem right for receiver symptoms? I know that car would typically act identically when in the wrong gear and tryin to start, could it be a gear issue instead?
 
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