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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone,

I have a 2017 RT that just rolled over 50k. I bought it used a year ago with 36k on the clock, and I believe it is time to replace the brakes. The car shakes quite a bit during braking and I can tell that at least my rear rotors are warped. I also have a parking brake that is pretty much useless currently and need to replace the pads for that.

I'm sure I'm not alone when I have no interest in paying the amount of money it costs to replace the brakes with OEM parts, so I am looking for suggestions from those who have gone the aftermarket route.

I would like to know what brake pads and rotors the community has put onto their R/T or similar Charger trim, and their overall experience with them.

I am currently looking at powerstop - has anyone had any experience with this brand? The z23 seems like a good option.

Thanks.
 

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I would do some research here first (like I did), and you will read for days and days. 1. Your rotors are probably NOT warped. 2. Check reviews on Amazon, Tire Rack, etc.
 

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I used Power Stop pads and slotted , drilled rotors...better than OEM,, but not thrilled with the coating...starting to show rust and never been in the salt...
 

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Hello everyone,

I have a 2017 RT that just rolled over 50k. I bought it used a year ago with 36k on the clock, and I believe it is time to replace the brakes. The car shakes quite a bit during braking and I can tell that at least my rear rotors are warped. I also have a parking brake that is pretty much useless currently and need to replace the pads for that.

I'm sure I'm not alone when I have no interest in paying the amount of money it costs to replace the brakes with OEM parts, so I am looking for suggestions from those who have gone the aftermarket route.

I would like to know what brake pads and rotors the community has put onto their R/T or similar Charger trim, and their overall experience with them.

I am currently looking at powerstop - has anyone had any experience with this brand? The z23 seems like a good option.

Thanks.
The rotors are 100% warped if it shakes during braking. Typically, if you feel in in the wheel it's the fronts and if you feel it more on your butt, it's the rears. Either way, you should replace the rotors whenever you replace the pads. That is, also 100%, the best option for you and your car. The fact that the e-brake doesn't work ...sounds more like maybe a cable issue or other hardware...highly doubt the e-brake shoes are worn to the point that they no longer hold. That needs looking at closer as it sounds like nothing has really been checked properly and this is just a discussion. The power stop pads are a great option and get rotors that have painted "hats" and outer edges as they will hold up better in the long run.
 

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Warping is rare, you have material transfer left over from an aggressive braking session. Let off the pedal and shakes gone. If warped it will shake all the time and worsen with speed. A warped rotor(s) is a much more ugly experience than material transfer. AKA Hot Spots. Look at your rotors, you will see the spots.

I'm done with ceramics. Unlike Semi-Metallic (SM) they don't share the heat load, SM pads take some of the heat. Yes they dust more but braking performance is better and instant even cold.
I don't run designer (drilled / slotted) rotors anymore either.

I'll be running Raybestos Rotors and Performance Friction pads from here on.
 

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Warping is rare, you have material transfer left over from an aggressive braking session. Let off the pedal and shakes gone. If warped it will shake all the time and worsen with speed. A warped rotor(s) is a much more ugly experience than material transfer. AKA Hot Spots. Look at your rotors, you will see the spots.

I'm done with ceramics. Unlike Semi-Metallic (SM) they don't share the heat load, SM pads take some of the heat. Yes they dust more but braking performance is better and instant even cold.
I don't run designer (drilled / slotted) rotors anymore either.

I'll be running Raybestos Rotors and Performance Friction pads from here on.
warped rotors only pulsate with brake pedal applied...
 

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Stop being a dumb ase
 

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Stop being a dumb ase
dude...I know you don't work on cars because I do and have for 35 years...you obviously know nothing about brakes except the bare minimum ...your comment above about warped rotors shaking all the time and worsen with speed is exactly opposite of the truth...when rotors are out of round, they only pulsate when the pads are squeezed against them...common sense dude. I am currently retired from the OEM world and work at a 30K sq ft restoration shop to include body, paint, full mechanical and fab and upholstery and today I am working on a rotisserie restomod 70 Charger with a hellcat crate swap...what are you working on today??? Anytime you wanna go toe to toe, I promise you will look like the dumb #*@ every time, in front of your peers here... if you have any here...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The rotors are 100% warped if it shakes during braking. Typically, if you feel in in the wheel it's the fronts and if you feel it more on your butt, it's the rears. Either way, you should replace the rotors whenever you replace the pads. That is, also 100%, the best option for you and your car. The fact that the e-brake doesn't work ...sounds more like maybe a cable issue or other hardware...highly doubt the e-brake shoes are worn to the point that they no longer hold. That needs looking at closer as it sounds like nothing has really been checked properly and this is just a discussion. The power stop pads are a great option and get rotors that have painted "hats" and outer edges as they will hold up better in the long run.
Thanks. The dealership told me I needed a complete replacement of the rears including the parking brake pad. Of course I dont believe them. The shaking during braking feels more so from the rear and I don't really feel it at all in the steering wheel. It's also more prevalent on the highway.
 

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Thanks. The dealership told me I needed a complete replacement of the rears including the parking brake pad. Of course I dont believe them. The shaking during braking feels more so from the rear and I don't really feel it at all in the steering wheel. It's also more prevalent on the highway.
well...it sounds like that's what it needs...not sure how the e-brake is set up on an R/T like yours as mine is perhaps different and it will pulsate way more the faster you are going when you apply the brakes initially and lessen the slower the wheel rotation...if you're just putting around the neighborhood, you probably don't even feel it, esp if the front rotors are nice nd true...either way, you should always replace rotors on todays modern cars anytime you do pads...the e-brake shoes are inside the "hat" portion of the rotor so if those shoes are worn to the point they are grabbing the inside of the rotor, the hardware and springs need a careful looking at, esp if you live in the salt belt. I doubt the dealer actually checked those as you have to remove the caliper and rotor to check the shoes...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
well...it sounds like that's what it needs...not sure how the e-brake is set up on an R/T like yours as mine is perhaps different and it will pulsate way more the faster you are going when you apply the brakes initially and lessen the slower the wheel rotation...if you're just putting around the neighborhood, you probably don't even feel it, esp if the front rotors are nice nd true...either way, you should always replace rotors on todays modern cars anytime you do pads...the e-brake shoes are inside the "hat" portion of the rotor so if those shoes are worn to the point they are grabbing the inside of the rotor, the hardware and springs need a careful looking at, esp if you live in the salt belt. I doubt the dealer actually checked those as you have to remove the caliper and rotor to check the shoes...
I don't think they looked very far. It was last week when I went in to have my diff fluid changed for 50k maintenance and I told them my parking brake wasn't consistently holding my car when applied. I have to put it all the way to the floor and it takes several tries before it will hold. Even then if I'm on a big enough incline it will squeak and slide after I get out kf the car. Thankfully I'm not anywhere regularly where I absolutely need the parking brake but I always use it as a rule of thumb if my car rolls once I put it into park.
 

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I don't think they looked very far. It was last week when I went in to have my diff fluid changed for 50k maintenance and I told them my parking brake wasn't consistently holding my car when applied. I have to put it all the way to the floor and it takes several tries before it will hold. Even then if I'm on a big enough incline it will squeak and slide after I get out kf the car. Thankfully I'm not anywhere regularly where I absolutely need the parking brake but I always use it as a rule of thumb if my car rolls once I put it into park.
best way to operate the e-brake (once you get it working properly) is once you park, shift the car into neutral, apply the e-brake and than take you foot off the service brake and let the car rest on the rear rotors...then reapply the service brake and shift from neutral into park. This way the car is resting on the brakes and not the parking pawl in the trans. This is most important when parking on any incline but once you get into the habit, it will be your go to all the time. This would apply to any auto trans car or truck...best wishes getting your brakes dialed in...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
best way to operate the e-brake (once you get it working properly) is once you park, shift the car into neutral, apply the e-brake and than take you foot off the service brake and let the car rest on the rear rotors...then reapply the service brake and shift from neutral into park. This way the car is resting on the brakes and not the parking pawl in the trans. This is most important when parking on any incline but once you get into the habit, it will be your go to all the time. This would apply to any auto trans car or truck...best wishes getting your brakes dialed in...
Thats exactly how I do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
cool...your ahead of the curve as most don't know this trick...well done
Been trying to get my girlfriend into this habit as well. I think a big part of it is referring to it as a 'parking brake' rather than anything else.

Replacing parking brake components is much cheaper than replacing a transmission.
 

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I have a 2012 pursuit, and do my own brakes, I use Bosh Quitecast premium rotors and am running the Raybestos semi metallic police pads, I have experienced " warped rotors" in the past. It is actually referred to as lateral runout. The most important thing, is to clean the hub mating surface of rust and corrosion. I use Scotch-brite roloc brake bub cleaning disk. the tool mounts on a drill and goes right over the wheel stud. it does a great job. The cleaning of the Hub is the most important part when installing new rotors. The hub cleaning kit is like 35-45 bucks depending on where you find it.

Added tip: when removing the rear rotors, back off on the "Star Adjuster" so that you can remove the rotors without damaging the e brake shoes.
 

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I have a 2012 pursuit, and do my own brakes, I use Bosh Quitecast premium rotors and am running the Raybestos semi metallic police pads, I have experienced " warped rotors" in the past. It is actually referred to as lateral runout. The most important thing, is to clean the hub mating surface of rust and corrosion. I use Scotch-brite roloc brake bub cleaning disk. the tool mounts on a drill and goes right over the wheel stud. it does a great job. The cleaning of the Hub is the most important part when installing new rotors. The hub cleaning kit is like 35-45 bucks depending on where you find it.

Added tip: when removing the rear rotors, back off on the "Star Adjuster" so that you can remove the rotors without damaging the e brake shoes.
indeed...both are ultra important...
 

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I'm with you on that one. Being a machinist I have the means to go a little further. Other than debris and poor materials excessive lateral run-out can lead to uneven material transfer (AKA hot spots).

After cleaning surfaces I mount the rotor using conical washers and check the run-out via an indicator.
Mopar run-out specs for the brakes I run (BR9) front max is 0.0014", rear is 0.0010".

I have learned the hard way over the years on how to create hot spots.
  1. Too aggressive new brakes bedding or burnishing. Just follow the instructions. Including how to end the session.
  2. Too much too soon after new brake brake job. Take it easy for a couple hundred miles unless a situation evolves. Give everything time to fully face off to each other.
  3. I find Ceramics to be the easiest to get hot spots with.
  4. If in a braking session or situation you feel brake fade its time to get out of it if you can. They are hot and even the best setup and materials will go south in some way or manner.
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The last time I ran ceramics, even with everything setup and a couple k miles on them I managed to get uneven transfer when bringing her down hard from 139mph to 70mph in short order to avoid a hidden situation. I normally brake, coast, brake, coast ...... but couldn't this time.

This pic is from above session on StopTech Cryo Rotors w/Power Stop Z37 pads.

122468

I'm running MOPAR smoothies rotors and Pads now. Fingers always crossed with brakes.
 

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I would like to clarify warped vs. uneven material transfer (hot spots).
Warped are rare and take special circumstances like really crap rotor metallurgy or severe uneven cooling like spray washing a hot rotor on one side or suddenly stopping in water deep enough to partially submerge the rotor. To name a couple I know of.

Hot Spots are normally only felt when the pedal is depressed. Some are so slight its only felt after a little aggressive braking. With no braking pressure they are not felt in the pedal. OK.... unless a caliper piston is stuck out.

Warped rotors symptoms are felt all the time foot on the pedal or not. Like a really bad tire balance. I've had it so bad I couldn't drive the vehicle (1997 Silverado 4x4) over 30mph for the horrendous shaking.
Warped is warped and don't care if the brakes are applied or not.
 
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