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Low Oil Pressure

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36K views 14 replies 10 participants last post by  Honez2323  
#1 ·
i have a '07 charger w/ the 5.7 i started it up today and let it warm up when i got back out to my car the oil light was on so i checked the psi it was at 0. i shut it off and checked the oil. oil level was fine. started it back up and it had normal psi began to drive to work stopped at a light oil light came on. began driving it went off. it was -13F degrees this morning so i dont know if its just bc of the cold or a coincidence. anyone have any idea. i have looked around on the forum but havent found anything exactly like this. im thinking it could be the oil pressure sensor but the pressure still increases when i am moving. sending unit? oil pump is new 10k miles ago. i dont want to blow my engine but i also dont want to pay $500 for something i dont need. any ideas?
 
#2 ·
I'm by no means an expert, but here are my suggestions:
1-Check the connection to the sending unit. If it is loose, corroded, or the wire could have been damaged during the oil pump replacement.
2-Cold weather can wreak havoc at times. Metal contracts, so if the connector is loose, it could have contracted enough to break contact, and indicate 0 pressure.
3-Make sure you have the correct weight oil for the engine and climate the vehicle is to be operated in. Multi weight oil is designed for specific temperature ranges. It could be the oil is incorrect or too heavy to flow properly, and the sensor is not able to register low pressure from oil that is too thick to make it to the sensor.
4-Replace the sensor. If you have had the oil pump replaced, there had to be a reason, and this could have also caused the sensor to become damaged or it has sludge/crud on it and cannot get an accurate reading.

Good luck..

Tim
 
#3 ·
took it in, they checked the pressure and it was good. the oil pressure switch was leaking so it was bad. they replaced it everything's good. cost $300. 100 for part ($55 I've seen online) 90 for "computer diagnostics" 100 labor. could've/would've done it myself but it was so f***ing cold and i dont have a heated garage. just glad it wasnt oil pump or bearing.
 
#4 ·
took it in, they checked the pressure and it was good. the oil pressure switch was leaking so it was bad. they replaced it everything's good. cost $300. 100 for part ($55 I've seen online) 90 for "computer diagnostics" 100 labor. could've/would've done it myself but it was so f***ing cold and i dont have a heated garage. just glad it wasnt oil pump or bearing.
Isn't that truly the worst part about the cold weather up here in the north? You can't work on your own car unless you can afford a heated garage... Glad you got it fixed though!
 
#6 ·
The prices these day's...You used to pay for parts and the mechanic and experience, now you pay the same plus the computer to figure out what's wrong.....Maybe I need a snickers bar
Bahahaha, nice. And yeah, it's ridiculous that you have to pay that much for a computer to tell you what's wrong. I got an OBD-II reader so that I can check codes, but I'd still have to have someone flash the computer on the stupid thing for me, because I don't have that capability. I still make sure that I have a reputable mechanic for most everything though... sometimes those guys at the stealership, and especially the chain stores, are just kids with computers that know how to fix problems if they are told what the problem is... without that knowledge, I'm amazed at how many times I've seen that "deer in the headlights" problem, or the robotic "well, this, this and this need to be replaced anyway, so let's do that and see if that fixes the problem"...
 
#7 ·
took it in, they checked the pressure and it was good. the oil pressure switch was leaking so it was bad. they replaced it everything's good. cost $300. 100 for part ($55 I've seen online) 90 for "computer diagnostics" 100 labor. could've/would've done it myself but it was so f***ing cold and i dont have a heated garage. just glad it wasnt oil pump or bearing.
Glad to hear it was something simple!
 
#8 ·
There is not in existence a computer that can tell a person what is wrong with a car. There are scan tools that "talk" to the cars various modules. These modules are capable of telling the scan tool the various data that the module sees. If there is a code set for a lean exhaust condition, for example, then a technician has to actually start the diagnostic process to determine why the PCM sees, or has seen, a lean condition on one or both banks. There are numerous possibilities of what has caused the condition. The module, nor the scan tool, have the capability of diagnosing the cause of the issue. This is the same for any code that is set in the vehicles computer memory.

I do this for a living, five days a week, eleven hours a day. If there was a computer that could diagnose a car, technicians would not be needed. Trust me, there is no computer capable of diagnosing a damn thing. It takes a human with intelligence to diagnose these cars.

When you see someone pull a code, and they have that "deer in the headlight" look, it's because he/she is not a technician and has no frigging clue what the problem is and certainly doesn't know what to do next to determine the cause. That's where a person with knowledge of vehicle computer systems is really needed. And that's what I do....all damn day long.

People say that we (automotive technicians) charge too much. Think about this. How much does a doctor make? The human body hasn't changed....EVER. Yet the doctor earns a very nice income for his knowledge of diagnosing and treating ailments of the body, a body which hasn't changed.

Automobiles change every year. Several manufacturers and several models change the way they function and the way they operate every year. It's up to the individual technician to stay up to date with these changes. Changes that amount to over 241,000 pages of literature of updates and changes...every year. So, we stay up to date with all the new systems and procedures that we can. Doctors? No. No new models to deal with yearly. No new designed hearts, lungs, brains, muscles, tissue...nothing. The only thing that changes in their profession is new medications some times and occasionally a new radical treatment. For this they have medical seminars.

This oil pressure issue? Someone had to remove the oil sending unit, hook their pressure gauge with the correct adapter to the port, read the oil pressure at various rpm's and compare that to the specifications for the particular model. Then hook a scanner to the ALDL and read what the PCM is reporting the oil pressure that it sees then compare that information to the actual pressure that is taken manually. This one is a simple test and doesn't require a lot of thought. But it's still a procedure that has to be performed in order to correctly diagnose the customers complaint. And a procedure that the technician deserves to be paid for performing.

But some say that we automotive technicians only read codes and replace parts. That's certainly not what I do in my role as an automotive technician. I'm paid damn well to do what I do, which is diagnose causes of issues and problems.
 
#9 ·
Soooo... it was pretty cold again this morning and i started up my car to warm up. Oil light, no pressure, no codes, no weird sounds. I'm going to go ahead and assume it is the oil pressure sending unit again. taking it back in today or tomorrow.
 
#10 ·
tusked,
I have had the same problem TWICE! I had a oil pressure light first, then the CEL. I checked the codes and found P0522. My oil pressure showed 1 psi at idle on the digital read out, pressure then ran up to 55 psion cruise. I replaced the oil pressure switch/sender and all was OK for a month. Tried to start car one morning, engine would crank, but not run. CEL came on and showed a bad Crank Position Sensor. Replaced the crank sensor and cleared codes. Still cranked no start up. Checked oil pressure while cranking. Digital display showed 1 psi. Replaced oil pressure sensor AGAIN and cleared codes. Engine started and ran fine! 3 days ago same thing. CEL came on and shows P0522 "low voltage oil pressure switch" Engine runs fine, shows good oil pressure but CEL shows the P0522. Something must be wrong upstream of the sender making a low voltage issue throwing this code. No other issues with engine or performance. ANYONE else have an idea? I have 76k on my 06 Hemi.
Regards.
 
#11 ·
well turns out the replaced my oil temp sensor instead of my oil pressure sensor. they only charged me for sensor this time and i got them to drop the price to $60.

06HemiPWR when i was initially having problems i was looking for solutions... i found someone with what sounds like your problem. Check the ground, make sure you are not overdoing it with teflon tape either. i believe the sensor ground to the block thru the threads and/or somewhere in the wiring. make sure you are getting 5 volts at the sensor. look for damaged wires. their problem was some how connected to their intake sensor i believe. hope this helps.
 
#12 ·
Im having the same problem, CEL came on with a p0520 "oil pressure" along with the oil light popping on and off. I changed out the oil and cleared the CEL code, but I am still getting the oil light. I noticed it's only coming on when I come to a stop, which is the same problem you've been having. I'm going to the shop now to see if I can get the pressure sensor changed out. Let us know if you continue to have problems after changing out your sensor, and I will do the same to see if we can determine what the problem is.
 
#14 ·
Sounds like a common issue, had the same issue this weekend with my sons car.. Little to no oil pressure at idle Less than 3psi but at speed the oil pressure goes normal. we replace the sender since we were putting plugs in it, but still have the same issue. beginning to think its the oil pump.. not a task I wish to tackle at this time so will be sending it to the dealership. anyone else have other suggestions??

thanks
 
#15 ·
So, joined today just to say thanks! I had low oil pressure coming to a stop and it would not go higher than 22 psi at just under 2000 rpms. Found y’alls post and I bought a oil pressure sender for $49. It took me about 3 hours. Jacked the front, removed air box, took a pic of serpentine, removed alternator ( this took the most time, I broke two ratchets) replaced sensor. Changed the oil while I was at it.

Again, I just wanted to say thanks!