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Discussion Starter #23
Not sure which brand they’re installing, but definitely going with high-flow cats.
 

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The difference between a Dyno-Jet & Mustang dynos' is the Dyno-Jet is load bearing and the Mustang is not. Both are useful tools, just adjust with the math of 13-15%.

So 530hp on a DJ would be 455.8 on a Mstang using 14% roughly speaking.
I've seen stock Eagle 5.7's dyno 360-ish on a DJ and 320-ish on a Mstang.

So if you were running 6.5-7psi you are right in line for a 100hp gain with the Whipple. Its how the numbers worked out for me w/6.5 Summer heat , 7-psi winter time numbers.

No two are the same....... and Vendor and Sales people like to shed the best light on their claims of gains.

Please tell us the blow by Blow details when the rod went?
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I had just pulled out from a store, onto a road that went from a 45 to 55 speed limit. Two lanes with occasional passing lanes. I was doing about 45 or so, coming up to one of those lanes, and ready to pass the car in front of me. I gave it maybe ⅓ to ½ throttle, when it lost power and started running very rough. I looked in the rear view and saw huge twin streams of smoke and/or steam trailing behind me. I can’t describe the sound because I don’t remember it. Nothing banging or knocking. I pulled it over to the side of the road, when the steam started pouring out from under the hood. This all happened in the span of 10 or 20 seconds. I shut it off, and knew that my goose was cooked.

An hour and a half later, it was on a tow truck.
 
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2017 Daytona 392. Ray Barton forged 392, tvs2300, aluminum ds, to much to list
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I had just pulled out from a store, onto a road that went from a 45 to 55 speed limit. Two lanes with occasional passing lanes. I was doing about 45 or so, coming up to one of those lanes, and ready to pass the car in front of me. I gave it maybe ⅓ to ½ throttle, when it lost power and started running very rough. I looked in the rear view and saw huge twin streams of smoke and/or steam trailing behind me. I can’t describe the sound because I don’t remember it. Nothing banging or knocking. I pulled it over to the side of the road, when the steam started pouring out from under the hood. This all happened in the span of 10 or 20 seconds. I shut it off, and knew that my goose was cooked.

An hour and a half later, it was on a tow truck.
Thats a terrible feeling, stuck on the side of the road with a broke car.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Yeah, it is. Funny thing - a few years back, I was on the side of that same road, within a mile or two of that same spot, in my previous Charger. Same tow company too.

When a dealer replaced the timing belt and redid the water pump under a recall, they didn't put the gasket in properly, and eventually it failed and stranded me.

That repair only cost me a couple of hundred bucks, though.
 

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I jumped on a 1le Camaro getting on I-140 in Knoxville, got about 2 cars ahead of him and supercharger belt flies off. To the shoulder I went. Belt came off because of a defective idler pulley from magnuson, which they were quick to send a new one.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I jumped on a 1le Camaro getting on I-140 in Knoxville, got about 2 cars ahead of him and supercharger belt flies off. To the shoulder I went. Belt came off because of a defective idler pulley from magnuson, which they were quick to send a new one.
Whoa. Glad it didn't damage anything!
 

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Discussion Starter #30
While the car's in the shop, I'm thinking of having them change all of the remaining fluids - differentials, transfer case, transmission. It's just under 50,000 miles, so this seems like a good time to do all that.
 

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Cool little writing on difference between Whipple and Magnuson.
While logically based on a pure displacement scenario and Whipple's website - this would seem to be that case, but unfortunately it is not entirely true.

The Whipple is a screw charger requiring a male and female rotor to achieve the claimed internal compression. Due to this design the rotors must have a different number of lobes on each rotor - Whipple's design uses 5 lobes (on the female) and 3 lobes (on the male) Since the female rotor is the driven rotor, the male rotor must spin 5/3 times faster. The max RPM for the 2.9L is rated at 18000 RPM which means the male rotor is turning 30000RPM which is a pretty high bearing speeds for this unit.

The Eaton TVS 2300 is a high-helix roots supercharger meaning it utilizes a set of matched rotors (same # of lobes on each) and due to it’s design, it is not capable of internal compression (which minimizes pumping losses during cruise). It’s Eaton OEM rated speed is at the highest speed allowed for infinite bearing life (yes that means the bearing is expected to last forever) and a max temperature rise across the SC of ~130 degrees C (max outlet temp of 150C) which occurs at 18000 and 2.4 pressure ratio (21psi boost).
Not surprisingly the Whipple 2.9 uses the same bearings, so as you might guess there is quite a bit more flow in the Eaton TVS if we were to set its max speed to the same level as the 2.9L screw. Since both rotors spin the exact same speed in the TVS let’s increase that allowed bearing speed limit to 24000RPM. Now our 150C (302F) outlet temp still applies so we probably can’t run 21 PSI of boost continuously, but 18psi will probably be just fine for a V8 application.

At 18000 RPM a Whipple 2.9L blower is capable of moving 1720 CFM as per the Whipple website.
At 18000 RPM a TVS 2300 blower is capable of moving 1461 CFM.
At 22000 RPM a TVS 2300 blower is capable of moving 1770 CFM.
At 24000 RPM a TVS 2300 blower is capable of moving 1900 CFM.
So to match the 18000 RPM max output of a Whipple 2.9 you need to spin the TVS to about 21,500 – beyond that speed it will outflow the Whipple 2.9L.

A 90mm throttle body is enough flow to support about 750-800 RWHP on a TVS 2300 (the vacuum created by the inlet restriction will cause the bypass to start opening causing high inlet air temps, limit the boost and prevent higher power). To go beyond this you will need a larger 102mm or 108mm throttle body. At about 23000 RPM the inlet port in the TVS 2300 housing will become the restriction and prevent efficient operation at any higher speed so I don’t recommend operation beyond this point with a TVS2300.
 

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I like my Edelbrock 2300 because of its quiet screws and the inter-cooling is great. I have a Magnuson 1800 on my Silverado since 2005 and like the screw noise there but want the sleeper effect on my Charger.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
The Whipple has a subdued whine, at idle, which I don't mind. Actually I kind of like it. Of course it's more pronounced under acceleration.

Speaking of the sleeper effect, I'll be interested to hear the difference with the long tube headers and high flow cats vs the bone stock system I had. It was pretty quiet. The only problem was that it created more back pressure, which after a certain point, is apparently not a good thing with a boosted engine. Again, I'm a noob when it comes to this stuff. Anyway, I'm hoping for a bit more of an exhaust note under acceleration, but remaining relatively quiet while idling or cruising. We'll see.
 

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There will be more noise. Sometimes more exhaust flow reduces max boost. Only the before and after results will reveal it.
I would be concerned why it blew so easily. Was it tuned on a dyno?
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Yes, it was tuned on a dyno. I too am curious why it blew. I’m going to talk with the shop about that, as they assured me the stock bottom end could handle the boost.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Guess while I’m at it, I’ll have the shop change the trans (+filter), diff, and transfer case fluids.
 

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the stock 5.7 handles the boost fine, when tuned properly. I've made 700whp on the stock 5.7 with prochargers. There are things that need to be done, that not all tuners know to do, when it comes to boosted mopars. A shop that has minimal experience with that platform is not going to know the tricks.

Bigger motor will be fine. I have a BGE block in my 2014 AWD, if you mix and match the parts properly, it is plug n play.

Longtubes are louder, but ultimately your exhaust from the mid pipes back will determine the sound. Magnaflow on my car sounded like stock, I wanted it rowdy and went to an SLP. My SLP will alert the whole neighborhood and two adjacent ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
the stock 5.7 handles the boost fine, when tuned properly. I've made 700whp on the stock 5.7 with prochargers. There are things that need to be done, that not all tuners know to do, when it comes to boosted mopars. A shop that has minimal experience with that platform is not going to know the tricks.

Bigger motor will be fine. I have a BGE block in my 2014 AWD, if you mix and match the parts properly, it is plug n play.

Longtubes are louder, but ultimately your exhaust from the mid pipes back will determine the sound. Magnaflow on my car sounded like stock, I wanted it rowdy and went to an SLP. My SLP will alert the whole neighborhood and two adjacent ones.
The shop is using HP Tuners, fwiw. They have worked on plenty of Mopars, including 5.7s. So I would hope they are aware of the tricks. But maybe not. Any suggestions, based on your experience?
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Just got the pics from the shop. Looks like I’ll be paying that core charge!

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DEC7D6BA-9593-42D8-8340-79FDC11348B1.jpeg
 

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The shop is using HP Tuners, fwiw. They have worked on plenty of Mopars, including 5.7s. So I would hope they are aware of the tricks. But maybe not. Any suggestions, based on your experience?
Both HPtuners and Diablosport are capable of the same tuning for this situation.
 
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