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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,

I recently purchased a RGBWA DRL kit from Theretrofitsource. Got em’ all installed and they look great, however we were pretty confused when it came to tapping into the DRL. The install guide/ wiring diagram is trash. It’s completely different than what I’m seeing on the headlight wiring harness.


Basically, I just want the DRLs to function as they normally would. Turn on/off with the car’s ignition. When the app for the Bluetooth controller is turned off, the DRLs turn off for a second, then turn back on very dim-lit.


Anywho, this is what I’m dealing with:

The DRLs are plugged into a bluetooth controller. That controller has 2 wires. RED, BLACK. I have the red wire connected straight to the positive terminal (fuse protected) near the fuse box. The black wire is grounded to one of the existing ground terminals.


Both DRLs have their own driver modules which has 5 input wires. RED, BLACK, ORANGE, WHITE, and YELLOW. I’m not an expert with wiring but My understanding is that red is 12v+ black is the ground, and orange is for the turn signal function. I don’t care for the turn signal function so the orange wire is set to the side for now. The yellow and white wires is where the confusion starts. Their install guide claims that the white wire is for the dimming function. However the guide does not mention the yellow wire. I have no idea what it’s purpose is.

Below is how I have it wired to the stock headlight harness: (on each respective side)


BLACK - Tapped into 1 of the 3 black wires

RED - Tapped into DRL wire (Driver side wire White/Yellow, Passenger side wire White/Dark Blue)

ORANGE - Set to side

YELLOW - ?

WHITE - ?


Even with the car off, when I connect the black ground wire to any other black wire on the harness, the DRL turns on dim-lit. I find it odd that the ground is somehow drawing power but it is... weird, right? I’m guessing that one of the other 4 wires is used to cancel-out that draw? But I don’t know. The only way to completely turn off the DRLs (as to avoid draining my battery) is to remove the fuse that I have installed between the Bluetooth controller and the battery terminal.


I know I may have went into too much detail, but this is very frustrating for me. Any and all help would be much appreciated.
 

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I have RGBWA as well....however, I didn't try to wire right in to the existing DRL wiring if I am understanding you right.

The way I did it allow the lights to come on when the car is on and off when the car if off..

I ran a wire through the firewall to the cigar lighter in the center console....that power is switched...

It works great for me....

Hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have RGBWA as well....however, I didn't try to wire right in to the existing DRL wiring if I am understanding you right.

The way I did it allow the lights to come on when the car is on and off when the car if off..

I ran a wire through the firewall to the cigar lighter in the center console....that power is switched...

It works great for me....

Hope this helps
Not a bad idea! Thanks! Yeah, I replaced the stock DRL motherboard with the RGBWAs, and I want them to function like the stock DRL does. Turns on/off with the car, but also dims when the headlights are on.
 

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We appreciate your purchase of AutoLEDTech.com's 2015-2018 Dodge Charger RGBW +A DRL boards! Please follow the steps detailed below to properly install your replacement DRL boards.
Please note: Headlights must be opened before proceeding with installation. Professional installation is strongly recommended.
Tools Needed: Torx T15 and T20 Screwdriver
1. First, access the factory LED panels by removing the 4 screws holding the black bezel in place using a T20 bit. Once removed, pull the bezel off and set it to the side.
2. Next, remove the torx screws holding the black alignment bracket in place over the factory boards. Pull the bracket off and unclip the power connector from the factory board. Remove the final torx screw holding the factory board in place.
3. Using a firm grip, pull the factory board off and remove the thermal adhesion pad (sil-pad) from the back of the factory board. Reattach the sil-pad to the back of your new Diode Dynamics board.
4. Using the alignment tabs, place the new board into place and replace the original retaining screw. Next, replace the black alignment bracket using the original screws. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN.
5. Repeat this process for other two LED boards in the headlamp.
6. Once complete, route the ribbon cables out of the headlamp through the dust cap, sealing any holes that you may create.
7. Using the alignment tabs, reinstall the black bezel. Once complete, replace the original torx screws and headlamp lense. Repeat for other headlamp.
8. Connect the LED Board connector to the specified RGBW Driver connector. Next, connect the RGBW Driver to the 4-way splitter that is connected to the RGBW Controller. The bare wires from the splitter must be inserted into the corresponding slot on the controller in order for the boards to function properly
(Red wire->R | Green wire->G | Blue wire->B | White wire->W | Black wire->+)
IMPORTANT: DO NOT plug the LED Board connector directly into controller without the driver. The LEDs must be plugged into driver first to control the power. Failure to do so will result in damage to the LED Board and WILL NOT be covered under warranty.
9. Connect your RGBW controller to 12V power and ground. This will dictate when the LED Boards turn on. The most popular wiring choices are listed in the table below. NOTE: The LED Driver Module will have one YELLOW and one BLACK wire that will need to be connected in order for the DRL boards to function properly. The black wire of each Driver Module must be connected to a ground wire/location separate from the main controller ground!
VoltagePin OEM ConnectorWire Color-Driver
Wire Color-Passenger
12V+Pin 3: DRLWhite/Yellow
White/Dark Blue
12V+Pin 4: ParkingWhite/Brown
White/Orange
BLACKPin 10: GroundBlack
Black
YELLOWTURN SIGNAL
White/Light Green

White/Tan

10. Mount the drivers and controller, and tuck all wires. Drivers should be mounted outside of headlight for serviceability, in a location away from the engine block to avoid excessive heat buildup. The controller needs to be mounted in a position that avoids moisture or excessive heat. Test thoroughly, reseal headlights, and reinstall onto vehicle.
 

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I have RGBWA as well....however, I didn't try to wire right in to the existing DRL wiring if I am understanding you right.

The way I did it allow the lights to come on when the car is on and off when the car if off..

I ran a wire through the firewall to the cigar lighter in the center console....that power is switched...

It works great for me....

Hope this helps
hello, can you elaborate a little more ? I also installed rgbw but it looks super dim it’s ok at night but still dim
 

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hello, can you elaborate a little more ? I also installed rgbw but it looks super dim it’s ok at night but still dim
How did you hook it up...thru the firewall? cigar lighter?
Mine is not not super bright during the day either but I prefer it that way...less attention from the cops.

It may be the power output from the cigar lighter or the RGBWA you bought..
 

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I have no clue. I payed to have them installed
Bro...not sure where you got them but I am getting my next set from Halo Kits.com....their are bright even in the day time
 
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