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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi so I’m fairly new to molar’s not to long ago but a 2013 charger rt Dayton I wanted to do a transmission oil and filler change so I went to the dealer to buy the oil filler and gasket asked how many quart’s it takes or is there a chart since it doesn’t have a dipstick he told me it takes 5.3qt’s if you’re only removing the tran’s pan and replacing the filler and oil and that’s it I’m like okay I did all that but something just didn’t feel right so I was checking and somewhere it said there’s a chart but i dont know how to get my hands on it already bought a dipstick but idk the correct level at which temperature it is I have a scan tool I can hook up yo check temp’s or it also display’s it in the cluster any help would be greatly appreciated

Also when I went to the dealer to ask how many quarts it takes or is there a chart he wouldn’t tell me said I need a manager and he’s not here he said just have us replace it for you for $500 I said he’ll no went to another dodge dealer he said yes there’s a chart that tells you at this temperature the level should be this but couldn’t give it to me then I asked how many qharts it takes he said you buy the oil from use I’ll tell you so I bought the oil filler and pan gasket from that dodge dealer he said it just put 5.3qt’s and you’re good

so I was wondering if that’s true or if anyone is whiling to share the chart don’t wanna mess up the tran’s car is in amazing condition with 51k miles

is this the right chart ?

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Chart A looks correct. However you def need a proper dipstick to check it.
 

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Yes, correct charts but make sure the dipstick you bought is just for the NAG1. I use the B&M 22301 NAG1 Locking transmssion dipstick. There are others on the market. I have seen some use zip ties, measure the fluid before changing and then fill to the previous level when pouring the new it back in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Chart A looks correct. However you def need a proper dipstick to check it.
Ok thanks for the reply I bought this dip stick

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes, correct charts but make sure the dipstick you bought is just for the NAG1. I use the B&M 22301 NAG1 Locking transmssion dipstick. There are others on the market. I have seen some use zip ties, measure the fluid before changing and then fill to the previous level when pouring the new it back in.
Yes, correct charts but make sure the dipstick you bought is just for the NAG1. I use the B&M 22301 NAG1 Locking transmssion dipstick. There are others on the market. I have seen some use zip ties, measure the fluid before changing and then fill to the previous level when pouring the new it back in.
Thanks for the reply

I’m stupid and didn’t think to measure what came out I just dropped the pan cleaned the pan and around where the gasket sits swapped the filler with an oem put the pan back on and new gasket put 5.3 quarts of tran’s oil and that’s it haven’t started it yet


also bought this dip stick should I get another one instead

 

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Well lets hope it does not go into limp mode. 5.3 quarts is correct when just changing the fluid and filter. If all the fluid drained out correctly. Not sure about that dipstick you bought. I was always told to use the ones that are specifically for the NAG1 trans. They are expensive.

Take it for a spin and let us know how it went.
 

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Thanks for the reply

I’m stupid and didn’t think to measure what came out I just dropped the pan cleaned the pan and around where the gasket sits swapped the filler with an oem put the pan back on and new gasket put 5.3 quarts of tran’s oil and that’s it haven’t started it yet


also bought this dip stick should I get another one instead

I use that dipstick. It does not stay in all the time as it's kinda universal. But has worked for me. Just follow the chart.
 

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I never have liked this method of half a$$ changing "some" of the fluid to put in a new filter. There is 8.4qts counting the torque converter, 11.4qts if you have a B&M Deep pan.

I was changing the valve body so I wanted a good flush.

You can disconnect the return to pan line at the transmission thermostat and install this nipple in the thermostat with a hose to a bucket and get it all out in less than a minute by running the engine until it spits air. There is an arrow cast into the trans housing at each line to help you decide which is the return to pan.

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Once she spits air shut down. Then find when you drop the pan its almost empty, not even a 1/4 cup. No mess! The pickup rests on the pan floor. Drop the pan, wipe it out, replace the filter and button up.

Remove the nipple and replace the return line and pour in 4qts.
Get a funnel ready and start the engine and feed in anther 4 to make 8 and put the stick cap on and get her up to temp using the remaining qt to dial her in.

Here is what she pumped out. This is with me pouring in an extra gallon I had while she pumped out. It doesn't pump out slow or fast, a nice steady pour does well. I have the B&M Deep pan.

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Valvoline off the shelf for these cars is fine. There is only one mfg of the stuff I know of, all of it is just rebranded to the marketer.
I had a bud operate turning the engine on and off, and the hose clipped to the edge of the bucket to avoid a mishap.

Anther tip. There is some turbulence in the pan when its a little low, you will pull the stick and see it up to level on one side, and low on the other. Drove me crazy, to me it didn't seem to be clinging to the blade full width on the low looking side..
Having the deep pan with a drain plug (it has a cast in ledge to equal the OE pan depth) I decided to pour in another cup and BAM the stick readings looked like a good dip. If you don't follow me here it will dawn on you if you experience it.

One more note: The t-stat is a little hard to get at, you can flex the bracket, and the nut is not real tight and doesn't need to be going back on. The o-ring does all the work. Just snug her.
 

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I never have liked this method of half a$$ changing "some" of the fluid to put in a new filter. There is 8.4qts counting the torque converter, 11.4qts if you have a B&M Deep pan.
Not half a$$ed in any way. It's a typical service that works perfectly fine for years. And I rather do a few drain and fills than ever, ever let my transmission pump suck in air. If anything that method is half-a$$ to just getting it done properly with a machine designed to keep a continuous flow of fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I never have liked this method of half a$$ changing "some" of the fluid to put in a new filter. There is 8.4qts counting the torque converter, 11.4qts if you have a B&M Deep pan.

I was changing the valve body so I wanted a good flush.

You can disconnect the return to pan line at the transmission thermostat and install this nipple in the thermostat with a hose to a bucket and get it all out in less than a minute by running the engine until it spits air. There is an arrow cast into the trans housing at each line to help you decide which is the return to pan.

View attachment 125868

View attachment 125869

Once she spits air shut down. Then find when you drop the pan its almost empty, not even a 1/4 cup. No mess! The pickup rests on the pan floor. Drop the pan, wipe it out, replace the filter and button up.

Remove the nipple and replace the return line and pour in 4qts.
Get a funnel ready and start the engine and feed in anther 4 to make 8 and put the stick cap on and get her up to temp using the remaining qt to dial her in.

Here is what she pumped out. This is with me pouring in an extra gallon I had while she pumped out. It doesn't pump out slow or fast, a nice steady pour does well. I have the B&M Deep pan.

View attachment 125870

Valvoline off the shelf for these cars is fine. There is only one mfg of the stuff I know of, all of it is just rebranded to the marketer.
I had a bud operate turning the engine on and off, and the hose clipped to the edge of the bucket to avoid a mishap.

Anther tip. There is some turbulence in the pan when its a little low, you will pull the stick and see it up to level on one side, and low on the other. Drove me crazy, to me it didn't seem to be clinging to the blade full width on the low looking side..
Having the deep pan with a drain plug (it has a cast in ledge to equal the OE pan depth) I decided to pour in another cup and BAM the stick readings looked like a good dip. If you don't follow me here it will dawn on you if you experience it.

One more note: The t-stat is a little hard to get at, you can flex the bracket, and the nut is not real tight and doesn't need to be going back on. The o-ring does all the work. Just snug her.
Thanks for the reply so I was replacing my radiator and I forgot to put that hose line in right and when I started it spit out trans fluid a good bit it was kinda clean but I’m like I’ll replace it anyways so all I did was put that hose on right this time went to the dealer got 6qt’s of ATF and the filler and gasket and was told just to put in 5.3qt’s but I wanna make sure before I start it
 

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Heh!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I never have liked this method of half a$$ changing "some" of the fluid to put in a new filter. There is 8.4qts counting the torque converter, 11.4qts if you have a B&M Deep pan.

I was changing the valve body so I wanted a good flush.

You can disconnect the return to pan line at the transmission thermostat and install this nipple in the thermostat with a hose to a bucket and get it all out in less than a minute by running the engine until it spits air. There is an arrow cast into the trans housing at each line to help you decide which is the return to pan.

View attachment 125868

View attachment 125869

Once she spits air shut down. Then find when you drop the pan its almost empty, not even a 1/4 cup. No mess! The pickup rests on the pan floor. Drop the pan, wipe it out, replace the filter and button up.

Remove the nipple and replace the return line and pour in 4qts.
Get a funnel ready and start the engine and feed in anther 4 to make 8 and put the stick cap on and get her up to temp using the remaining qt to dial her in.

Here is what she pumped out. This is with me pouring in an extra gallon I had while she pumped out. It doesn't pump out slow or fast, a nice steady pour does well. I have the B&M Deep pan.

View attachment 125870

Valvoline off the shelf for these cars is fine. There is only one mfg of the stuff I know of, all of it is just rebranded to the marketer.
I had a bud operate turning the engine on and off, and the hose clipped to the edge of the bucket to avoid a mishap.

Anther tip. There is some turbulence in the pan when its a little low, you will pull the stick and see it up to level on one side, and low on the other. Drove me crazy, to me it didn't seem to be clinging to the blade full width on the low looking side..
Having the deep pan with a drain plug (it has a cast in ledge to equal the OE pan depth) I decided to pour in another cup and BAM the stick readings looked like a good dip. If you don't follow me here it will dawn on you if you experience it.

One more note: The t-stat is a little hard to get at, you can flex the bracket, and the nut is not real tight and doesn't need to be going back on. The o-ring does all the work. Just snug her.
So I bought the drip stick as you’re replay said on the chart it said if the temperature of the trans oil was 70 it has to be 30 max on the drip stick it was more what was driving me crazy is people said you can only read the trans temperature in drive or reverse which I did it said 100 something checked it drip stick was saying I have to much in there which I only put 5 quarts in after dropping the pan and replacing the filler so I hooked up my scanner it said the trans temperature was 50 so way off drove it around kept it under 30mph until it was 75 check it still on the damm dip stick it was no to but probably is on the back side there was more and front was a bit less put it back in there got a lower reading tied it again and said 90 I give up it’s just parked in the drive way for now
 
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