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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
swapped 5.7 hemi for 5.7 hemi original motor dropped valve seat on number 7. new motor starts dies. i have a check engine light that i cannot clear, no resets etc will clear code. tried jumping fuel pump, asd relay ,triple checked all fuses grounds. according to scan tool (foxwell nt 510 elite) i have spark etc.It runs like it did before i swapped motors, have tried resetting ecu etc no change... should i replace cam/sensors and go from there. i know 99.95 percent of the time the ecu is almost never faulty...thanks in advance
 

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Not enough information to compute.

What year is your Charger?

What did the donor engine come out of?

What is the DTC that you're getting?

Is the anti-theft light on?
 

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i have a check engine light that i cannot clear
What's the code that's being logged? If it's an emissions code it's logged as a permanent code and you can not clear it. Only the car's onboard diagnostics can clear the code after you fix the problem.
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
the car is an 06. the engine is a reman motor. it says there is no code, how ever the car will not run, starts and then dies,
engine light will go off then blinks and comes back on steady. the only code it had was for the temperature sensor which was replaced as well as the connector, is it possible i need to replace the cam and or crank sensors to get the signal to the asd relay for the car to actually run long enough to clear the codes?
 

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the car is an 06. the engine is a reman motor. it says there is no code, how ever the car will not run, starts and then dies,
engine light will go off then blinks and comes back on steady. the only code it had was for the temperature sensor which was replaced as well as the connector, is it possible i need to replace the cam and or crank sensors to get the signal to the asd relay for the car to actually run long enough to clear the codes?
I'm assuming the reman motor is the same as the original; EGR in the same place, etc.

You're sure that the ant-theft light is not coming on?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm assuming the reman motor is the same as the original; EGR in the same place, etc.

You're sure that the ant-theft light is not coming on?
Yes, same motor, the theft light comes on for a second then goes off. it does this with two different keys, new battery in key, car is now throwing an P0627 code, How ever I have exchanged the fuel pump relay with another relay and also actuated the pump/asd relay with the scan tool. I'm wondering the probability of the ecu actually being faulty....according to the graph on the scan tool each coil is firing etc. i don't want to waste more money on an ecu only to be where i still am.................
 

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Yes, same motor, the theft light comes on for a second then goes off. it does this with two different keys, new battery in key, car is now throwing an P0627 code, How ever I have exchanged the fuel pump relay with another relay and also actuated the pump/asd relay with the scan tool. I'm wondering the probability of the ecu actually being faulty....according to the graph on the scan tool each coil is firing etc. i don't want to waste more money on an ecu only to be where i still am.................
Okay, you have one of two issues, maybe three. Issue #1: if it starts and runs for 3 seconds, most likely it's a security issue. Red dot on dash will be on constant after it shuts off. Issue #2: if you touched the gas pedal at any point after reconnecting battery AND cranking the engine, you screwed the computer up. Whenever you reconnect the battery to the system, the computer it is basically brain dead. It has a standard initial start protocal, unless you jack with it. That means touching the gas pedal, not having connectors plugged in ECT. The computer instantly remembers those initial settings and tries to work with them. If they are too far out of range, it won't start. It remembers you held the gas pedal at 60% and now thinks that's the new idle point. Anything below 60% and it's mind is blown.
The FIX: disconnect the battery, BOTH terminals, and touch both positive and negative cables together. This drains any residual energy in the system. You can also disconnect one terminal and turn the ignition on and/or headlights for about a minute. Next, reconnect the battery. Do not even get in the car! Put the key in the ignition through the window. Crank the car for 5-10 seconds. It won't start because it is syncing the sensors together. Specifically the crank and cam sensors. Turn the ignition off, wait a few seconds, then turn on and start it. It should start this time. It will run a little rough initially until everything syncs in and air gets out of the fuel rails. On a new engine, you need to run it at 2500 rpm to break the cam in for 20 minutes. May not be as critical on roller cams because they typically reuse the cams on rebuilders.
Issue #3: the fuel pump is losing its prime or not turning on after it starts. A fuel gauge can verify this. Probably not likely but if the computer doesn't see cam or crank signal after initial startup, it shuts the fuel pump off. A ground not hooked up or a connector plugged into the wrong sensor could cause this. Neon were bad about the cam sensor and coil pack having the same plug. You could plug them in backwards and fry the computer if you didn't know what you were doing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Okay, you have one of two issues, maybe three. Issue #1: if it starts and runs for 3 seconds, most likely it's a security issue. Red dot on dash will be on constant after it shuts off. Issue #2: if you touched the gas pedal at any point after reconnecting battery AND cranking the engine, you screwed the computer up. Whenever you reconnect the battery to the system, the computer it is basically brain dead. It has a standard initial start protocal, unless you jack with it. That means touching the gas pedal, not having connectors plugged in ECT. The computer instantly remembers those initial settings and tries to work with them. If they are too far out of range, it won't start. It remembers you held the gas pedal at 60% and now thinks that's the new idle point. Anything below 60% and it's mind is blown.
The FIX: disconnect the battery, BOTH terminals, and touch both positive and negative cables together. This drains any residual energy in the system. You can also disconnect one terminal and turn the ignition on and/or headlights for about a minute. Next, reconnect the battery. Do not even get in the car! Put the key in the ignition through the window. Crank the car for 5-10 seconds. It won't start because it is syncing the sensors together. Specifically the crank and cam sensors. Turn the ignition off, wait a few seconds, then turn on and start it. It should start this time. It will run a little rough initially until everything syncs in and air gets out of the fuel rails. On a new engine, you need to run it at 2500 rpm to break the cam in for 20 minutes. May not be as critical on roller cams because they typically reuse the cams on rebuilders.
Issue #3: the fuel pump is losing its prime or not turning on after it starts. A fuel gauge can verify this. Probably not likely but if the computer doesn't see cam or crank signal after initial startup, it shuts the fuel pump off. A ground not hooked up or a connector plugged into the wrong sensor could cause this. Neon were bad about the cam sensor and coil pack having the same plug. You could plug them in backwards and fry the computer if you didn't know what you were doing.
Disconnecting the battery and holding the terminals together doesn't do shit
Okay, you have one of two issues, maybe three. Issue #1: if it starts and runs for 3 seconds, most likely it's a security issue. Red dot on dash will be on constant after it shuts off. Issue #2: if you touched the gas pedal at any point after reconnecting battery AND cranking the engine, you screwed the computer up. Whenever you reconnect the battery to the system, the computer it is basically brain dead. It has a standard initial start protocal, unless you jack with it. That means touching the gas pedal, not having connectors plugged in ECT. The computer instantly remembers those initial settings and tries to work with them. If they are too far out of range, it won't start. It remembers you held the gas pedal at 60% and now thinks that's the new idle point. Anything below 60% and it's mind is blown.
The FIX: disconnect the battery, BOTH terminals, and touch both positive and negative cables together. This drains any residual energy in the system. You can also disconnect one terminal and turn the ignition on and/or headlights for about a minute. Next, reconnect the battery. Do not even get in the car! Put the key in the ignition through the window. Crank the car for 5-10 seconds. It won't start because it is syncing the sensors together. Specifically the crank and cam sensors. Turn the ignition off, wait a few seconds, then turn on and start it. It should start this time. It will run a little rough initially until everything syncs in and air gets out of the fuel rails. On a new engine, you need to run it at 2500 rpm to break the cam in for 20 minutes. May not be as critical on roller cams because they typically reuse the cams on rebuilders.
Issue #3: the fuel pump is losing its prime or not turning on after it starts. A fuel gauge can verify this. Probably not likely but if the computer doesn't see cam or crank signal after initial startup, it shuts the fuel pump off. A ground not hooked up or a connector plugged into the wrong sensor could cause this. Neon were bad about the cam sensor and coil pack having the same plug. You could plug them in backwards and fry the computer if you didn't know what you were doing.
[/QUOTE
Okay, you have one of two issues, maybe three. Issue #1: if it starts and runs for 3 seconds, most likely it's a security issue. Red dot on dash will be on constant after it shuts off. Issue #2: if you touched the gas pedal at any point after reconnecting battery AND cranking the engine, you screwed the computer up. Whenever you reconnect the battery to the system, the computer it is basically brain dead. It has a standard initial start protocal, unless you jack with it. That means touching the gas pedal, not having connectors plugged in ECT. The computer instantly remembers those initial settings and tries to work with them. If they are too far out of range, it won't start. It remembers you held the gas pedal at 60% and now thinks that's the new idle point. Anything below 60% and it's mind is blown.
The FIX: disconnect the battery, BOTH terminals, and touch both positive and negative cables together. This drains any residual energy in the system. You can also disconnect one terminal and turn the ignition on and/or headlights for about a minute. Next, reconnect the battery. Do not even get in the car! Put the key in the ignition through the window. Crank the car for 5-10 seconds. It won't start because it is syncing the sensors together. Specifically the crank and cam sensors. Turn the ignition off, wait a few seconds, then turn on and start it. It should start this time. It will run a little rough initially until everything syncs in and air gets out of the fuel rails. On a new engine, you need to run it at 2500 rpm to break the cam in for 20 minutes. May not be as critical on roller cams because they typically reuse the cams on rebuilders.
Issue #3: the fuel pump is losing its prime or not turning on after it starts. A fuel gauge can verify this. Probably not likely but if the computer doesn't see cam or crank signal after initial startup, it shuts the fuel pump off. A ground not hooked up or a connector plugged into the wrong sensor could cause this. Neon were bad about the cam sensor and coil pack having the same plug. You could plug them in backwards and fry the computer if you didn't know what you were doing.
Tried the battery thing, the key chime thing, the hold the pedal to the floor, the fuse pull thing etc, same result. ill try it that way. If I had things unplugged etc. i would have a code for that, what i have is no code but a check engine light that will not go off. stays on, three different scan tools say no codes present, or pending .I'm aware of the motor break in procedure however this cant be performed if the car does not run.as far as the asd antitheft system is concerned the light is not illuminated.
 

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Disconnecting the battery and holding the terminals together doesn't do shit


Tried the battery thing, the key chime thing, the hold the pedal to the floor, the fuse pull thing etc, same result. ill try it that way. If I had things unplugged etc. i would have a code for that, what i have is no code but a check engine light that will not go off. stays on, three different scan tools say no codes present, or pending .I'm aware of the motor break in procedure however this cant be performed if the car does not run.as far as the asd antitheft system is concerned the light is not illuminated.
I'm not sure on this, but, there is what's called a tone wheel on the crank. Some bolt to the back of the crank inside the engine. There are two different tone wheels for these engines sometimes. Some are 32 tooth tone wheels, some are 64 tooth tone wheels. Everything else on the engine is identical, except this. If you had a 32 tooth and you installed a 64 tooth, or vise versa, it could give you this problem. Initially, the computer sees crank and cam signals and will start. But, once running, it doesn't know what to do with with the extra or not enough signals its getting.
I ran into this on an 02 4.7 Ram. Ones before 02 were 32 tooth, ones after were 64 tooth. Ones before 02 were high dollar. Ones after were reasonable. Bought a later one, pulled both cranks, swapped tone wheels and everything was good.
One thing you might try is disconnecting the crank sensor. This forces it to rely on the cam sensor for timing, which would be correct for either engine. Sometimes this works, sometimes not.
Check your VIN to see what tone wheel it calls for. A Reman engine could have came from anything and got entered into the system wrong.
Another option, you could have a sensor shorting something out. Start unplugging sensors, on the engine, you don't absolutely need. See if anything changes.
Bought a 97 Neon, wouldn't start. Everything looked fine but no voltage to coil. Thought computer was bad, replaced it, nothing. Bought another engine harness. Plugged it into the computer only, had power to coil. YEAH! Plugged everthing back in, no start. No power to coil again. The result, the transmission speed sensor shorted out internally and was grounding out the coil. Unplugged it, started right up.
You can check the tone wheel externally either manually or electrically. A scanner should be able to check it. If you don't have that, hook up an OHM meter to the crank sensor. I don't know the procedure for this but it is doable. Rotate the engine on full revolution. If you have 32 signals by half way around, you know its a 64 tooth. You could do this with a screwdriver or 1/4" extension stuck in the hole and rotating the engine by hand/breaker bar and counting the indentions. Most of the times the tone wheel is stamped steel bolted to the crank. Sometimes though, the crank is actually machined onto one of the counter weights.
 
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