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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello I have my first charger for the last few years I love her she鈥檚 an 2008 SE I鈥檓 having computer issues is reason I鈥檓 here have a few questions and no real straight forward answers I would appreciate if anyone would respond to this thread about my computer I need a new one which isn鈥檛 a issue my issue is can I buy a used one out another dodger until I can get brand new computer and if I do get a new computer can I have a locksmith program it or the dealership is my only option... thanks in advance
 

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2017 Charger R/T Blacktop
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Welcome from AZ, which computer, there are multiple.
 
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Welcome to the forum from Western NY. Sorry to hear about your computer issues. As Dodgeguy mentioned, there are several computer modules in these cars. While a couple probably don't need programming, I think most of them do, as they are programmed for the specific vehicle and the options that vehicle has.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thank you guys for the warm welcome y鈥檃ll are awesome already 馃グ this is what it鈥檚 reading as of yesterday my mechanic says multiple lights and no relearn (meaning it wont) means it鈥檚 the computer iv had my crank sensor replaced as well I really don鈥檛 want a new one cause I take care of this one lol there鈥檚 nonthing wrong other then these codes and I need front struts 馃檹馃徑
123610
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Welcome to the forum from Western NY. Sorry to hear about your computer issues. As Dodgeguy mentioned, there are several computer modules in these cars. While a couple probably don't need programming, I think most of them do, as they are programmed for the specific vehicle and the options that vehicle has.
Thank you 馃槉 I posted the picture of what the diagnostic says
 

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I have no additional insights beyond what was already mentioned, but welcome to the Z, from Pittsburgh! I hope it all shakes out okay!
 

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Are you sure your battery is in good condition and has good voltage? 4 of the 5 error codes you're showing relate to low voltage. The electronics in these vehicles are sensitive to low voltage and will throw a lot of strange codes if the battery is bad.
 

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Hello I have my first charger for the last few years I love her she鈥檚 an 2008 SE I鈥檓 having computer issues is reason I鈥檓 here have a few questions and no real straight forward answers I would appreciate if anyone would respond to this thread about my computer I need a new one which isn鈥檛 a issue my issue is can I buy a used one out another dodger until I can get brand new computer and if I do get a new computer can I have a locksmith program it or the dealership is my only option... thanks in advance
hello and welcome from Virginia. I, too, have an 08 and have a few issues but nothing like yours. I don't know why, but over the winter i developed a slow coolant leak I was unaware of. suddenly, right after I left for work every morning, I would get a electronic throttle control alarm. when I discovered the low coolant and topped it off, the alarm stopped. after a while I started getting the ETC alarm again, and sure enough, my coolant was low. happened every time the coolant got low, up until I got the leak fixed. point is, you can never tell what will trigger these alarms.
 

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Hi, like another poster mentioned, I would question the need for a computer. Of the codes listed, they are all on the same circuit, power and ground. I would first check and clean battery terminals and connectors. Have battery and charging system tested at any parts store for free.
Next, I would check all of the grounds on the block/engine. Don't just look at them, take the bolt out, and wire brush the terminals and the block. A small detail brush works great for this. You can buy a 3 pack at most parts stores. One is plastic, one brass, one stainless steel. They're usually less than $10.
Next, check voltage at the connectors. A cheap volt meter, less than $20 at most hardware stores will work. You should have typically 5, 8, or 12 volts to at least one of the pins at each connector. I'm not sure which voltage they use for the throttle system.
I have had problems with the electronic throttle control on two different cars. The traction control light would come on with the lighting bolt. There are 3 circuits in this system, kind of a triple safety system. There is a "B" circuit, an "E" circuit and an "F" circuit. If any one of those fail, it could be causing those errors. With a scanner like the one shown, you can monitor and graph each circuit on the same screen. Car does not need to be running, just key on. Monitor each while fully depressing the gas pedal several times. They should be nice smooth curves. You should be able to check voltage with the same tool.
There are two main parts to the accelerator pedal. One, the pedal itself. Two, the throttle actuator motor. These typically fail and contain the TPS. I would find a used one at a salvage yard and try that first. No programming required. Then I would try the gas pedal itself. I had a 2010, should be the same system as yours, that would do wierd things once in awhile. Bucking and skipping, loss of throttle control. You could shut it off while driving, turn it back on and it'd be fine again for awhile. Swapped out the throttle motor, helped for a few days then started again. Swapped out gas pedal and it fixed it. It may have been just the gas pedal but could have been both. It had a bad "F" circuit.
Computer numbers have to match to work. On top of that, you have to know if you have security keys or not. When a computer is brand new, it will work on either system. But, once installed, it checks for security or not and burns the chip that way. It is not reversible. Learned the hard way. VIN will have to be programmed at the dealer. Call around because prices are all over the place. It only takes about 15 minutes to do. Usually you can find one that will only charge a half hour labor, around $70. Sometimes you can twist their arm nicely and they'll do it. A box of Krispy Kremes doesn't hurt either in the front seat or at the service desk. ;)
 
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