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Discussion Starter #1
i was driving gettin on the on ramp not giving it to much gas or anything out of the ordinary then my car beeps and the engine light was on i got the code P0016 it says its a timing misalignment i drive a 06 charger sxt anyone else have this problem and is it a easy fix? should i be driving still? i dont notice any difference in driving
 

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i was driving gettin on the on ramp not giving it to much gas or anything out of the ordinary then my car beeps and the engine light was on i got the code P0016 it says its a timing misalignment i drive a 06 charger sxt anyone else have this problem and is it a easy fix? should i be driving still? i dont notice any difference in driving

Have you performed any mods lately? or even pre maintenance? need alittle more info
 

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Discussion Starter #3
just oil changes i recently went from 87 to 89 octane i read on here it was better for the car nothin else really??
 

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Possible Causes of DTC P0016, quoted from the service:

ERRATIC CAM POSITION SENSOR SIGNAL
CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR TONE WHEEL/PULSE RING
ERRATIC CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR SIGNAL
CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR TONE WHEEL/PULSE RING
CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
CRANKSHAFT POSITION


Diagnostic Test
1. ACTIVE DTC

WARNING
: When the engine is operating, do not stand in direct line with the fan. Do not put your hands near the pulleys, belts, or fan. Do not wear loose clothing. Failure to follow these instructions can result in personal injury or death.
With the scan tool clear the DTC(s).

Start the engine and run until operating temp is reached. (Closed Loop)
If the DTC does not reset it may be necessary to test drive the vehicle.

Does the P0016 return?
Yes >> Go To 2
No >> Refer to the INTERMITTENT CONDITION Diagnostic Procedure.
Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE)

2. CHECKING THE CMP SIGNAL WITH A LAB SCOPE
With a lab scope, backprobe the (K44) CMP Signal circuit at the CMP Sensor harness connector.

WARNING
: When the engine is operating, do not stand in direct line with the fan. Do not put your hands near the pulleys, belts, or fan. Do not wear loose clothing. Failure to follow these instructions can result in personal injury or death.

Start the engine.
Observe the lab scope screen.
Are there any irregular or missing signals?
Yes >> Go To 3
No >> Go To 6 9 - 10 ENGINE ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTICS LX

3. CMP WIRE HARNESS INSPECTION
Turn the ignition off.
Visually inspect the related wire harness. Look for any chafed, pierced, pinched, or partially broken wires.
Visually inspect the related wire harness connectors. Look for broken, bent, pushed out, or corroded terminals.
Make sure the Crankshaft Position Sensor and the Camshaft Position Sensor are properly installed and the mounting bolt(s) are torqued to their proper specification.
Refer to any TSBs that may apply.

Were any of the above conditions present?
Yes >> Repair as necessary.
Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
No >> Go To 4

4. TONE WHEEL/PULSE RING INSPECTION
Remove the Camshaft Position Sensor.
Inspect the Tone Wheel/Pulse Ring for damage, foreign material, or excessive movement.

Were any problems found?
Yes >> Repair or replace the Tone Wheel/Pulse Ring as necessary.
Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
No >> Go To 5

5. CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR
If there are no possible causes remaining, view repair.
Repair Replace the Camshaft Position Sensor.
Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE)

6. ERRATIC CMP SIGNAL
Turn the ignition off.
Remove the lab scope probe.

WARNING
: When the engine is operating, do not stand in direct line with the fan. Do not put your hands near the pulleys, belts, or fan. Do not wear loose clothing. Failure to follow these instructions can result in personal injury or death.

Ignition on, engine not running.
With scan tool, erase DTCs.
Start the engine.
Gently tap on and wiggle the Cam Position Sensor.
Ignition on, engine not running.
Inspect the Sensor connector and harness connector, and inspect the PCM connector and harness connector for loose, bent, corroded, or pushed out pins/terminals.
Inspect the related wire harness and the splices in the CMP circuit.

Does the P0016 return?
Yes >> Repair the wiring/connector concerns as needed or replace the Camshaft Position Sensor.
Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
No >> Go To 7 LX ENGINE ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTICS 9 - 11

7. CHECKING THE CKP SIGNAL WITH A LAB SCOPE
Turn the ignition off.
With a lab scope, backprobe the (K24) CKP Signal circuit at the CKP
harness connector.

WARNING: When the engine is operating, do not stand in direct line with the fan. Do not put your hands near the pulleys, belts, or fan. Do not wear loose clothing. Failure to follow these instructions can result in personal injury or death.

Start the engine.
Observe the lab scope screen.
Are there any irregular or missing signals?
Yes >> Go To 8
No >> Go To 10

8. CKP WIRE HARNESS INSPECTION
Turn the ignition off.
Visually inspect the related wire harness. Look for any chafed, pierced, pinched, or partially broken wires.
Visually inspect the related wire harness connectors. Look for broken, bent, pushed out, or corroded terminals.
Make sure the Crankshaft Position Sensor and the Camshaft Position Sensor are properly installed and the mounting bolt(s) are torqued to their proper specification.

Refer to any TSBs that may apply.

Were any of the above conditions present?
Yes >> Repair as necessary.
Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
No >> Go To 9

9. TONE WHEEL/FLEX PLATE INSPECTION
Remove the Crankshaft Position Sensor.
Inspect the Tone Wheel/Flex Plate slots for damage, foreign material, or excessive movement.

Were any problems found?
Yes >> Repair or replace the Tone Wheel/Flex Plate as necessary.
Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
No >> Replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor.
Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE) 9 - 12 ENGINE ELECTRICAL DIAGNOSTICS LX

10. ERRATIC CKP SIGNAL

NOTE
: The conditions that set this DTC are not present at this time. The following test may help in identifying the intermittent condition.

WARNING: When the engine is operating, do not stand in direct line with the fan. Do not put your hands near the pulleys, belts, or fan. Do not wear loose clothing. Failure to follow these instructions can result in personal injury or death.

Start the engine.
Gently tap on and wiggle the Crank Position Sensor.
Turn the ignition off.
Inspect the Sensor connector and harness connector, and inspect the PCM connector and harness connector for loose, bent, corroded, or pushed out pins/terminals.
Inspect the related wire harness and the splices in the CKP circuits.

Were any problems found?
Yes >> Repair the wiring/connector concerns as needed or replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor.
Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - STANDARD PROCEDURE)
No >> Test Complete.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
so does this mean i should replace it i was driving to work and i tried to accelerate but nothin happend its almost like the tranny slipped but i think its the timing chain skipping im goin to a mechanic tmrw i just want some insight
 

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Discussion Starter #6
the dealership said it could just need a re-flash is that possible? 120 total does that sound right?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
so i went to the dealer they say i have a bad water pump seal, bad hydraulic tensioner and my timing belt skipped one tooth and the grand total is $1330 is this doable by myself? th parts are 485 im sure i can find them cheaper somewhere else and they say my crank difference is reading 15.8-15.9 any info and insight would be great thanks!!!!!
 

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so i went to the dealer they say i have a bad water pump seal, bad hydraulic tensioner and my timing belt skipped one tooth and the grand total is $1330 is this doable by myself? th parts are 485 im sure i can find them cheaper somewhere else and they say my crank difference is reading 15.8-15.9 any info and insight would be great thanks!!!!!

ME TOO!

I wanted to come in here and share my story as I found this, thought "no way, not me" and the mechanic told me what was wrong like he was reading your post.

I have a 2009 Charger SXT and was just pulling out of the gas station (perfectly normal) on a rainy day and the check engine light came on, quickly followed by the traction-slipping/esp button light. This was all accompanied by cruise control not working, not being able to get to 4th gear, and an AWFUL chugging while trying to maintain any constant speed on the highway. (i was at work and had to get my car home with a carpool of people in it, so i had to drive it). The engine sounded fine (when accelerating or idling), and it honestly felt like the car couldn't sense how fast the rear wheels were going so it wouldn't get to 4th, and it dropped the traction control. I tried the key trick to just shut off the traction control, but the problem continued. when i shut the car off, i did the key back and forth thing and got the "0016" code.

I took it to the dealer (i'm at 44k miles, past my 36k bumper to bumper, but i still have lifetime drive-train warranty) so they could at least diagnose the problem. It took them 4 days (including several calls to Chrysler's hotline to try to figure it out because all they knew was that the crank and cam sensor was "sending gibberish to the computer."

Finally, I got a call on Friday (dropped it off monday) saying that the water pump had leaked onto the timing belt, causing it to slip a couple teeth and that they had to order a new pump, seal, and timing belt and they would have it done the following Monday (which ended up being Tuesday).

THE GOOD PART: it was all FREE and covered by the warranty. I got very lucky there. I just thought I'd share my similar story with you guys on the forum. Now I just have to figure out if there's a general tie-rod-end problem in these cars because those went at 40k.
 

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I had some of the same problems, but it was not your issue and it was NOT covered under the warranty.

The tie-rod question is a good one. Mine were in BAD shape at 65,000 miles. Perhaps because it's a heavy car with large tires? Anyone have the same problem.
 
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