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I wanted to update my fellow members regarding the p1004 code.. As we know there is a lot of post for the actuator problem where the dealership is charging 1000 plus dollars to fix this problem. Well I took the chance to buy the Actuator for $198.99 and it took me 5 minutes to install it. The dealership told me they would have to update the software in the computer in order for the engine line to go off(which was a bunch of crap) for $100.00… Instead I installed the part and reset the computer by taking off the battery cables for an hour. Once I re- connected the car battery and started the car, the engine line has not come on, and I have passed emissions.

Whatever you do, Don’t pay the dealership a dime… Pay for the Actuator and do it yourself. It takes 5 minutes and $300.00 more in your pocket.

I hate the dealerships.
 

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What is the p1004???
 

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Thats great man, save you alot of money!
 

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Oh man you just saved members with this problem in the future a ton of money. Rep points for that!!
 

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RE:p1004 Error Code, Would it be possible for you to post a how to in order to fix this problem complete with graphics if available, i have the same problem happenning with my Charger, i understand its an all too common problem for the 3.5L engine, is there or has there ever been a recall on this????
please if anyone could send me email regarding this info at [email protected]
thnx much fellow members...
 

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Thanks for the Advice.... It is what I am having this time as we speak. After checking on the free scan test, He found P1004 (Short Runner Valve Control performance), P0870 (Trans fluid pressure sensor, 733 (Gear 3 Incorrect Ratio) & PO760 (Shift Solonoic C Malfunction) The symptoms are sudden accelleration or transmission disengage and front engin acceleration noise. Can Someone give me advice on the other 3. I now know what to do on P1004. I hope to save the $1000 on this one issue. Thanks a lot.
 

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Im having this issue and the dealer said it is going to be $900 to fix. Is there a YouTube video or anything that shows how to do it? And does anyone have a link for the part I need?
 

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2017 Dodge Charger R/T
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I see in the post that was posted that having a Catch Can in the car should prevent the short runner solenoid from seizing up. Hope that is correct, as that is why I put the catch can on the car in the first place, not just because it looks so cool... Ha ha ha
 

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Okay so I wanted to update this thread for future people with this issue.

I have had the engine light and this code (did the key trick to find code) off and on for well over a year now. It started with the light and the next day it was off ... then other times it was a couple days then it went off. The more times this happened the longer the light stayed on.

A while ago it took much longer to turn off so I eventually tried the Barrymans cleaner trick hoping it would not cone back on and it did come back on.
So I thought okay I will really get in there spray tons more cleaner and go to town on it and then nothing.

So at that point the light just Did NOT turn off and it stayed that way for over a month and just no matter what would not turn off.

My fear was spending on $140 on this Short Runner control valve actuator and then it just not work.
BUT at this point I knew I would rather try this before taking it in for more work and get some BS diagnosis form a mechanic and he would say I need to replace the entire manifold or something for a grand or two.

SO I decided to order it ... I got the part #68166449AA on eBay for $138 from QuickParts eBay store.

I took off the old one, slid the supplied O-ring on the new control valve and installed the new! I disconnected the negative on the car that morning I knew I was gonna install this so the battery was disconnected for hours before install.

Got done with install and started it up .... Fired up like a champ and no light ... drove around a while and no light. now about 2 weeks later STILL No Light!!! :)

So even if you think well hell the light will not turn off so I doubt this part will fix the issue .... IT WILL!!!

I would suggest when this happens don't mess with the cleaning to be the end result ... do the cleaning cause it will be needed regardless and then order this part to save yourself the time and hassle.

Thanks for all info on this forum!!! :)
 

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I wish I would have read this post earlier. I had the same issue and took it to the dealer. I was told that it was a runner valve issue and that was not able to be serviced. The whole intake manifold wold need to be replaced for $1800. I took my car back and ordered the intake manifold for $600 and replaced it myself.
reading this post makes me want to go to the dealership and give the service manager a piece of my mind.
 

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1004 code

I replaced the solenoid and sprayed a can of carb cleaner on the valve itself. The error code is still there. Is the flash necessary? Is there anything else that can be done before intake replacement to fix this?
 
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