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problems after installing new battery

3K views 13 replies 3 participants last post by  guinness1944 
#1 ·
I'm new to the forum and desperately need help. I just replaced the battery in my 06 srt8 and I'm having MAJOR problems. The car starts right up but several of the warning lights on the dash are on, the power locks, windows, wipers, turn signals and maybe more aren't working. The stereo is locked, only shows anything when I hit the CD eject button. This sucks! Please help, thanks in advance!
 
#2 ·
Not sure why you would be having these kind of problems just from a battery swap. Did you get a battery with the correct CCAs
 
#3 ·
Check the cable connections/connectors to the battery. Make sure you have a tight secure connection on both positive and negative terminals.
Hopefully, during the battery replacement the negative and positive cables did not touch the wrong battery post.
Plug a OBD2/CAN scanner into the OBD2 port and see if any DTCs are logged.
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#4 ·
I actually did put the cables on backwards for a second at first because they were on opposite sides from the old battery and my dumbass didn't check first. The ground cable started smoking and I immediately disconnected it. I replaced it with a larger gauge cable as the old one was very thin and installed it correctly. Didn't think it was a big deal but I'm starting to worry it was now. Did I fry the ECU or something?
 
#5 ·
I'm thinking that you may have just blown some fuses.
 
#6 ·
On the regular flat fuses the only one I found blown was the one to the radio. But it has some other weird Square fuses and solid black Square few things that are kind of big that I've never dealt with before and I don't know how to tell if they're blown. Are some of those possibly bad? I figured I blew some with the fuse box being next to the battery and connected to the positive connection.
 
#7 · (Edited)
You should check ALL fuses including those under the hood. Check the once, check them twice, next thing might be a damaged PCM. I think that the big black ones are Relays and not fuses
 
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#9 ·
Well the PCM would affect things like the performance of the vehicle amongst other electrical aspects. Not really sure on all it controls, as I'm not a electrical guy. But, I would think a voltmeter could be used to check and see if those relays were affected. Hopefully, some of the electrical guys will chime in
 
#10 ·
Well to my man who said check ALL the fuses, good advice. I found a handful blown, none of which had to do with any of the problems but knowing that sometimes fuses are linked even though there's no way of knowing it of course I replace them all (those little square shits are expensive!) . After that I am 100% back in business short of my check engine light still being on which I'm assuming that if I disconnect the battery for a minute or so to reset it that will go away as well. Thank you all so much for your help, happy to be a member of the group. Look forward to interacting with you all more in the future and if I ever have any info that will benefit anyone on here I'll be more than happy to share. Stoked to have my baby back in proper form!
 
#11 · (Edited)
Well to my man who said check ALL the fuses, good advice. I found a handful blown, none of which had to do with any of the problems but knowing that sometimes fuses are linked even though there's no way of knowing it of course I replace them all (those little square shits are expensive!) . After that I am 100% back in business short of my check engine light still being on which I'm assuming that if I disconnect the battery for a minute or so to reset it that will go away as well. Thank you all so much for your help, happy to be a member of the group. Look forward to interacting with you all more in the future and if I ever have any info that will benefit anyone on here I'll be more than happy to share. Stoked to have my baby back in proper form!


Schweeeeet!!!! Glad it's working out for you. If the check engine doesn't go off right away. There's a key "trick" where you can turn the key (starting in ACC) to On, Acc, On, Acc,On and you should get a four digit code. Then we might be able to find out what that is too.:TU:
 
#12 ·
Well guys, battery isn't holding a charge. Through a little troubleshooting im pretty sure I blew the alternator. Is anyone familiar with swapping it on the 6.1? I know my way around a set of tools pretty well and would prefer doing it myself if its not too complicated. Found a few things googling and sounds pretty straightforward but I wanted to see if anyone on here had any pointers before diving in.
 
#13 ·
A few key things to be aware of ...

Removal:
Disconnect the negative cable from the battery
Release the serpentine belt tension using the tensioner. On some older model years (MYs) you rotate the belt tensioner counterclockwise and new MYs you rotate the belt tensioner clockwise (not sure about 2006 MY) until it reaches it's stop.
Remove the belt and gently rotate/release the tensioner to it's freearm position.
Unsnap plastic insulator cap from B+ output terminal.
Remove B+ terminal mounting nut at rear of generator. Disconnect terminal from generator.
Disconnect field wire connector at rear of generator by pushing on connector tab.
Remove generator support bracket nut and bolt
Remove support bracket (newer MYs 6.4L don't have the bracket)
Remove generator mounting bolts
Remove generator from vehicle.

When installing the serpentine belt ...

Here's where you will need to do some research.
On some older MYs you route the belt around all pulleys except the idler pulley. Rotate the tensioner arm until it contacts it’s stop position. Route the belt around the idler and slowly let the tensioner rotate into the belt. Make sure the belt is seated onto all pulleys.
On newer 6.4L MYs you route the belt around all pulleys except the water pump pulley. Rotate the tensioner arm until it contacts it’s stop position. Route the belt around the water pump pulley and slowly let the tensioner rotate into the belt.
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