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Consider this a review of my Progress springs/sways/Koni combo and what it takes to make it work. Sorry guys no pics yet :shakehead:, I'm working on it.

I pre assembled my front strut/spring combo using new Chrysler isolators, dust covers and bump stops. I trimmed the new stops per Progress’ instructions. You can clean and reuse the stock pieces, but I chose to do it this way to save time the day I did the install. For the spring install, I borrowed a spring compressor for the assembly. Once this was assembled, I removed the stock assemblies and installed the new Koni/Progress ones. I used installation instructions from Hotchkis, as Progress’ were lacking. Following Hotchkis’ instructions made this a pretty straight forward deal. The front sway was a real easy install, just bolts in place of the stock one. The Progress sway is 35mm vs. the R&T bar at 30mm, both bars are tubular,I used BWoody end links in place of the stock ones. The rear spring /shock/sway install required dropping the rear cradle(floor jack under the center section) and exhaust, Once again using Hotchkis instructions. On the rear shocks, I simply cleaned and re-used the dust covers& mounts on the Konis. For the rear springs I also cleaned and reused the stock isolators. The rear Progress springs have 3 slightly tighter wound coils on one end, these go to the top. Make sure to properly locate the springs in the isolators for final assembly. The rear stock sway was also removed and replaced with the Progress sway while the cradle was down. The rear Progress sway is 22mm vs. the stock R&T bar at 15mm, both these bars are solid, once again using BWoody end links in place of the stock ones. Once the installation was complete I road tested the car and then completely re-tightened all bolts to prevent the dreaded “clunk”

OK, now for the SPC parts install and alignment…I used a harbor frt. tool ball joint press and a custom machined removal/inst. Adapter(socket) to install the rear bushings while the control links were installed on the car. It was pretty much unbolt the outer bolts to the rear knuckles, press the stock bushings out and press in the new offset ones, reinstall the bolts and tighten with the suspension under a simulated load (floor jack). It didn’t change my ride ht. as much as I thought it would, but the rear tires are not in a neg. camber situation now

Installing the SPC adjustable Frt. upper control arms is also pretty straight forward, on the driver’s side you have to remove your air box (or in my case CAI) and remove the bolts on the radiator reservoir and move it out of the way to access the control arm bolts, but the passenger side was a pita due to the rear control arm bolt location. You will have to remove the two small Neg. ground wires on the strut tower as well as the bolt holding the vacuum switch that is nearby. If your car has the cover over the PCM you will have to remove it to gain access to the rear C/A bolt. I also had to loosen up but not totally remove the spring/strut combo, and remove the sway bar to shock end link bolts in order to remove the cont. arm bolts. I installed everything and final tightened all the bolts w/ the suspension in a loaded position(floor jack).I'm going to take a blast down the freeway to finish settling the suspension before I get it aligned.

Took the car to the alignment shop (Lipseys in Vallejo as they had the only rack around that the car in its lowered condition would fit on), numbers came out really nice using the SPC arms and bushings ( front camber before L -1.1* / R -0.5* after L-0.1*/R 0.0*, Rear camber before L -2.0*/R -1.9* after L-0.1*/ R -0.2*, caster stayed at 11.4*, total toe 0.1" F before /after 0.22 before and 0.11" after). The final lowering specs were 1.75" drop front and 2.6" rear, sounds like a lot but the car sets at 15.250" from wheel centerline to the fender lip at all 4 corners. More drop than Progress' advertised 1.5 & 1.7 supposedly "pre stressed" springs specs. I did send them an e-mail letting them know this, but received no reply. I also had to use "Hotchkis" installation instructions during throughout as the only thing Progress addressed was cutting the bump stops, their tech dept. is hit or miss via e-mail, but they do handle things well over the phone. Overall Progress' product quality is good and their sways are a big improvement over the stockers (especially in the rear). The Koni shocks are of excellent quality,as are SPCs and Bwoodys products. With the Koni shock/strut & progress spring /sway combo the car rides excellent and handles very well. Overall I'm very satisfied (So far), but if you’re expecting a mild drop this setup is not for you. D,:beerchug:
 

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Congrats! Very nice right up too. I like that you torqued the link bolts under at least simulated load. I know that when the front and rear suspension modules (for all LX and LC cars) are assembled, all of the front and rear suspension links are torqued in a fixture that holds the knuckle at curb height. This way all the articulated bushings are at zero deflection when the car is at rest. Technically, when we lower our cars, the bushings are deflected most of the time and only pass "neutral" briefly on the rebound stroke. Anyway, I'm yammering, lol. Have fun, I know it seems like a totally different car now.
 
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