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Okay, I did it.. I bite the bullet and got myself the new 2011+ Spyder Headlights with LED DRL tubes.. I also bought a pair of HID 8000k Low and High beams. About a month ago I was searching the forums relentlessly trying to find answers about how the light output was and the quality of the housing itself.. I didn't have much luck.. If you're in the same boat I was, fear no more.. for I have created a full in depth review.. WITH PICTURES! :TU:

INSTALL:

Wiring aside, replacing the stock headlights with the spyders isn't to hard.. HOWEVER, you do have to take the bumper off.. This seems intimidating but If you can turn a ratchet you can do this.. Simply do what this dude tells you in this video: Spyder Auto Installation: 2011-13 Dodge Charger Light Tube Projector Headlights - YouTube If you're NOT installing HIDs and are just using halogen bulbs this is simply plug and play.. However you will have to switch out your bulbs. BUT.. and this is a big but, I would recommend NOT using halogen bulbs with these headlights as the low beams are projectors.. Your light output is gonna suck. Here's what I found out very quickly when installing HIDs.. Chargers HATE HIDs.. You will need both Resistors and Relays if you don't want your lights to flicker and randomly shut off. The wiring of the HIDs was definitely the hardest part.. If requested I can go more in depth with pictures and info of the install but honestly just save the hassle and take it to a shop. :4-dontknow:




REVIEW:

To clarify, I bought the 2011-2013 Spyder Headlights w/ DRL.. This is the NON HID model.. Which means it is for the Charger models that didn't come with factory stock HIDs.

As for quality of the housing itself I think they look fantastic.. Spyder upped their game to say the least. I was a little worried that because they're made in Taiwan they might look cheap or "plasticy" this is not the case.. They're very 'high-end' looking. These lights change the entire look of the front end.. I was worried these lights would take away the Muscle look and in a way they kind of did.. Don't get me wrong they look MEAN but compared to the stock lights I think the Spyders take it more into the Sport category IMO. They however, do not look ricey. Whatever the case may be.. They look great.

I live out in the middle of nowhere and tested these lights on unlit highways in the bush as well as cities. The low beam projectors actually produce a pretty nice cut off line and do not blind oncoming traffic.. I have not once been flashed. I'm using 8000k HIDs and found that these projectors dampen the light output a little bit.. If you live in the city you'll be fine but if you do a lot of night time highway driving I would recommend not going any lower than 10000k. Adjust the aim of the headlights down if need be. For the High beams get the brightest you can get your hands on.. nobody will be seeing them anyway. I have 8000k in mine and because it's a reflective housing it turns the highway into day time.. it's pretty fantastic. The LED DRL tube (Day time Running Lights) are probably the coolest feature and complete the look of the headlights. They're pure white but aren't obnoxiously bright, they stick out nicely.

Feel free to ask any questions, I will try to help best that I can.. If you would like to see a video of the lights at night let me know and I will upload it onto here..

ENJOY THE PICTURES:
 

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Thanks for the write up. They are starting to grow on me. Reps
 

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Very nice write-up brother!
 

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Dave
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...

I live out in the middle of nowhere and tested these lights on unlit highways in the bush as well as cities. The low beam projectors actually produce a pretty nice cut off line and do not blind oncoming traffic.. I have not once been flashed. I'm using 8000k HIDs and found that these projectors dampen the light output a little bit.. If you live in the city you'll be fine but if you do a lot of night time highway driving I would recommend not going any lower than 10000k. Adjust the aim of the headlights down if need be. For the High beams get the brightest you can get your hands on.. nobody will be seeing them anyway. I have 8000k in mine and because it's a reflective housing it turns the highway into day time.. it's pretty fantastic. The LED DRL tube (Day time Running Lights) are probably the coolest feature and complete the look of the headlights. They're pure white but aren't obnoxiously bright, they stick out nicely.
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First, let me say, great write-up. I appreciate anyone that takes the time to come back after installing and post pics, discuss their likes and dislikes, without being bias because it's not installed on their ride.

The only question that I have is about the comment on brightness. I was under the impression that the Kelvin temp rating on these described the color, not the brightness of the HID's... 4300k is bright white, closer to 6000k is a cleaner white, and 8000k is heading toward a darker blue color, and 10000k should be darn near purple. I wouldn't be surprised if a 6000k bulb would get you better visible light output.
Were you comparing the output of the 8000k bulbs in this setup to one a headlight housing that you had previously?
 
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I think hes referencing light output in temp rating as well because even though its not a full determination of light output as you increase in temp to get those different colors, the blue or the purple you do lose brightness if im correct i think 4300k is the best output and clearest white
 

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Dave
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I think hes referencing light output in temp rating as well because even though its not a full determination of light output as you increase in temp to get those different colors, the blue or the purple you do lose brightness if im correct i think 4300k is the best output and clearest white
That's what I thought. Going to a higher kelvin temp won't give you brighter light, necessarily.
 

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Drive it like u stole it!
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That's what I thought. Going to a higher kelvin temp won't give you brighter light, necessarily.
4300k is the cleanest white color as that's why most OEM's use it. They also have the most light output of all the colors/temperatures. The light output starts to drop as you go above 4300k and when you get to 10000k and higher, the light output is crap. I personally would never go above 6000k but that's me.
 

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Thanks for this write up .. I think you just sold me on them.. I got a free 500.00 amazon gift card coming soon from a credit card sign up bonus. Also amazon is the cheapest place i have found for these. Carid is about $100.00 more than amazon. Which is a win win for me.. Wife can't complain about spending more money on mods and i get mod money!
 

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I had hids in mine and all I ran was the cancellors..... Why do I need both of these now with these headlights???
You don't. Just did the install myself with 5000k HIDs and could not be any happier! All I had were the Error Code Eliminators/Cancellors as well.
 

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Thanks for this write up .. I think you just sold me on them.. I got a free 500.00 amazon gift card coming soon from a credit card sign up bonus. Also amazon is the cheapest place i have found for these. Carid is about $100.00 more than amazon. Which is a win win for me.. Wife can't complain about spending more money on mods and i get mod money!
Which CC sign up is this?! Sounds pretty awesome.

On another note. GREAT write up. Any other idea on who else might have these installed with pics?
 

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The only question that I have is about the comment on brightness. I was under the impression that the Kelvin temp rating on these described the color, not the brightness of the HID's... 4300k is bright white, closer to 6000k is a cleaner white, and 8000k is heading toward a darker blue color, and 10000k should be darn near purple. I wouldn't be surprised if a 6000k bulb would get you better visible light output.
Were you comparing the output of the 8000k bulbs in this setup to one a headlight housing that you had previously?
I think hes referencing light output
That's what I thought. Going to a higher kelvin temp won't give you brighter light, necessarily.
4300k is the cleanest white color as that's why most OEM's use it.
Sorry Guys, my mistake. I always thought that 10000K were brighter than 8000k or lower. I've seen a few people run 10000K with that hint of purple look and their light output was BRIGHT.. But perhaps they were just running better projectors.

I just found out some useful information.. Apparently 50 watt ballasts will melt these plastic lenses.. Good thing I'm running 35 watts. Don't let this happen to you!!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I had hids in mine and all I ran was the cancellors..... Why do I need both of these now with these headlights???
You don't. Just did the install myself with 5000k HIDs and could not be any happier! All I had were the Error Code Eliminators/Cancellors as well.
2011+ Chargers don't need warning cancellors as far as I know.. The reason you need resistors and relays is because the CANBUS computer doesn't recognize the temperature that HIDS burn at, causing them to flicker/shut off. My one light ran pretty well without anything but eventually started to flicker.
 

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Sorry Guys, my mistake. I always thought that 10000K were brighter than 8000k or lower. I've seen a few people run 10000K with that hint of purple look and their light output was BRIGHT.. But perhaps they were just running better projectors.

I just found out some useful information.. Apparently 50 watt ballasts will melt these plastic lenses.. Good thing I'm running 35 watts. Don't let this happen to you!!
Yeah, there are a lot of people that don't know that higher temp doesn't mean brighter light. There is also a lot of people that just buy them for the color and don't realize that at night in the rain, you will have a hard time seeing the road with anything above 6000k.
 

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Which CC sign up is this?! Sounds pretty awesome.

On another note. GREAT write up. Any other idea on who else might have these installed with pics?
Capital one venture card. But i think they have reduced it back down to the normal 20k miles (200.00 in gift cards) from the 50k they were offering.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
How is the projector cut off?
It has a great cut off line, no hot spots whatsoever.. Produces great light output without blinding people. The high beams, as they are in a reflective housing shoot light absolutely everywhere and lights the highway up like day time. Better than my off road lights I had on my old truck. Be careful though, as you will run people off the road if you leave them on by accident..
 

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Thanks for all the positive feedback.. I am currently working on a video of the relays and a night shot of the lights.. stay tuned.
 
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