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Hello everyone... I need some help as I am almost to the point of taking the car to the dealer. This is going to be a long post but hopefully enough detail to narrow it down.

Issue:

Some of my steering wheel controls aren't working. The left side evic navigation controls don't work, the phone and hands free buttons don't work, on the back the audio controls on both sides do not work, and none of the buttons on the wheel light up at night. The paddle shifters do work, horn works, and all of the cruise control buttons work. When this first started happening it was intermittent and really started with the audio controls. I would skip to the next track and it would delay so after 1 or 2 more pushes it would finally skip but would do 2 or 3 songs. I noticed the lights going out also. Then it was sometimes they worked and sometimes they didn't until eventually it spazzed out and the down button got stuck so the next time I started the car it did a cluster self test and never worked after that.

Background info:

I do not know if this is related or not but at one point I was trying to get the performance pages without having a tazer. In the long run I should have just forked out the money for the tazer but I was looking for a cheap solution. I found an app called SRTactivator in the Google play store for $4.99 so I bought it and gave it a shot. It did work. I got the performance pages on my evic and on the uconnect for $15. I was super excited. I needed to take the car in to get the cruise control recall done so I removed the performance pages. When I went to put them back on it was the middle of winter and like a dummy i had the car running when I tried to write the settings. It did load them again but I got a service shifter message and couldn't take the car out of park. Had to remove them again and turn the car on and off a few times, clear codes, and finally got back to normal. I don't remember at what point though the steering controls went out fully or if it is related to my hackish way to get the performance pages.

What i've done so far:

I thought for sure it was a clockspring issue so I pulled off my "multi function switch" and tested the clockspring with a multimeter using the passthrough tone. A couple pins seemed to not have pass through so I bought a new one for $350 (Thanks Dodge for not making the clockspring a separate piece.) . Swapped it out the other day and still have the same issues. Pulled everything back off again yesterday and took off dash panels to follow wires. I didn't see anything noticeable but there are a ton of wires to look at.


I actually bought a tazer, double bypass, and aux buttons but at this point its a paper weight since I can't navigate the evic to even use the tazer. :( .

Any suggestions or advice is more than welcome!
 

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Hello everyone... I need some help as I am almost to the point of taking the car to the dealer. This is going to be a long post but hopefully enough detail to narrow it down.

Issue:

Some of my steering wheel controls aren't working. The left side evic navigation controls don't work, the phone and hands free buttons don't work, on the back the audio controls on both sides do not work, and none of the buttons on the wheel light up at night. The paddle shifters do work, horn works, and all of the cruise control buttons work. When this first started happening it was intermittent and really started with the audio controls. I would skip to the next track and it would delay so after 1 or 2 more pushes it would finally skip but would do 2 or 3 songs. I noticed the lights going out also. Then it was sometimes they worked and sometimes they didn't until eventually it spazzed out and the down button got stuck so the next time I started the car it did a cluster self test and never worked after that.

Background info:

I do not know if this is related or not but at one point I was trying to get the performance pages without having a tazer. In the long run I should have just forked out the money for the tazer but I was looking for a cheap solution. I found an app called SRTactivator in the Google play store for $4.99 so I bought it and gave it a shot. It did work. I got the performance pages on my evic and on the uconnect for $15. I was super excited. I needed to take the car in to get the cruise control recall done so I removed the performance pages. When I went to put them back on it was the middle of winter and like a dummy i had the car running when I tried to write the settings. It did load them again but I got a service shifter message and couldn't take the car out of park. Had to remove them again and turn the car on and off a few times, clear codes, and finally got back to normal. I don't remember at what point though the steering controls went out fully or if it is related to my hackish way to get the performance pages.

What i've done so far:

I thought for sure it was a clockspring issue so I pulled off my "multi function switch" and tested the clockspring with a multimeter using the passthrough tone. A couple pins seemed to not have pass through so I bought a new one for $350 (Thanks Dodge for not making the clockspring a separate piece.) . Swapped it out the other day and still have the same issues. Pulled everything back off again yesterday and took off dash panels to follow wires. I didn't see anything noticeable but there are a ton of wires to look at.


I actually bought a tazer, double bypass, and aux buttons but at this point its a paper weight since I can't navigate the evic to even use the tazer. :( .

Any suggestions or advice is more than welcome!
Hello, I have the same problem too, I wonder if you fix the problem and how ?
 

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Bump. Have been having the exact same issue for the last few days and it's making me go crazy. Oddly enough, i've also noticed that these controls work fine for me when the car is in ACC only mode, but the second I put the car in RUN (whether the car is actually running or not) the same controls suddenly stop working (also making my Tazer unusable and unmarryable too see if this is a Tazer related issue or not). I installed a factory backup cam and unlocked the feature w/ my Tazer. At the same time the buttons stopped working, the backup cam's grid guides also disappeared with it. Trying to enable grid lines via settings un-checks itself every time. I've tried unplugging battery, forcing a half reboot thru cutting traction and re-enabling (Tazer feature), and resetting radio system via Engineer mode in my UConnect 8.4. All no dice. Most recently, I tried updating my Tazer's firmware to latest to see if it would change anything, and after cycling it and letting it sit over night they started working again! ... for like half a day, then the problem came back.

Also oddly enough, at the same time the controls became usable again in RUN I was able to enable grid lines in backup cam again, but the feed was super staticy, almost as if the feed was bad. Opened the trunk and checked backup cam connection and everything seemed fine. After the half day at the same time the controls stopped working again backup cam feed returned to normal (odd), but with grid lines gone again. I didn't think to try a Tazer unmarry before they stopped working again, so can't yet confirm if it's truly Tazer related or not. Such a weird issue to have. If anyone's experienced similar/a solution please let me know! Thinking of trying to re-flash my PCM with a copy of my tune from a couple of months back via HPTuners to see if it would fix anything, but worried that doing it with Tazer still stuck married will mess things up. 2016 R/T
 

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Hello everyone... I need some help as I am almost to the point of taking the car to the dealer. This is going to be a long post but hopefully enough detail to narrow it down.

Issue:

Some of my steering wheel controls aren't working. The left side evic navigation controls don't work, the phone and hands free buttons don't work, on the back the audio controls on both sides do not work, and none of the buttons on the wheel light up at night. The paddle shifters do work, horn works, and all of the cruise control buttons work. When this first started happening it was intermittent and really started with the audio controls. I would skip to the next track and it would delay so after 1 or 2 more pushes it would finally skip but would do 2 or 3 songs. I noticed the lights going out also. Then it was sometimes they worked and sometimes they didn't until eventually it spazzed out and the down button got stuck so the next time I started the car it did a cluster self test and never worked after that.

Background info:

I do not know if this is related or not but at one point I was trying to get the performance pages without having a tazer. In the long run I should have just forked out the money for the tazer but I was looking for a cheap solution. I found an app called SRTactivator in the Google play store for $4.99 so I bought it and gave it a shot. It did work. I got the performance pages on my evic and on the uconnect for $15. I was super excited. I needed to take the car in to get the cruise control recall done so I removed the performance pages. When I went to put them back on it was the middle of winter and like a dummy i had the car running when I tried to write the settings. It did load them again but I got a service shifter message and couldn't take the car out of park. Had to remove them again and turn the car on and off a few times, clear codes, and finally got back to normal. I don't remember at what point though the steering controls went out fully or if it is related to my hackish way to get the performance pages.

What i've done so far:

I thought for sure it was a clockspring issue so I pulled off my "multi function switch" and tested the clockspring with a multimeter using the passthrough tone. A couple pins seemed to not have pass through so I bought a new one for $350 (Thanks Dodge for not making the clockspring a separate piece.) . Swapped it out the other day and still have the same issues. Pulled everything back off again yesterday and took off dash panels to follow wires. I didn't see anything noticeable but there are a ton of wires to look at.


I actually bought a tazer, double bypass, and aux buttons but at this point its a paper weight since I can't navigate the evic to even use the tazer. :( .

Any suggestions or advice is more than welcome!
My charger is at the dealership, it’s going to cost $700 to fix this. It’s the reverse camera. Have the dealership test it. Cars been there for three days and I’ll get it back in two more day.
 
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