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Discussion Starter #1
2015 Charger SE with about 25K on the clock. Getting onto the freeway last week, driving it like I stole it. ABS and Traction Control lights go on. I plug in my code reader and it looks like I've got a bad right rear wheel speed sensor. So, I order both the left and right rear from Rock Auto. Fast forward to today. I get the right rear sensor replaced and I TRY to do the left one but I can NOT get the electrical connector apart (any suggestions about how to get this thing apart would be greatly appreciated!), so I figure I'll at least see how I did with the original presenting problem. Started it up... lights still on. Then I figure I probably need to reset them via the scan tool, so I do that. Drive down the road... on again. Clear them again. Down the road a piece... on again. Did a rescan and I'm getting a "U1412-00 Pending - Implausible Vehicle Speed Signal Received" and a "C003A-62 Stored - Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor-Signal Compare Failure".

Any idea what's going on and where I should turn next?

Thanks!!!
 

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possible harness problem , not likely...does your scan tool read individual wheel speeds as you roll...or...I just replaced a front wheel speed sensor on a Chevy with an AC Delco OEM sensor from Rock and it was defective...

if you unhook the wheel speed sensor and attach a DVM to it's terminals in the connector and spin the wheel or hub at 1 revolution/second you should see a reading of .450 volts AC.....if the Charger has passive sensors [two wire]...

if it has active sensors [a small current is supplied to the sensor] it can be tested for output voltage but I'd have to look that up..

a lack of output voltage from either kind usually means an improper air gap....should be @ .016 inch between the sensor tip and the tone wheel..

it seems we have active wheel sensors
https://www.moderntiredealer.com/article/311696/autofocus-making-sense-of-wheel-speed-sensors
 

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Thanks for the quick reply!

Jeez... I'm trying to get away with doing this laying on the ground underneath the car... no jacks, no hoist, tires/wheels on the vehicle.

Air gap? Holy crap! In all the YouTube videos I watched before taking this on, this is the first time I've heard of "gapping" the sensor!

(Is that a Duster in your icon?)

Thanks, George!
 

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I have had several sensors that were too long and made contact with the tone ring..shims can be used if the gap is wrong...the gap is correct when the volt reading is close...


wish I still had that Duster...got her in the low 12's..[still got Wifey tho]
 

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I would hope so but that did not prove to be true with my Chevy using an OEM A/C Delco sensor..

If your scan tool reads individual wheel speeds as the car is moving you can check the signal from that wheel to see if the sensor is working

if not you may be able to see if the sensor is working by checking the voltage by turning the wheel and seeing if it increases from 0.8 to 1.6v DC.. above article has info for testing on our LX cars..

odd that you can't get the left signal connector apart...perhaps corroded ? your code indicates a compare failure..meebee the problem is on the left side..? no signal from that side to compare with the right..
 

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You know... that's exactly what I'm starting to wonder, too. If the right sensor isn't about to go tits up. Wouldn't that answer the question about the "compare" issue as well as the "pending" error code? I think I'm gonna wrench on it some more tomorrow (raining like cats and dogs here today). Will hit that connector with some compressed air, and then juice it up with some WD-40 or other penetrating oil. Maybe if I do both sides I will get some satisfaction.
 

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Well... I raised the white flag and took it into the shop that I trust here, yesterday. Bad wheel bearing and a broken tone ring. They had to order one of the parts, so I had to take it back in this morning. I'm looking at an almost $900 repair. UGH!
 

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Taking that on is a little more than my comfort zone will allow. First, I hate jacking cars and monkeying around one that is up off the ground. I'm pretty well stocked for tools, but I wouldn't know the first thing about what I'd need to do the job. The guy at the shop yesterday (when he was giving me the bad news) said that they allow 3 hours for a bearing replacement, and that there was something about the way this thing came apart that led him to believe that it would take every bit of that. I don't know enough about that particular procedure to call BS, or not, on that claim.
 

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Oh... and now I've been informed that the OEM Mopar wheel speed sensor that I got from Rock Auto isn't working correctly. I told him to save the part because it's going back!
 
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