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That will work.

Having a setup on my FI 2005 Silverado since 2005 after a while I just didn't look at them much anymore.
Not now. In recent months I happen to notice my WOT AFR was touching high 12 flickering into 13:1 AFR. Way dangerously lean.
Before she was 11.8:1. Pulled and inspected the plugs that showed no fragments or particles or meltdown.
Changed the 15 year old PLX Wide-band/Boost setup to AEM, same thing, changed all of the original factory o2 sensors and she came partially back to us and we dialed it back in doing all of the normal driving logging and slow accelerations and WOT logging.

My point is don't get bored seeing the same thing. Glance at that AFR reading on your WOT episodes.
 
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That will work.

Having a setup on my FI 2005 Silverado since 2005 after a while I just didn't look at them much anymore.
Not now. In recent months I happen to notice my WOT AFR was touching high 12 flickering into 13:1 AFR. Way dangerously lean.
Before she was 11.8:1. Pulled and inspected the plugs that showed no fragments or particles or meltdown.
Changed the 15 year old PLX Wide-band/Boost setup to AEM, same thing, changed all of the original factory o2 sensors and she came partially back to us and we dialed it back in doing all of the normal driving logging and slow accelerations and WOT logging.

My point is don't get bored seeing the same thing. Glance at that AFR reading on your WOT episodes.
Good advice. It stays at 14.5 when I'm crusing, which is most of the time. When I put my foot in it, it reads in the 11s.

Edit: Now that I've been looking at it, it goes into the 10s, which I assume is better.
 

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Just an update, I had the brake lines installed, which took two visits to the shop, because the fittings between the hard lines and flexible lines were corroded to the point where they couldn’t be removed without damaging the hard lines. The tech figured out a way to get the front lines off, so managed to install the front braided lines, but the rears had to wait. Took it back a couple of weeks later, and the earlier application of heat and Blaster appeared to have helped, so he got the rears on without damage to the hard lines. The shop didn’t charge me for as many hours as they put into the job, and we were both glad for it to be over with.

The brakes have a firmer feel now, and I am enjoying the hell out of driving this car. It has plenty of grunt at the lower rpms, and hitting triple digit speeds is all too easy.

I’ve said elsewhere that I’m done modding this car, but that probably won’t turn out to be the case. A Tazer seems worth contemplating, as does a catch can. We‘ll see.
I appreciate all the info you guys have posted in this thread, and elsewhere.

Btw, how’s yours running, @Pro64?
 

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When you richen into the 10's is it after a few pulls and your IAT's are higher? The ECM looks at many parameters including coolant, oil, and intake air temps?
Richening is better news leaning out.

Enjoy
 

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When you richen into the 10's is it after a few pulls and your IAT's are higher? The ECM looks at many parameters including coolant, oil, and intake air temps?
Richening is better news leaning out.

Enjoy
I’ll have to check that out. I haven’t done any back to back pulls, so I’m not really sure. I drive it pretty easy.
 

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Also posted in LX Forums. It appears my engine is blown. o_O On Christmas Eve, of all times, under modest acceleration, there was a sudden loss of power, smoke and/or steam (lots of it) out the back, and steam from under the hood.

Needless to say, I'm bummed, as I didn't drive this car hard, and the shop assured me that the 5.7 could handle the boost.

Towed it to a local shop for now, and I guess it will have to go back to National Speed in Richmond, ~60 miles away, since they installed the Whipple.

Now I'm wondering if I should have the internals beefed up on the new engine, since I'm probably looking at a short block at least.

Merry Christmas.
 

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With forced induction we need to at least have a top rate log scanner.
I purchased HPTuners in 2005 in hopes of learning and being self reliant but its not a simple task, its more like a junior college course. I leaned lots but am no tuner for hire. Doing compares helps my understandings.

The real benefit for me was to be able to log scans and share with tuners like we get different opinions with different doctors. Glad I did because my 1st tuner was rouge. What we found in the scans were alarming.

I finally landed on a great Tuner, Dyno owner operator in Vancouver who remote tunes me here in N-GA.

I'm running 6 to 7psi on stock internals. In the heat of the summer 95+°F I get 6+psi, in winter I touch 7psi sometimes.

[email protected] miles ago and with 11.5k miles on her and approaching 140k miles on the engine. Now I'm looking at forged rotating assembly long blocks "prematurely" I hope. Let us know what you find.

Here is a scan played back @1/2 speed in 99°F & high humidity Summer heat. I ran a 13 flat-109mph 1/4-mile w/4.6sec 0-60mph with lots of wheel spin in 1st gear. Street tires and open 3.06.

One thing to recognize in a tuner is on these HEMI's trying to go ragged edge lean at the top of the RPM band has little to yield. An experienced HEMI tuner will know this. Another is seeing your AFR go a little rich after several runs or high ambient temps & IAT's to protect the engine. Some fail to calibrate for these.

 
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With forced induction we need to at least have a top rate log scanner.
I purchased HPTuners in 2005 in hopes of learning and being self reliant but its not a simple task, its more like a junior college course. I leaned lots but am no tuner for hire. Doing compares helps my understandings.

The real benefit for me was to be able to log scans and share with tuners like we get different opinions with different doctors. Glad I did because my 1st tuner was rouge. What we found in the scans were alarming.

I finally landed on a great Tuner, Dyno owner operator in Vancouver who remote tunes me here in N-GA.

I'm running 6 to 7psi on stock internals. In the heat of the summer 95+°F I get 6+psi, in winter I touch 7psi sometimes.

[email protected] miles ago and with 11.5k miles on her and approaching 140k miles on the engine. Now I'm looking at forged rotating assembly long blocks "prematurely" I hope. Let us know what you find.

Here is a scan played back @1/2 speed in 99°F & high humidity Summer heat. I ran a 13 flat-109mph 1/4-mile w/4.6sec 0-60mph with lots of wheel spin in 1st gear. Street tires and open 3.06.

One thing to recognize in a tuner is on these HEMI's trying to go ragged edge lean at the top of the RPM band has little to yield. An experienced HEMI tuner will know this. Another is seeing your AFR go a little rich after several runs or high ambient temps & IAT's to protect the engine. Some fail to calibrate for these.

There certainly are a lot of quarks to Hemi stuff that the average tuner will not know. There are a ton of shops out there that only know LS motors (Or worse, try to tune everything like it's an old school smallblock) and will quickly result in blown Hemi motors. People like to say these motors are fragile. In some ways yes. But in a lot of ways it's just lack of tuner knowledge.

The 5.7 will handle the boost, as long as it's tuned right and the fuel system is up to par. we build/tune them regularly. Hell I have a stock piston/rod 5.7 customer making 660+ whp going on 3+ years now. It's crazy how many boosted Hemi cars show up to my dyno for a tune with inadequate or failing fuel systems. There are also some things about the way the dodge PCM logic works that need to be properly accommodated for, with boost, to avoid serious detonation problems under specific conditions.
 

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Accurate words spoken there, all of them. My tuner has worked in the turboprop industry for decades and knows the tech and HEMI's, and not limited to the HEMI.
I have put tunes in front of him on a couple vehicles from so-thought reputable and praised tuners that were disturbing. One had my 53lb injectors setup as 150lb injectors and the VE tables were grossly rich, just to name a couple issues.

Just one of the reasons I have HPTuners. I can get opinions and flash the corrections, view and experience the results, and learn in the process.
 
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Turns out my car has a thrown rod. They’re going to tear it down tonight and tomorrow, and quote me on OEM replacement for the engine, and quote some upgrades including a larger block. National Speed has a new GM, and he at least sounds like he’s on the ball.

I see some serious money being spent ahead.
 

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If your in Southern Virginia you should call A2speed.
Thanks for the suggestion. I spoke with someone there when selecting the shop to install the SC. Distance was part of the decision, but I eventually chose NS. Now, I’ve got enough change happening that I don’t feel the need to change this horse as well.

I just tried a2speed.com, and there’s no page. Wonder what happened.

But I am going to look around to see what other shops charge for similar situations. Sure, depending on what NS quotes me, as in significant differences, I reserve the right to look elsewhere. Or, extreme case (for me), pay them the balance and have the whole thing packed up and brought to the farm where I’m sure I can find barn space of some sort for it.

Ah well. The car will get fixed, one way or another. Probably by others, and probably by NS.
 

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2017 Daytona 392. Ray Barton forged 392, tvs2300, aluminum ds, to much to list
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You can also call Luke at steve white dodge in hickory, nc. They do alot of mopar performance stuff. They handled my build in 2018. They use a2speed to tune.
 

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Thanks for all of the suggestions. NS has the car, and is doing the engine. They say it's not a warranty issue, so it's all on my nickel. Ouch.
Changing shops at this point would be too much for me to handle. Hopefully NS will get it right. We'll see.

But I'm thinking that when it's all said and done, I may consult with another shop to get their opinion, particularly with regard to the tune.
 

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How are things going with the car? It's been a few months and as a new 2014 R/T AWD owner, your adventure has a certain appeal :)
 

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How are things going with the car? It's been a few months and as a new 2014 R/T AWD owner, your adventure has a certain appeal :)
Thanks for asking. Sadly, the car is still in the shop; but I now expect it to be finished this month.

It's been an epic journey. Waiting on parts is the main reason for what is turning out to be a five month project.

The last, and hopefully final, delay was waiting on pistons from Diamond. Last week they finally were being shipped to BB. I'm guessing another week to finish the engine and ship it to NS, and probably a week or so after that to install everything at NS. Plus a much-needed detail, clay bar, and wax.
 

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NS has the engine, finally, and completion is scheduled for May 21. Ten days from now.

Of course there were some additional parts needed. New lifters, an upgraded oil pump, and a few other bits. But at least they are ready to put the car back together.

We’ll see. There have been so many delays with this project, I’m skeptical of any sort of schedule they give me.

I’ll believe it‘s finished when my butt is in the seat, I’ve taken it for a test drive, and NS is receding in the rear view mirror.
 

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How is it (HPTuners or? On Dyno?) , and who is tuning it.?
 

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Good luck, hope to hear good news soon. Ask them what the target AFR @WOT is.
You should consider HPTuners if not just to be able to scan it periodically. I have it and use it to remote tune. I'm not MOPAR tuner.
 
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