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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

New poster here, but I've been following the forums since I got the 2015 Charger RT. I followed it even when I had my 2010 Challenger since the information is so interchangeable. The community has given me lots to do with my Charger (and the Challenger), and I've really appreciated some of the discussions.

That said, I'm hoping you guys can help me. Sorry in advance for the novel. I'm out of warranty, lost my job at the end of April, paid $4k for my dog to get cancer surgery, roof has a leak, and life is overall unpleasant right now. The Charger's AC dying is the last thing I need, and God knows I don't have the money to get it fixed by a professional if there's any way at all possible to avoid that. I'm hopeful those of you that understand our HVAC systems can provide some help. So, here's the sitch.

Ever since I bought the car, the AC seemed a little wonky--it was totally normal for weeks at a time, then would suddenly ramp down/up the fan speed. I normally keep it maxed, so sometimes it just wasn't blowing as hard as normal and would suddenly be full speed. It went away quickly and was so intermittent and the dealer couldn't do anything. Two years or so ago, it wasn't blowing at all on fan speed 7. Took it to the dealer and on the way there it went right back to normal. They gave me the code, but once again couldn't do anything. (And given that it was years ago and hasn't been that dramatic since, I don't know the code. I think it was something along the lines of "door shut" or "stuck." Further wonkiness: I drive with AC on even in the winter on the driver side, but usually have heat on for my wife in the passenger side. Well, I noticed this past winter that the defroster wasn't really working on the driver side, but we only had two mornings where it was a problem. However my wife drove my car one day and let me know the heat wasn't coming on in the driver side. I was out of warranty, so I let that one go.

Now I'm in the situation where although the AC clearly shows it's on by the display, set to LO on both sides, and fan is on max, and I'm still getting ambient temperature air blown in. Even on the rear vents. It's blowing strong, but it definitely has no chill.

What I've done: first, I spent a couple of nights trying to figure out why I was such an idiot that I couldn't either of my old 134a gauges to connect to the port to see if I was low on freon. Found out they put new refrigerant in these cars, and it's much more expensive. Then I checked to see if the compressor seemed OK, but you know how tight the engine bays are. It looks like the clutch is spinning when the car is on, but I can't be one hundred percent sure due to low visibility. Belt tightness seems OK as well, but I'm not a mechanic. For the heck of it, I swapped the relay for the AC clutch with the horn to verify it was OK. Fuse also looked fine. I also left the battery disconnected for about ten minutes to hopefully clear up any computer gremlins.

Now I'm not really sure what to do--do I invest in a set of r-1234yf gauges to check pressure? Do I take it to the dealer? Is there any other moving part that could explain this, given the previous oddities this vehicle has had with HVAC? Again, lack of income is a huge factor.
 

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Welcome from AZ, pray it is not low on freon. If it is that means a leak and most likely the evaporator. That is a very expensive job. One that you may not want to tackle. Year ago I had to have it done to our 2011 Charger.
 

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Welcome from AZ, pray it is not low on freon. If it is that means a leak and most likely the evaporator. That is a very expensive job. One that you may not want to tackle. Year ago I had to have it done to our 2011 Charger.
Man, I hope it's not that. My worst fear would be the evaporator, but a genuine leak would be terrible too. Had to have that replaced in the old Challenger, but that was only due to an accident. Still, I remember it was not cheap.
 

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Without the proper A/C equipment it's difficult to diagnosis/isolate the loss of A/C. The leak could be the service ports or something else less expensive than the evaporator but replacement of any component (other than electronics) will require extraction of the Freon and recharge.
You can plug a OBD2/CAN scanner into the car's OBD2 port and see if any HVAC diagnostic codes have been logged. You will need to use a scanner that can read all codes (not just Pxxxx powertrain codes). The HVAC codes are all Bxxxx Body codes. If you're lucky the problem will be something like the evap temp sensor.
Check the A/C fuses and relays. The front fuse box has a A/C compressor clutch fuse and a power steering/AC clutch relay fuse. The link below does not show the relays but there is an AC clutch relay in the front fuse box (cavity #43 in a 2012 Charger). The rear fuse box has a HVAC Module/In Car Temperature Sensor fuse.
The driver side problems with the stuck door codes is probably the Blend-air door actuator. The actuator is located under the dash on the driver side. There's Bxxxx codes for the Blend-air door too.

Fuse Box Diagram Dodge Charger (2011-2019)
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Discussion Starter #5
Without the proper A/C equipment it's difficult to diagnosis/isolate the loss of A/C. The leak could be the service ports or something else less expensive than the evaporator but replacement of any component (other than electronics) will require extraction of the Freon and recharge.
You can plug a OBD2/CAN scanner into the car's OBD2 port and see if any HVAC diagnostic codes have been logged. You will need to use a scanner that can read all codes (not just Pxxxx powertrain codes). The HVAC codes are all Bxxxx Body codes. If you're lucky the problem will be something like the evap temp sensor.
Check the A/C fuses and relays. The front fuse box has a A/C compressor clutch fuse and a power steering/AC clutch relay fuse. The link below does not show the relays but there is an AC clutch relay in the front fuse box (cavity #43 in a 2012 Charger). The rear fuse box has a HVAC Module/In Car Temperature Sensor fuse.
The driver side problems with the stuck door codes is probably the Blend-air door actuator. The actuator is located under the dash on the driver side. There's Bxxxx codes for the Blend-air door too.

Fuse Box Diagram Dodge Charger (2011-2019)
.
Thank you for the response, sir. I'm praying it's something simple, and I'm going to check that rear fuse box. It's after midnight, so I may wait until tomorrow. (My neighbors already think I'm crazy.) I honestly didn't even know there WAS a rear fuse box, and after driving an LX/LC for over ten years I thought I knew them pretty well.... thank you! Will update when I know.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Without the proper A/C equipment it's difficult to diagnosis/isolate the loss of A/C. The leak could be the service ports or something else less expensive than the evaporator but replacement of any component (other than electronics) will require extraction of the Freon and recharge.
You can plug a OBD2/CAN scanner into the car's OBD2 port and see if any HVAC diagnostic codes have been logged. You will need to use a scanner that can read all codes (not just Pxxxx powertrain codes). The HVAC codes are all Bxxxx Body codes. If you're lucky the problem will be something like the evap temp sensor.
Check the A/C fuses and relays. The front fuse box has a A/C compressor clutch fuse and a power steering/AC clutch relay fuse. The link below does not show the relays but there is an AC clutch relay in the front fuse box (cavity #43 in a 2012 Charger). The rear fuse box has a HVAC Module/In Car Temperature Sensor fuse.
The driver side problems with the stuck door codes is probably the Blend-air door actuator. The actuator is located under the dash on the driver side. There's Bxxxx codes for the Blend-air door too.

Fuse Box Diagram Dodge Charger (2011-2019)
.
I replaced the fuses for the heck of it, since I had new spares. No change in anything. I'm shooting myself in the foot for not buying something better than the simple ECM scanner that I did--I didn't know it couldn't read all codes, but now I do. The more I learn, the more I wonder if it is one of those actuator doors. That would definitely help explain the weird heat issue I've had on the driver side in winter.
 

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The items I posted are the only easy (relatively cheap) parts to check and replace. If none of them are the problem then it's a pressure check on the high-side/low-side of the AC system to diagnose the problem. If there's a leak in the plumbing you may be able to detect it with a black light (ultraviolet flashlight). There's fluorescent dye installed in the refrigerant system.
.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The items I posted are the only easy (relatively cheap) parts to check and replace. If none of them are the problem then it's a pressure check on the high-side/low-side of the AC system to diagnose the problem. If there's a leak in the plumbing you may be able to detect it with a black light (ultraviolet flashlight). There's fluorescent dye installed in the refrigerant system.
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I'm taking her in for an oil change, as well as a recall notice related to EVAP. I want to say it was p046 or some such, but either way it's been causing an intermittent check engine light that I've been clearing. I know one of the techs at the dealer from high school and will ask him to read the B codes for me. I'll post back when I know more. In the meantime, I'm enjoying the AC in my wife's Cherokee.
 

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Just as an update, because everyone hates not having a conclusion. I took it to the dealer to a mechanic I'm friends with. No error codes of any sort, but based on the lack of heat in the winter he determined it was the driver side blend door actuator that had gone bad. A few hundred bucks later and that was replaced, but still blowing hot air. He did see what looked like a "residue" of some sort on one of the suction lines and suggested I probably had a leak. At the dealer it would be several hundred bucks more for a full cycle + recharge, plus whatever it would cost to find the leak and then replace or seal and that didn't sound like a guaranteed fix at all.

Given that I'm still trying to find a job, money is still tight. I figured, "screw it." I bought a 1234yf gauge off of Amazon, and a $45 can of refrigerant from the local auto parts place. (I have since found you can get the same 8oz can for $30 at NAPA.) The gauge definitely pegged it as low when I started, but after I put most of the 8oz can in the system it was completely filled. Ice cold air. That was a week ago, and it seems to be holding steady... so here's hoping. I just need it to make it through for another year until it's paid off.
 
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