Dodge Charger Forum banner
1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Need help! I have a 2013 Dodge Charger srt8 6.4l I just Replaced my lifters and cam and my engine is still ticking loud. It all started with a quiet ticking noise and it eventually kept getting louder so I pulled my engine apart and found 2 bad lifters, rollers had lots of play and were able to move up and down, I replaced my lifters and cam with a mds delete kit from AMS racing, engine is running great but it’s still ticking and it’s the loudest after my engine warms up, I’m not sure if this ticking noise was there before with the bad lifters ticking at that time but it sounds the same as it did before I replaced my lifters, I can’t seem to figure it out, I talked to a few mechanics and they were unable to diagnose the ticking noise, if anyone could help me figure this out it would be much appreciated. Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I checked for a exhaust leak and it’s not that, when I did my lifter kit I even replaced my exhaust manifold gaskets as well, I thought maybe it could be a exhaust leak but it’s coming from inside the engine itself
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,361 Posts
Sorry to hear your luck. I just did similar on my 2013 @135k miles before any lifter problems and it went well.
I changed lifters, springs, push rods, and seals. The Cam is OK.

Either way it looks like you are going back in, at least under one valve cover, the most another head pull.

What brand are the lifters? I hope they were not Engine Tech. If so conversation over, go back in with MOPAR.
Other than defective parts some install mistakes can lead to what your are experiencing.

Things I ask are.
Hopefully you followed the service manual sequences and torque specs.
Were the lifters submerged in oil before the install?
Before start up did you dump the oil and filter, adding a fresh filter pre-filled with fresh oil?
And on startup pulled the fuel pump fuse and let her do a couple spin cycles?
Run the engine long enough to get warm and top off coolant, shut down and change the oil and filter again?

When installing the push rods especially the intake's its easy to miss the rocker arm cup and bend a push rod on startup.
Its also easy to bend or deform the rocker arm tube. One has to have a feel for when to stop tightening one of the bolts because one of the others need to be tightened, its all according to which valve is at which cam lobe position. Do it wrong and bend the tube.

A best case scenario is you pull a cover finding a really sloppy push rod fit due to being bent and replace it. Or a cracked spring. Or a loose rocker arm bolt.
Maybe pull the rocker arm and check it for straightness, roll it on a glass or Corian counter top.

Good Luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sorry to hear your luck. I just did similar on my 2013 @135k miles before any lifter problems and it went well.
I changed lifters, springs, push rods, and seals. The Cam is OK.

Either way it looks like you are going back in, at least under one valve cover, the most another head pull.

What brand are the lifters? I hope they were not Engine Tech. If so conversation over, go back in with MOPAR.
Other than defective parts some install mistakes can lead to what your are experiencing.

Things I ask are.
Hopefully you followed the service manual sequences and torque specs.
Were the lifters submerged in oil before the install?
Before start up did you dump the oil and filter, adding a fresh filter pre-filled with fresh oil?
And on startup pulled the fuel pump fuse and let her do a couple spin cycles?
Run the engine long enough to get warm and top off coolant, shut down and change the oil and filter again?

When installing the push rods especially the intake's its easy to miss the rocker arm cup and bend a push rod on startup.
Its also easy to bend or deform the rocker arm tube. One has to have a feel for when to stop tightening one of the bolts because one of the others need to be tightened, its all according to which valve is at which cam lobe position. Do it wrong and bend the tube.

A best case scenario is you pull a cover finding a really sloppy push rod fit due to being bent and replace it. Or a cracked spring. Or a loose rocker arm bolt.
Maybe pull the rocker arm and check it for straightness, roll it on a glass or Corian counter top.

Good Luck
Thanks! Very helpful info! I believe the lifters are engine tech, also I torqued everything down to spec and did everything by the book, made sure the rods were in the cup before I torqued down the rocker arm tube and followed the start up procedures. Maybe defective lifters? I will pull my valve covers and check for any possible issues
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,361 Posts
There are lots of reports of those lifters being pretty much junk. I cannot believe Rockauto still sells them. If you go MOPAR try Steve White Auto.
 
  • Like
Reactions: HemiLonestar

·
Registered
Joined
·
421 Posts
Thanks! Very helpful info! I believe the lifters are engine tech, also I torqued everything down to spec and did everything by the book, made sure the rods were in the cup before I torqued down the rocker arm tube and followed the start up procedures. Maybe defective lifters? I will pull my valve covers and check for any possible issues
Engine Tech lifters suck BALLS. I used them when I replaced mine back to stock. One morning car went into MDS mode and when it came back out it made a racket and ran like shit. Lifter failed -over pumped and bent a pushrod. Enginetech would not do anything.

They were also noisy as well.


Second, What kind of lifters and cam? Are they both MDS or Non MDS? you CAN NOT mix the two regardless what some may say.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,424 Posts
How's the pressure? My buddy had an issue like this, and his oil pickup tube had a tiny crack in it, sucking air instead of oil at times.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Engine Tech lifters suck BALLS. I used them when I replaced mine back to stock. One morning car went into MDS mode and when it came back out it made a racket and ran like shit. Lifter failed -over pumped and bent a pushrod. Enginetech would not do anything.

They were also noisy as well.


Second, What kind of lifters and cam? Are they both MDS or Non MDS? you CAN NOT mix the two regardless what some may say.
Both are non MDS. Also here is a link of the kit I installed! Complete MDS Delete Conversion Kit for 2011+ Dodge Jeep SRT 6.4L 392 Hemi Engines
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I will look into just replacing the lifters again with a good quality lifters, it sucks to have to go back in again but at least I won’t be removing the cam shaft and timing chain this time
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
421 Posts
You may just have to deal with the ticking.

Mine still ticks, but does not tap. It drives me absolutely mad as well specially when I pull into the garage. I've been doing oil samples looking for iron to go up to see if they are doing same thing.


Perosnally will NOT be replacing lifters agin on this thing. I'll drop a 392 from junkyard before that into it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Need help! I have a 2013 Dodge Charger srt8 6.4l I just Replaced my lifters and cam and my engine is still ticking loud. It all started with a quiet ticking noise and it eventually kept getting louder so I pulled my engine apart and found 2 bad lifters, rollers had lots of play and were able to move up and down, I replaced my lifters and cam with a mds delete kit from AMS racing, engine is running great but it’s still ticking and it’s the loudest after my engine warms up, I’m not sure if this ticking noise was there before with the bad lifters ticking at that time but it sounds the same as it did before I replaced my lifters, I can’t seem to figure it out, I talked to a few mechanics and they were unable to diagnose the ticking noise, if anyone could help me figure this out it would be much appreciated. Thanks
Same here but mine is 2011 Challenger 6.4L SRT8....new Johnson lifters, Comp Cam XD-A adjustable pushrods (sounds terrible, but are awesome, reusable and better than standard pushrods - from MMX), stock cam, I made change before cam was damaged. I have a sewing machine tick now in the same spot the previous lifter tick was before I upgraded. My driver side head flows oil like crazy and the passenger is same as yours, oil shows up but it is slow and terrible. Great oil pressure according to dash digital gauge. No tick at start up for a few minutes then the sewing machine starts up. Thinking about trying to mityvac the galley to see if i can suck out any debris or even running pipe cleaner from rocker arm galley down to see if that clears anything. Any suggestions, warnings or general advice?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,361 Posts
Mercy. I guess I would check the rocker arm bolts again for proper torque. Sometimes they will fool you because of lifter and cam position. Did you inspect the valve springs for cracks?

Strange thing is the noise is only after it warms. To me that sounds like dropping oil pressure. Odd. Call Johnson.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
I found this on another forum and my oil flow issue has been resolved, sewing machine tick is gone:

On Moparts Forum, b g racer posted:
"Hemis are a pain" (to prime) ", loosen the bolts that hold the rocker shafts, one on each corner of the intake and exhaust shafts (4 bolts) to eliminate any air block..."

After loosening the 4 rocker arm assembly bolts at the ends of the intake and exhaust shafts and starting the engine, oil was gushing from everywhere and the tick stopped. I couldn't believe it. I even retorqued the bolts 3 ft lbs under spec because oil flow almost disappeared after I retorqued the 4 bolts to spec.

I missed this part but I will go back in if a tick returns:
"...If your using head studs take out the one second from the back that holds the stands down, sometimes they restrict the oil passages, use an undercut bolt or stud or ream out the hole."

Hopefully, this will work for everyone else like it has for me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Wow, after reading this, Glad I did. My Charger is just starting the ticking slightly a bit and know before it was, that this issue would arise. I was going to go with the MDS delete and was going to go about getting the parts ahead of time. Glad I saw that the after-market lifters are garbage. I will now be going with MOPAR parts only and forget the MDS delete. Without the MDS delete I know in 80k or so more miles I would need to do it again. But by then I am sure I will trade up to a newer model.
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top