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Installed Hornblasters Shocker XL 6 horn upgrade. 2 more horns for extra ear rape. Have not tested them yet, but it should be fun for everyone not near my car, LOL.

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Also figured out why my fog light halo stopped working. Looks like the driver ended its own life.
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Installed the 6.4 Intake. Yet to wire in the MSD window switch for SRV function. Initial tests with no tuning show increased bottom and mid range power. Have not tried a launch yet as my tires already are bald-ish. (waiting to get every ounce of life outta them before putting new tires on)
Wow @CE9311 - you've been busy!

And how long did that new Gen console swap take you?
Any discrepancies between temp readings vs the 8.4 info SRT pages? (I remember you mentioning something about the intake temp not registering properly earlier).
 

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Went to put on my BBK 85mm throttle body and discovered an awesome electrical tape job on the intake temperature sensor wiring so, had to fix that...
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after that I got the throttle body on, synced the pedal and fired her up!
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final touch, threw on some vinyl stickers under the hood.. still debating if that’s too ricer or not, thoughts?

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Cleaned her up, put the spare rear wheels on with Atturo AZ850's.

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Wow @CE9311 - you've been busy!

And how long did that new Gen console swap take you?
Any discrepancies between temp readings vs the 8.4 info SRT pages? (I remember you mentioning something about the intake temp not registering properly earlier).
Just now saw this opps.

The new cluster read basically what the 8.4 shows. Which overall only the oil temps are effected. Basically compared to old cluster it reads on avg 10 degrees higher.

On cluster there is no Intake Temp, or G forces, or Oil life reset. Otherwise I am quite pleased at teh worth while mod.




Today I replaced Both motor Mounts, Both Driveshaft Couplers, and installed a second hand Flowmast FX system.

Car is basically ready for another road trip once I get the new tires and alignment done. Still burning off all the tread I paid for on the old ones before swapping.
 

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2017 Charger R/T Blacktop
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Today it got the oil and filter changed and emptied the catch can. 7 qts of 5W-20 Mobil1 full synthetic and a Wix 57899xp filter
 

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Had car idling in driveway as I got my stuff together to go wash it and bring back for finishing detail. Right as I was dead bolting the door I heard it dip in idle, then stumble, and then die.

Fuel pump died 30 seconds before I would have been driving it on road.
 

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Fuel pump died 30 seconds before I would have been driving it on road.
Saved yourself a lot of hassle!

I think these cars have two fuel pumps - no?
Wonder if both failed...looks to be around a 2-4 hour job to go about replacing them..

Edit - came across this post from @djalbin in 2017:

The way the fuel pumps work is as follows, fuel enters the reservoir of the main fuel pump module (driver side). The main fuel pump module pumps the fuel through the filter to the auxiliary fuel pump module (passenger side) through a supply line inside the fuel tank. The fuel pressure regulator inside the auxiliary fuel pump module regulates the pressure at 58 psi and sends fuel to the engine.

All unused fuel that is not sent to the engine is fed through a venturi at the bottom of the auxiliary fuel pump module. This creates a low pressure siphoning effect and draws fuel from the passenger side of the tank and transfers it to the drivers side tank via siphon hose inside the tank. While the vehicle is running the fuel in the passenger side of tank is continuously transferred to the drivers side. Fuel will continue to fill the drivers side tank till it reaches the bridge section and then starts to spill over to the passenger side.

Either fuel pump can be replaced without replacing the fuel tank ... they just need to follow the Service Guide procedures.

Removal:
The Main Fuel Pump Module must be removed for Auxiliary Fuel Pump Module removal
Installation:
The Auxiliary Fuel Pump Module must be installed before the Main Fuel Pump Module.
Whenever a fuel pump module is serviced, the rubber O-ring seal must be replaced.

The fuel tank check valve and control valve are used to reduce emissions due to the venting of vapor expansion within the fuel tank.
The fuel tank check valve and control valve are non-serviceable components of the fuel tank assembly. The fuel tank assembly has to be replaced if these valves are not functioning properly.
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The new one will come with a new pig tail and instructions for using it. If you ignore it and plug it in as is you will be going back in. Unless you get old stock. The new wriring is to prevent the head and browning and cracking of the pump connecting area.
 

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Saved yourself a lot of hassle!

I think these cars have two fuel pumps - no?
Wonder if both failed...looks to be around a 2-4 hour job to go about replacing them..

Edit - came across this post from @djalbin in 2017:
One fuel pump, two senders of sorts. The passenger side holds the psi regulator and uses the returned fuel with a venturi effect to siphon fuel out of the pass saddle tank into the driver side saddle tank. Neat design.

Overall pretty easy to do besides the clip on the hose. I kinda broke it but seems to be holding.

New pump did not come with any wiring to be swapped.
 
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