Did you change anything else? Exhaust? Intake? Did you try getting a Dyno to see what is happening.

Cams just by themselves I feel won't make big power. Gotta get other items to work in conjunction with them.

Looking at thier website and dyno page it shows a Ram hemi power curve. And doesn't look like that big of a cam. I may be wrong. Perhaps you were expecting too much.

 

Did you change anything else? Exhaust? Intake? Did you try getting a Dyno to see what is happening.

Cams just by themselves I feel won't make big power. Gotta get other items to work in conjunction with them.

Looking at thier website and dyno page it shows a Ram hemi power curve. And doesn't look like that big of a cam. I may be wrong. Perhaps you were expecting too much.

I mean i have long tubes that was put on the same time

 

G

 

I did a 6.4 cam swap in my 5.7 with springs ,pushrods, valve seals. I have bbk long tubes/x pipe, high flow cats and magnaflows, cai, and tune. It made 417 at 6850 rpms on the dyno. It feels close to the same in the lower rpms but when it's turning rpms above 3500, you can really feel the differance. I know you cam profile is a bit different but I just thought id share this so you can compare. my cam is a non mds 6.4 vvt cam out of a 2016 challenger.

 

Wheel, Crank?

DynoJet or Mustang?

 

TSP copied the Specs on there cams from Inertia the stage 2 is bascily the SRT max so in the 5.7 its on the big side.

 

Not gettin much out a cam. Cams only deliver with other mods that work well together. Can't just add a cam and expect big hp. Add 90mm throttle body, non mds lifters, long tubes, injectors, fuel rails, boost pump, 2800 stall, ported heads, and while your at it throw in a 200 shot of nos.

 

I had a customer with just a Spartan cam, longtubes, and strait pipe and it was 400hp 400tq it was a bit more than I was expecting but ran really good, I think the cam you have is to big, you can make it work but it is going to take some money and time.

 

Cams are power band or rpm range specific. Some grinds will open cans-o-worms like requiring a higher stall converter to take advantage.
FI is the way to go if you can unless you want to experience the lope at idle.

 

BS. Stock factory rating is 375 @flywheeL Minus 15% driveline to tires is 318-320, if it dyno'd 417hp its about 475 @flywheeL
A dyno-jet is a non load bearing unit, the mustang bendpak Dynos are load bearing.
The difference between the two is 13-14% with the dyno-jet showing larger numbers.
Both are useful tools. But we all know why dyno-jets are more popular.
The best use of any dyno is before and after mods comparisons.

 

If you read it all sir I stated it was at the crank which denotes a 42 hp increase over stock, thats not at all unreasonable for a cam headers exhaust and a good tune. In addition the dyno jet was all I had available. So your sarcasm and lofty thoughts of your intellect have been a bit debunked, all because of lack of reading. Hows that for a smart come back to you calling me a liar? It is what it is sir, only trying to report my experience with my situation so information can be shared. I also am no where near delusional enough to think a cammed up 5.7 could create as much power as a 6.4.... or id be as rich as Lee Iacocca for discovering the world’s greatest cam swap. As a disclaimer for averting any plagiarism complaints, i used a wheel to crank hp conversion feature at this website MK5 Cortina Estate
Where i entered the 336 wheel hp to measure the estimated gain of all I had added... answer was 417 NO BS!!

 

[/QUOTE]
Truly irritating to be called a liar when your sharing information for someone’s benefit. I will post nothing further for avoidance of reprisal from mopar gods.

 

I could have been less crass I guess. Sorry.

 

would any of you know if the stage too cam from Chrysler is good and would a stage three Texas cam be any good

 

My preference would be the new MMX NA cam for the 5.7L.

5.7L HEMI VVT Performance Camshaft Kit - 5.7-NA-LOPE - by MMX

5.7L HEMI VVT Performance Camshaft Kit - 5.7-NA-LOPE - by MMX

www.modernmusclextreme.com

Stage two from Dodge is the comp cam 270. Lose torque down low but gains above 4000 rpms. Not sure about Texas cam

 

My preference would be the new MMX NA cam for the 5.7L.

5.7L HEMI VVT Performance Camshaft Kit - 5.7-NA-LOPE - by MMX

5.7L HEMI VVT Performance Camshaft Kit - 5.7-NA-LOPE - by MMX

www.modernmusclextreme.com

Stage two from Dodge is the comp cam 270. Lose torque down low but gains above 4000 rpms. Not sure about Texas cam

I’m not sure that seems like a lot of money man I know you have to spend a little but i can’t remember how much it was but it’s either more or just as much as the mopar stage 2

 

The stage 2 package costs more and does not include the lifters. Those will cost you close to $250. Here is the stage 2 package at the least expensive site I could find: You need to change out the MDS lifters when getting a nice cam like the MMX or comp cam 270.

But you do not get the scat pack 2 badges with the MMX so that must be worth at least $500

Charger MOPAR Performance Parts

<CENTER><a><img src="https://i1200.photobucket.com/albums/bb321/bmcextremecustoms3/Dodge%20Charger%202015-2018%20Hellcat%20Hood_zpsel6zzhsf.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo Dodge Charger 2015-2018 Hellcat Hood_zpsel6zzhsf.jpg"style="max-width:100%;height:auto;"</img></a></CENTER>

www.bmcextremecustoms.net

 

I knew I’d have to get lifters I heard of people putting hellcat lifters in there and a lot of people use the Texas stage three I don’t know much about performance parts like this mainly because of how unpredictable they can be but factory power output and price I do know

 

First thing I would do is find a good Hemi performance shop close to you and discuss your goals. There are a lot of custom cams out their for the 5.7L now. MMX, Jay Greene, OST dyno, HHP.......but I would find a cam that will give you gains through out the power band not just up top above 4000 rpms. Most of the aggressive cams I have seen, you will lose torque down low, like said before. Having to get a higher torque converter to overcome the torque loss down low is an added expense.

 

Yea that’s a good point and should I run the hellcat lifters one of the shops said they used them but if they are going to do the same thing that the ones in the 5.7 is doing then I need to get a good set of lifters

 

HellCat lifters are only HellCat lifters when in a HellCat engine. Otherwise they are the same lifters as NON-MDS lifters.

 

So what should I do for lifters what is mds

 

You need to replace the 4 MDS lifters. It is the Multi displacement system that allows for cylinder deactivation to save fuel. You notice it when easing up on the throttle and the exhaust note changes. ECO will display in the evic.

You can just replace the 4 or replace all 8. The cost is only a couple of hundred more for all 8 and IMO it is a good insurance against lifter failure that can wipe out a cam. Google "Hemi Lifter Failure" to get up to speed.

Most shops that I know of are using the Hellcat lifters for all cam installs, 5.7 and 6.4. I am not even sure if there is a different part number now because Dodge has changed them a few times.

 

I purchased this full set of lifters 9/4/2020, a MDS set. It labels their install positions. From Steve White Motors.

 

Yes, don't mix MDS & non-MDS, MDS cam lobes have specific profile. Mainly demonstrating the the availability as the mfg date is on the box and recommend Steve White Motors for OE parts.

I got to demo drive a cammed 5.7L with 3200 stall and mercy. Kind of radical and the idle lope gives it away. Shifts at 64k too. Lots of valve train upgrades and the 6.4 short runner valve intake. Headers too.

 

So wait if I do get the Texas stage three I know I’m going to need a new torque convert and I was going to put lifters in there too but what all would I need I thought that’s all I needed

 

The Texas Speed Cam has the following specs on the website: 223/232 .582/.582 113+3
My guess would be PSI springs, pushrods and change the MDS lifters (4) to non-MDS lifters at a minimum.

Based on their before and after dyno's, it does not appear that the cam loses torque down low so maybe no torque converter needed. Best to call them up and talk to a tech to get the correct info. We can only guess on the forum.

 

That’s true alright thanks man

 

Hey, Im new to the forum. I working on my wife's 2011 dodge charger pursuit. About two years after her driving it we noticed a ticking sound and the misfiring engine code, the lifter failed and took out the cam. If I had to go into the engine I wasn't going stock. I bought the following:
-Stage 3 cam kit from AMS (Stage 3 Performance MDS Delete Kit for 2009-2020 Chrylser 300 Dodge Charger Challenger 5.7L Hemi)
-Cold air intake (Mopar Performance 77070044AD Mopar Performance Cold Air Intake Kits | Summit Racing),
-BBK shorty headers
-New Spark plugs (gaped)
-New ignition coils
-New water pump
-90mm throttle body, and HP tuner set up.

Install went well with no major issues. I found a base tune online from HP Tuners and loaded it. Disabled the MDS. Before I started it I held the throttle pedal to the floor to allow oil to circulate thru the engine. Then attempted to start, it will start and then die, and now I have the following engine codes:

P0108 - Manifold Absolute pressure / Baro sensor high (permanent) ........Maybe the MAP sensor
P0118- Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 1 circuit High.......Probably due to minimal water in the engine
P0123- Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor A circuit high
P0222- Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch B circuit low
P0300- Random Misfire Detected
P0301- Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
P3401- Cylinder 1 Deactivation / Intake valve ctrl circ/open
P3425- Cylinder 4 Deactivation / Intake valve ctrl circ/open
U0100- Lost Communication with ECM/PCM A
U110B- (permanent)

None of these codes were present before I started. The battery was disconnected prior to starting. (I replaced the battery) I have check all the wiring and it all seams good. Im a bit confused maybe someone can assist... I hope so.

Thank you
Steve

 

Hey, Im new to the forum. I working on my wife's 2011 dodge charger pursuit. About two years after her driving it we noticed a ticking sound and the misfiring engine code, the lifter failed and took out the cam. If I had to go into the engine I wasn't going stock. I bought the following:
-Stage 3 cam kit from AMS (Stage 3 Performance MDS Delete Kit for 2009-2020 Chrylser 300 Dodge Charger Challenger 5.7L Hemi)
-Cold air intake (Mopar Performance 77070044AD Mopar Performance Cold Air Intake Kits | Summit Racing),
-BBK shorty headers
-New Spark plugs (gaped)
-New ignition coils
-New water pump
-90mm throttle body, and HP tuner set up.

Install went well with no major issues. I found a base tune online from HP Tuners and loaded it. Disabled the MDS. Before I started it I held the throttle pedal to the floor to allow oil to circulate thru the engine. Then attempted to start, it will start and then die, and now I have the following engine codes:

P0108 - Manifold Absolute pressure / Baro sensor high (permanent) ........Maybe the MAP sensor
P0118- Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor 1 circuit High.......Probably due to minimal water in the engine
P0123- Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor A circuit high
P0222- Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch B circuit low
P0300- Random Misfire Detected
P0301- Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
P3401- Cylinder 1 Deactivation / Intake valve ctrl circ/open
P3425- Cylinder 4 Deactivation / Intake valve ctrl circ/open
U0100- Lost Communication with ECM/PCM A
U110B- (permanent)

None of these codes were present before I started. The battery was disconnected prior to starting. (I replaced the battery) I have check all the wiring and it all seams good. Im a bit confused maybe someone can assist... I hope so.

Thank you
Steve

Well, you wasted money on the throttlebody.

You found a base tune? As in a base tune for the cam you have or what?

Within the tune was MDS deactivated for sure?

Clear the codes and retry. double check connections.

 

Do you know where I can get an tune emailed?

 

It costs money. But Hemifever is guy I used but they may only use Diablo. Just search up Charger Hemi tuners and start reaching out.

 

Well I'm in it thus far.... got to get it up and going ...

Thank you

 

I wonder how much of the lore about cams yielding 100 hp over stock comes from the old factory camshafts. I pulled the factory cam out of a '77 motorhome 440 and it might as well have been round.

 

Will a 5.7 hemi handle a stage 4 cam from texas speed