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P1004/P2078 codes

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4K views 5 replies 4 participants last post by  PaulAmSam  
#1 ·
Hello, I'm not sure if I'm posting this in the right spot or not I am a newbie here as well as posting, blogging and threads. Please tell me if I have posted in the wrong area as well as send it to the proper one


Have to get emissions done but, had engine lift on. Performed scan and I got a P1004 code(short runner valve) Cleared the codes and light went out but came back on...that was a Friday. On Sunday started my car and light was off went to a buddy's and called to make appointment to do Etest but, when I left the engine light was back on...very confused so after research there were three things I come up with-1-Seafoam-2-actuator/sensor on the front of the short runner side-3-change the whole manifold). Tried cheapest solution which was to us Seafoam to try and clean carbon build up cause l thought the valves were getting stuck. Also took actuator off(4 bolts) and cleaned the male end and sprayed some Seafoam inside the female end. This was all done the following Saturday morning...cleared codes and engine light was gone. I was told there has to be a certain amount of highway and street klm for everything to be ready to be checked and see if light comes back on. A different buddy said if the light is out go get Etest done. Went to get it done and light was still out. Talked to the guy at Etest place and said I was going to take a spin down the expressway and then come back, when I hopped back in my car and started it the engine light came on. The next day had some running around to do but, lol never looked to see if light was on or off. Later on that night I drove to a buddy's to see if he could help me out financially and looked at light and realized the engine light was out again. Went to friends and figured when I left and started my car the light would be on but it was still out...more confused!!! Woke up Monday and light was still out so went to do Etest. When I got there I had to wait about 15-20 min then when I started my car the light was back on...now very confused and frustrated!!! Went back to buddy's to scan and now I'm getting the P1004 code but it says description not available and P2078 code(intake manifold turning valve position sensor or switch circuit high). Is the turning position sensor what I refer to earlier as the actuator/sensor and is that why I'm getting the P2078 code?


Also I have a leak in my flex pipe on the exhaust with the catylitic converter connected to it...wold this have anything to do with the codes?


Thank You!
 
#6 ·
I know what you mean this is how i got it to come off...
This isn't something I would say is a good idea but at the time I was at a standstill for my 2006 3.5L charger which as soon as i drove it away from the previous owner who lived in a secured community (meaning i couldn't get to him) the check engine light came on so I couldn't get tags to use it for my daily commute and I spent all my disposable cash to get it. At any rate I was fairly capable with car issues and found the problem courses fairly easy which was the afore mentioned short runner servo which it turned out that it wasn't the servo but the plenum itself and what the servo controll was that big gulp of air the engine needs when you stomp on the grass pedal. Turns out that internal air fuel "butterfly" is set on rubber bushings that get degraded as it is rubber breaks downs when its exposed to any petroleum based products causing friction that wont allow the servo to keep up with the constant adjustment needs and i found not one fix for this but to buy the resigned plenum at a cost of $2000! And i was already paying insurance and every possible Youtube fix only led me on a meey go round that ended with the same answer you have to buy the bew plenum.
As i said i tried find a way to lube it as silicone grease was the only thing that wouldn't degrade the rubber further but it turns out that the silicone becomes extremely sticky im a very, very short time go figure so i decided on a course of action i used carb cleaner to remove everything i had applied previously and then after a good amount of time to be sure that the carb cleaner was completely evaporated I used a graphite dry lube spray that go on like a spray paint that hasn't any real dry time and I couldn't get it off when i tested it on other surfaces . Well I didn't think it would help really so I never cleared the codes or the check engine but after three days the light came off and it passed smog and it didn't come back if only briefly untill the other day but its been over three years. Any as far as i know I'm the only one that's had even a temporary fix for that particular issue.