[ChrisM]

normally if it starts and dies must be fuel instead of spark since no spark means no start so id check fuel pressure first then pump since pump supplies fuel after start since system has pressure for starting and fuel pressure must die out so maybe fuel pump or power to it so it doesnt keep running

I have had the belt changed and also I have put in new spark plugs and I also put in new Coral packs I don't have any check engine light on
But I do have a code of p2068 and when I looked up that that code
It said my fuel level sensors must be bad would that cause the car to stall out when it starts???

 

[ChrisM]

P2068 - FUEL LEVEL SENSOR 2 CIRCUIT HIGH
Set Condition:
The fuel level sensor signal voltage at the PCM goes above 4.9 volts for more than 90 seconds.

There's two fuel pumps in the fuel tank. They're both accessible under the rear seat. Fuel pump #2 is on the passenger side. Fuel level sensor #2 is in this fuel pump (both pumps have a fuel level sensor). This fuel pump has the fuel pressure regulator and supplies fuel to the engine.
The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) controls the operation of the fuel system by providing battery voltage to the fuel pumps through the fuel pump relay Later model Chargers have the fuel pump relay in the front fuse box but earlier model Chargers have the fuel pump relay in the rear fuse box. Yours being a 2006 may have the fuel pump relay in the rear fuse box.

A bad fuel level sensor normally affects the fuel gauge and not fuel delivery to the engine ... but obviously your fuel pump is not continuing to deliver fuel after startup. So I think the onboard diagnostics are logging P2068 but there's additional issues with the fuel pump (which also contains the fuel pressure regulator). As 'baabootoo' said, check the fuel pressure ( should be 58 psi ± 5 psi). Check the wiring harness/connectors and the fuel pump relay.
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Okay I would do that but is that the reason why the car will not stay idling the car cranks up and starts then the RPMs are very low then it shuts off do you think that's why my car will not start because of the level sensors because I have cleaned out the throttle body in a car came on and also idle longer than ever so I was believing I may just need a new throttle body?

 

[ChrisM]

It could be the throttle body but normally additional DTC (diagnostic trouble codes) are logged when the TB is failing. Are any new codes being logged?
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No the only colors I have is just the fuel level sensor codes
And my fuel gauge works perfectly fine I don't know if it's my fuel pump that's what stopping the car to idle or I don't know if it might throttle body I don't have any lights or code for it
The car fires up the moment you turn the car on so I know my camshaft position sensor is good the car just has a idling problem it doesn't want to idle for too long then it cuts off
I'm just trying to find the problem before I start spending money I'm hoping it's nothing to do with my fuel pump system

 

[ChrisM]

In engine startup mode the PCM receives the camshaft position sensor and crankshaft position sensor signals, it energizes the Auto Shutdown (ASD) relay and fuel pump relay. The ASD and fuel pump relays supply battery voltage to the fuel pump, fuel injectors, ignition coil, (EGR solenoid and PCV heater if equipped) and heated oxygen sensors. When the engine idles within ±64 RPM of its target RPM, the PCM compares the current MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor value with the value received during the Ignition Switch On (zero RPM) mode. After startup the PCM adjusts ignition timing and engine idle speed. Engine idle speed is adjusted through the idle air control motor; which is part of the throttle body. The PCM adjusts injector pulse width and controls injector synchronization by turning the individual ground paths to the injectors On and Off. The PCM adjusts the air/fuel ratio according to the oxygen content in the exhaust gas (measured by the upstream oxygen sensor).

It appears all the sensors are sending the correct signals to the PCM for startup. But then after it goes into idle it stops running. There is an idle mode for the PCM but between startup and idle is engine warmup mode. The inputs received by the PCM in warmup mode include the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP), Crankshaft position (engine speed), Engine coolant temperature, Inlet/Intake air temperature (IAT), Camshaft position sensor, Knock sensor, Throttle position, A/C switch status, Battery voltage, O2 sensors.

During startup and warmup modes the PCM runs in Open Loop where the PCM receives input signals and responds according to preset PCM programming.
When the engine is at operating temperature, or the car is moving, the PCM runs in idle or cruising mode. During idle and cruising modes the PCM runs in Closed Loop where it receives input signals plus input from the upstream and downstream oxygen sensors. The upstream oxygen sensor input tells the PCM if the calculated injector pulse width results in the ideal air-fuel ratio of 14.7 The PCM will adjust the injector pulse width accordingly to maintain a AFR of 14.7 (referred to as fuel trim).

Without any codes, other than P2068, it's a process of elimination to determine the problem. It could be the fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump is not keeping up, the ASD relay or fuel pump relay is shutting off, etc...
Check the condition of the wiring harness/connectors, check if the ASD and fuel pump relays are overheating, check the fuel pressure (you need to install a fuel pressure gauge) ...
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Okay I have a red everything thank you so first off I'm going to try to change the relay if not then I might need just new fuel pumps for both side because I have the p2068 code twice for both of my pumps

 

[ChrisM]

Okay so do you think I need to replace both of my fuel pump or just try the relay to see if the relay is bad

 

[ChrisM]

The relays are cheaper. They may, or may not, fix the problem.
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Ok I will
Try the relay first if that do not worry do you think I should just go ahead and change both of my fuel pumps?

 

[ChrisM]

A knowledgeable Service Tech can perform diagnostics to see if the fuel pumps are shutting Off after startup (electrical, fuel pressure, etc...). But parts swapping without any diagnostics can get expensive and may not fix the problem. If the problem is the fuel pump I would recommend replacing both; if they're factory original they're 14 years old. The fuel pumps are $156 to $210 each and the O-rings seals, ring locks are $20 to $25 each ... so I hesitate to say replace the fuel pumps without knowing for sure they're the problem.
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I have been watching a lot of YouTube videos and asking around so I mostly believe that you are right it could be my fuel pumps

 

[ChrisM]

Bro I have changed my fuel pumps both of them and I'm still having the same problem I do not know what it could be anymore

 

[ChrisM]

Have you looked to see if the diagnostics codes have changed? If you're not getting any additional/new diagnostic codes I would check the wiring harness/connectors for any corrosion, frayed/cracked wring/connectors, loose ground wire/connections, etc...
There could be other things to check but I'm not a V6 expert. My experience is with the 5.7L V8. Most of the systems are common between the two but there are differences with the engine.
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Thanks bro for all the help and information you have gave me now my charger is back on the road again I am so happy thank you