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Support carrier bearing issue RESOLVED! No need to take drive shaft out

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38K views 21 replies 13 participants last post by  Voellerb0276  
#1 ·
Ok so as we all know the dreaded carrier support bearing issue (that dodge still hasn’t recalled). So I had the playing card in the bicycle tire sound for months and had no idea what it was until I saw a YouTube vid with someone w the same problem. I talked to dodge and they wanted 1600$ to REPLACE the WHOLE drive shaft just bc the bearing was “inoperable” due to it being one piece… ridiculous. So I dug into the web and found “JXB Motorsports”. A one man show that builds super quality 2 piece carrier support bearings for multiple makes/models. The 2 piece is crucial bc that’s what makes you not have to take the drive shaft out/ spend crazy $, it just clamps over the shaft. The whole reason there is a noise is bc the rubber that holds the drive shaft deteriorates and leaves a lot of play. I’ll link his site and a pic of what mine looked like before and after the shop put it on. I hope anyone dealing w this issue reads this and avoids getting screwed by dodge! Good luck!
 
#2 ·
#4 ·
I paid $680 for a complete Mopar driveshaft which came fully assembled w/carrier & rubber couplers.
Your dealer is a crook.
 
#5 ·
I never actually went to the dealership but just read everyone saying that was the average price for this timeframe. Plus the driveshafts are on like a 2 month back order. The center bearing they provide apparently goes out every couple years “so I’ve heard”. Hoping this one’s sturdiness holds out
 
#6 ·
Interesting.
 
#8 ·
I’m out here in Southern California but any shop with basic tools and a lift would most likely do the job. They have a video on their site that goes step by step on the install as well as tools required. Yes I bought the part and brought it to them. I’d just send them the video and they can tell you yes or no.
 
#9 ·
Taking the driveshaft out is no big deal. There's another company online that sells the proper replacement bearing for 2015+ for a lot less then that. Don't ask me for the link i don't have it off hand but found it a while back.
 
#12 ·
Image

I was contemplating a $1000 solid aluminum shaft or $800 for a new factory replacement myself. I stumbled upon this gem during a Google search and bought it in a heartbeat!! Took about an hour and a 1/2 to install and it's been rock solid now for months!! I got the optional hard inserts for mine, best $250 I've ever spent!
 
#14 ·
NVM I'm an idiot, it's the same one the OP posted
I think I'm about to buy this too, I just found out that my stock one is toast as well.
 
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#15 ·
Have you noticed excessive noise or vibrations after installing the 2 peace, carrier bearing support? I installed mine and its really loud and vibrates I think the actual bearing might be bad. I spun it. It wasn’t as free as I’d like, but I was hoping it would free up.
 
#20 ·
put the JXB with "street" isolators on my charger....I have a little bit of a rumble below the audible range you feel in your butt, kind of modulates above about 60mph. (if you could actually hear it it would probably be like a whom-whom-whom vs. a continual buzzz)....kind of how it felt before the JXB. not sure if the bearing itself is going, and if it is, what I should replace it with inside the JXB. looks like the ID of the bearing is 30mm, but not sure what the OD should be, since you leave the outer rubber on the JXB, and I'd rather not buy a cheap OEM style replacement just for the bearing (which is probably going to be a cheap bearing)
 
#16 ·
Yo, you know exactly what you’re talking about!!! I just went through this same issue, I myself called my local Dodge, dealership & they wanted to charge me $1600 for a whole new drive shaft. Found out about JXB Performance, spent the $250, problem solved!!!
 
#18 ·
how is the JXB with the standard street inserts? the bearing went bad on my 2011 last year (bearing itself was making a grinding noise, rubber was still OK), and the replacement was an aftermarket one (unsure of the brand, maybe anchor?)....anyhoo, now I've got a driveline vibration, and I put the car up and dropped the heat shield and inspected. the replacement bearing's rubber is ripped about 20-30% around the perimeter. so I'm debating OEM MOPAR (heck, the original lasted 11 years), but MSRP is $372 and "street price" is about $260, or the JXB option. the bearing itself is likely still good, since it's only a year old....any feedback is appreciated
 
#21 ·
@Codym1, thanks for your post. I'm currently dealing with this worn out bushing on my '19 SXT. The rubber is completely torn out.

I'm looking at the same JBX one you posted and from what I understand, you can just jack up the rear end and do the following...

1.) Lower the rear of the exhaust to gain better access.
2.) cut out the old worn out rubber around the bearing.
3.) then use the new two-piece bushing to sandwich the existing bearing and then bolt into place. So no need to remove the driveshaft or dropping the whole exhaust?

I know this thread ia old, but it seems relatively easy to do without the car on a lift and was wondering how it has held up for you.
 
#22 ·
@Jason246 if I may answer your question (as I just replaced my carrier bearing with no car lift). You're exactly correct. Lowering the rear exhaust did help, but I did go back in and inspect the rubber a few weeks afterwards and was able to do it without messing with the exhaust (granted there was less space to work, but it is doable).

Quick tip: When working on it initially and afterwards, I used a piece of wood to prop up the drive shaft in the air by wedging it between the exhaust (assuming you have the dual) and the bottom of the driveshaft.

Replacing the carrier bearing did help with the "card in the wheel" sound, but I still have the grinding/vibrating sound whenever I take my foot off the gas going 35+ mph and when I put my foot back on the gas going 35+mph. It doesn't make the sound as long as I have my foot on the gas, so I'm assuming the bearing itself is the problem now. Looks like I'll be replacing the drive shaft, but have also found threads (on the forum that ends in "s") that do have a tutorial on how to replace the bearing itself if you have a press, which I do not unfortunately. Maybe that'll be my next purchase, or just bite the bullet and have the entire drive shaft replaced and have the carrier bearing that it comes with replaced with the 2 piece design so that I don't end up with the same problem I'm currently in.

Good luck and look forward to hearing how yours goes.