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Underrated

7.3K views 25 replies 12 participants last post by  Charge this  
#1 ·
Afternoon all. I fully believe that all our cars are underrated horsepower and torque wise. This was a common practice by Dodge in the 60's. My basis is the fact that I know cars especially muscle cars.

My previous vehicle was an 06 SRT8 Jeep and I still own a 5.0 Fox Body Mustang which was my highschool car in the 90's and rolled me through several gates as a USAF serviceman. Well its been covered for years awaiting restoration.

My 16 RT has a Borla S type cat back and K&n cai and the thing screams chirping 2nd and 3rd. Underrated. I have yet yo drive a scat pack, 392 or Hellcat. I was more than able to get what I wanted but decided on the RT.

So, I can only imagine what its like to drive the above. So, are we underrated or what. On the horizon is the scat pack 1 pcm for me. Then I think it would do me best to stop. Underrated.
 
#3 ·
it's those 245's they just aren't wide enough. The Scats break loose all the time if they aren't easy on the gas. Even the 392's with the 275's will break loose. Turn off TC completely and you start saying ... Traction? What traction?

Unfortunately my car is back in the shop again... District rep involved, STAR involved, and DriveSRT reps. it's a mess. Think this is my last Dodge and I truly love my car.

Yours is well balanced and has no shortage of power. 370HP/395TQ is nothing to sneeze at.
 
#4 ·
it's those 245's they just aren't wide enough. The Scats break loose all the time if they aren't easy on the gas. Even the 392's with the 275's will break loose. Turn off TC completely and you start saying ... Traction? What traction?

Unfortunately my car is back in the shop again... District rep involved, STAR involved, and DriveSRT reps. it's a mess. Think this is my last Dodge and I truly love my car.

Yours is well balanced and has no shortage of power. 370HP/395TQ is nothing to sneeze at.

I keep hearing that. I love my RT just enough power.
 
#7 ·
The R/T, the perfect compromise.
 
#10 ·
Occasionally I regret not getting a Scat Pack, but then I remember the deal I got and the money I saved. I also think I would have a hard time using a Scat Pack as a daily driver, especially in the mid-west winters.
 
#13 ·
My 2010 RT with R&T pkg, Flowmasters, and K&N CAI, spins the rear 295/30 R22s at will, in 85 degrees, with traction control ON.
With it fully disabled, it's a handful, I don't even bother doing it anymore, I like pulling out in traffic knowing I can punch the gas and not be sliding around like crazy. 395 ft lbs of torque is PLENTY for me. MDS is annoying but autostick takes care of that problem.
 
#14 ·
Geesh, how can you sit around and imagine stuff like this? Roll another one.

My Stock R/T dyno's 360+hp/380+tq at the tires.
 
#26 ·
Not sure why you are coming across with a D**K attitude, my Charger RT has never been on a Dyno - but I don't need one to know it breaks my 22s, 295s loose all day long, with trac control on, so if its got 395ft pds at rear tires, or 300 ft pds, who cares, it puts a smile on my face every time!

As for "roll another one", you might need to roll one to keep your anger in check, sorry if you have a stocker with zero upgrades, and probably needs a tune as well.....not my problem, previous owner put all my mods on, then upgraded, I live in an area where my friends have elevators in the garages at their beach houses, no snow and lots'o dough...so picking up a nicely modded 2010 with 32k miles is possible, muscle cars are just another toy down here in FL.
 
#15 · (Edited)
I think the factory rating is pretty close. My 2013 Daytona has run a best of 13.40@103.75 mph on the original Goodyear F1 tires with the only mod being a JLT cold air intake. I backed it up with a 13.56@102.77 mph so I don’t think it was a fluke. The weather conditions were ideal with high 50’s and good air. When I go to the horsepower calculator http://www.calculator.net/engine-ho...4600&v2weightunit=pound&v2speed=103.75&v2speedunit=mph&calctype=trap&x=118&y=18
(assuming weight of car being 4600 lbs with me in it) the HP is 377 based on a13.40 ET and 400 HP based on the 103.75 mph. I did let the car cool down for 2 hours on purpose once I got to the track because I knew the car has more power when the engine is cold. My best time the year before was a 14.05@99.7 mph on a hot motor.
Image
 
#16 ·
I think the factory rating is pretty close.
I agree. The dyno operator/tuner told me Dodge does not leave a lot of hidden power on the table.
However what the tuner does know other than timing and AFR is how to re-calibrate the power delivery .

The car runs and feels like it gained 25hp. I have no Sport Mode switch but when I use AutoStick that's what happens. However I rarely use it due to how well she runs out normally shifting.

I'm not sure how Dodge does it but if Dodge HP ratings are at the flywheel my tuner basically moved it to the wheels.

He explained the factory power delivery is slower and the shift speeds, firmness and rpm points could be better. I'm very happy and sure he did not want to let on everything he does.

Yes its not a light car and I ignore Camaros and Mustangs. I love driving the car and the minor enhancements are just right.
 
#20 ·
On the horizon is the scat pack 1 pcm for me. Then I think it would do me best to stop. Underrated.
Once you get started...you are guaranteed to never stop..
I've had my vehicle for over 5 years now and I still look for new mods every week : /

Unfortunately my car is back in the shop again... District rep involved, STAR involved, and DriveSRT reps. it's a mess. Think this is my last Dodge and I truly love my car.
What happened?
Mechanical issue or something else at play?
 
#21 ·
It was a major electrical issue that affected all aspects of the vehicles operation, including display failures, safety feature failures, transmission, failures, etc. It was all caused by one wire that was internally corroded. The wire was the voltage sense wire that runs from the PCM to the alternator. It was reporting low voltage and commanding the alternator to increase output, which was not actually the case, the voltage was fine. This forced the alternator to increase to 17+volts and caused all sorts of issues. I ended up getting a 7 year 100k, $0 deductible warranty for my trouble and some free oil changes.
 
#24 ·
It was a single defective wire that was internally corroded. it was literally falling apart within the plastic sheathing. I am going to presume it was an isolated case or it would have already been widespread.